MTFCA Forum

First of all, thanks vendors and part makers. I have a replacement linkage kit between the low band and the clutch shaft. Before I install it, I found play in the clutch pedal and need to know if this is normal. Here, there is no additional load on the low band spring from the clutch pedal being moved forward.

Vernon, your brake pedal has no play before it begins to ramp up on the ramp. The clutch pedal is different. There should be about 1.5" of pedal travel before the pedal starts to ramp up. This 1.5"' free play is what gives you the ability to neutral with your foot without having to pull the handbrake lever back to disengage the clutch.
Before i knew better, I once rebuilt the clutch pedal ramps to take out the wear/play. Only did it once!

Allan from down under

Thanks for sharing your mistake. I could do the same. Even though it has 2-1/2" of travel instead of the 1-1/2", I will leave it alone for now and just assemble the linkage...or so I think.
After turning "the slow-speed adjusting screw, so that the slow-speed band will be fully engaged a couple inches before the pedal reaches the floor boards", I connected the "slow speed connection rod". The cotter pin barely fit in and the linkage was binding against the Bendix cover, while the clevis did not line up with the "clutch control shaft". Basically, I can hardly install the parts, let alone ensure movement.

Is the slow speed shaft jutting out too much to the left? (When fully pressed, there still is about 1/4" shaft exposed.)
Is the slow speed connection rod malformed?

You might be installing that slo-speed linkage backwards - I'll go check the "Bible".

Here is the proper procedure.

Vernon, the new Low speed linkage’s shaped does not have the same length past the radius bend for you to have a lose fit for movement & will bind. You do have it placed correctly with the radius towards the bendix cover. You may need to bend the tang on the pedal a bit inward for more clearance but again past the radius seems to short compared to the original piece. I’d encourage you to pull the low pedal all the way back toward the seat when adjusting your low speed linkage.
Best John

Not backwards...I thought about that too.
Yes, John, the bracket does also bind and does not want to turn down much at all.

Vernon, your linkage is binding on the inside radius, I have taken a file to that area and removed enough material to free things up.
That will give the linkage move lateral movement, perhaps just enough to clear the Bendix cover.
Roger

After sleeping on this and waking at 4am thinking about a possible solution, I could see that the tab on the low shaft would have to bent twice to keep the hole perpendicular with the linkage. However, though it will move the hole to the right, it will also shorten the radius and the amount of throw, when the pedal is pressed. The blue arrow points to a shallower angle which is slightly less rigid. So, this process is just fixing a problem that is wrong elsewhere and does not solve the binding with "the slow speed connecting rod".

"The slow speed connecting rod"'s smooth shank above the threads is not straight either, nor is the inside radius sharp enough. 1) Material can be removed from both sides of the rod and if needed, material welded to the opposite side or 2) perhaps the rod could be bent correctly or 3) start over and make one from a straight rod, cutting two 45s and welding the two pieces together for a sharp 90.

Nobody has mentioned the slow speed shaft. I guess either no one knows or it's OK.

There needs to be a bit of slop in this connection, so seeking a close fit each end is counter intuitive. Because the clutch pedal has to travel sideways when used, having too close a fit between the pedal hole and the bent linkage part will cause binding as the pedal tries to drag the whole linkage assembly sideways. The best solution to this that I have seen was a ball joint rather than the bent L shaped piece. Neat but way too expensive for Henry.

Allan from down under.

The part was not made quite right and I out of frustration did not bother to anneal the metal before attempting to bend it back. Yes, it broke. In locating a fine thread screw, none of them had threads long enough (1-1/4"). I couldn't even find a full thread at three different hardware stores. The hex head did not matter (could have been a button cap) because I cut it off.

This is a go at adding another 1/4" of UNF threads but the die wore out on this job. Other photos will show the same condition.

I got about 1/8". So, came up with another plan to center the clevis on the threads at the proper length.

The ruler is just there for the camera shot but the on-center measurement is 3-3/16" (with the pedal pulled back) but it should be 1/16" short according to instructions. The clevis was turned to the middle of the threads of the screw.

Then the bolt was measured and marked at 3-1/8" for the center of two 45º cuts. I should have subtracted half of 5/16" from that. I then torched and bent the bolt for a sharp 90º, cut a wedge and welded the angle in place. After grinding, I cut the hex head, and drilled the cotter pin hole.

A 5/16" long bolt makes it easy to hold the clevis in place when tightening the set nut.

The bent side is much longer to allow for the bolt to slide through the pedal's counterpart as the pedal walks to the right when engaged. Hopefully, this will minimize binding.

It is so long, however, that I had to remove the Bendix cover for installation room. The bolt does not contact anything to the right, throughout its movement. The washer is just because reasons.

The Bendix cover is then reinstalled before attaching the linkage to the clutch shaft.

It works. All the gears work as tested on jack stands. Yesterday we drove the car. Tonight I tightened the bands some more and she stopped with her own brakes.

Excellent tutorial Vern ! Good pictures too ! You’re quite the problem solver.

The same problem with a none-to-sharp bend can occur in carburetor linkages, especially with the thick brass levers on the throttle plate shaft. I have found brazing a washer to the back side of the bend up against the shaft of the rod keeps the rod straight in the arm and takes out the inside radius of the bend.

Allan from down under.