MTFCA Forum

Don’t have timer available. Could someone answer questions in photo? FYI: am going to make insulator and the 4 contacts.[/size]

Don't forget to make the insulators for the threaded posts going through the commutator metal housing.

Some thoughts. I made the race ring from delrin and cut the contacts moon shaped. Easier to cut the contacts from a bar and the ring to imbed the contacts. Connected the contacts and terminals by threads. I got the dimensions by measuring an NOS timer.
Good luck.

I can loan you an original pressed steel script Ford timer but you realize the cast iron & aluminum were slightly different SO which one are you intending on replicating ?

Dimension approx. from a used Ford pressed steel roller timer.


A. contact thickness 0.120"
B. contact length 0.800" contact width 0.400"
C. contact radius ?
D. thread 10-32NF (overall contact + thread length .900")
E. thickness insulator 0.335"
other: contact conical insulator thickness 0.265"

Steve:
The timer Dan posted is the one I want to build new internals.

Dan: I was thinking I could use a 3” pipe and mill segments out of it. However, my timer case is at different location. The radius I could (pipe) use could be 2-1/2” or whatever. I don’t have the old segments handy.

Dan:
The posted measurements are they from the posted pictures? If not where did they come from?
Thanks,
John.

hah wrote: ↑

Tue Feb 11, 2025 9:44 pm

Dan:
The posted measurements are they from the posted pictures? If not where did they come from?
Thanks,
John.

Those measures were made from my used Ford timer in the pictures . Used digital calipers on the parts shown.

The steel in pipes is rather soft. The steel in drawn tubing is likely harder and more consistent. The steel in timer contacts may well be something different again. It would be a shame to start the project with materials which are not up to the demands of the application. Time spent working this out may be time well spent.

Can anyone show some light on the subject?

Allan from down under.

Dan:
Exact measurements taken? Timers wear at different rates. What would you say is the wear factor in your timer internals? I’m trying to build one as if it were brand new. Would a loss of 10%, 20% etc … be a good value of your photo attached?

Not that I am anal about it. I am curious as to the measurements when new and figured if the measurements were available I would build one that way.

Really, rather than asking for insulator thickness and contact radius, knowing the inside diameter of the contact ring would be more helpful, I believe. That's ultimately the dimension you want to control.

Jerry: exactly, when new! Have any idea what the value would be? However, values requested would be needed to complete project.

Addendum: You may/ may not know when you install just the insulation ring, pressing it in there is a lip you need to navigate, slight as it is, that value needs to be accounted for.

There is NO one single right answer to any of those dimensions! Even within the Ford factory, between 1911 and 1927 when that general style was used, the specific dimensions changed slightly several times. It does need to be noted that much of 1912 used a very different timer, required for a very different timing gear cover.
Cast aluminum, cast iron, and a few variations of stamped steel bodies did vary in thickness. That variance results in variations in the thickness of the insulator ring. If the literally more than a hundred after-market makers and models of timers with additional variations are considered? The insulator rings and roller contacts have dozens of variations in dimensions.
Insulator rings and contacts can often be swapped from one variation to another, with some creative effort. However, if you want a specific exact dimension you must first settle on which specific maker and model timer you wish to duplicate.

I guess a serious question is, what is your goal to duplicate here in the first place?

Wayne Sheldon wrote: ↑

Thu Feb 13, 2025 4:53 am

Cast aluminum, cast iron, and a few variations of stamped steel bodies did vary in thickness. That variance results in variations in the thickness of the insulator ring.

I guess a serious question is, what is your goal to duplicate here in the first place?

This is my point exactly, which is why I suggested concentrating only on the inside diameter of the contact ring.

Wayne's question, as to your goal, is also a great one. You've been a bit mysterious as to what you're really trying to do, (unless I missed something above). Making a 100% new timer? Making a new insulator ring & contacts to put in an existing case? Again, forgive me if I missed your intentions in previous posts.

John
From your posts others comments above it appears you are wanting to make parts for a Ford stamped case timer?
In my oinion you can do this two ways. Correctly or half vast?
Photos, hand drawn diagrams and dimensions of a worn out Ford timer are useless.
In my opinion here is the correct way. Get the stamped case timer Factory part number from a Ford parts book, order from the Benson Ford Research center in Dearborn the Record of Change (ROC) card for that part and a copy of latest date drawing for that part cited shown on the ROC card. You will probably be amazed at the ROC number of running changes to this part. Most of these changes were made because of tooling/production process updates or ease of manufacture and usually do not affect part compatibly. The latest date drawing for the part assembly will let you see all the details of the most current parts. Now make a list of every individual part in the complete assembly and order the individual prints for the parts you want to make.
This print ordering can get a bit expensive so speak to someone who has done it and knows how to make it simple/cheaper. It has been a long time since I have order Ford prints and do not know the currents costs.
One more caution. The stamped case for the Ford roller timer is a stamping of two layers of scrap pieces of fender stampings. As with stampings there will be some varaince so case diameter so you are forewarned (by others here) to be careful making the insulated case insert.
I have been involved in reproducng many original parts when working on Model T Ford coils, generators and starters and this recommended approach significantly reduces the guesswork.
Good Luck and hope this helps?
Ron Patterson

The goal is! I have a worn out ford timer for my 26 coupe in which I want to rebuild, as I have the equipment to do so. That’s it!

I don’t want an aftermarket timer.

It was of my opinion someone in this community must have persued this project at one time and could have supplied answers. Although, I have received great suggestions. I am only a simple man trying to solve a simple problem.

As far as Ron’s suggestion. His solution is spot on if I were to start manufacturing the part. I am well aware of the costs associated with obtaining ford diagrams, as I have attempted it in the past.

Again, alls I want is to fix my car and not trying to start a manufacturing process. It’s a hobby not a career.


Thanks,
John.

As Jerry states, you should be concerned about the diameter. Well, anyone have a new aftermarket timer who is willing to take a measurement?
Thanks,
John.