MTFCA Forum

We installed an oil filter on the hogshead with an extra gasket. But the screws were 3/8" length and it has been a chore to get them threaded in the holes every time while I was upgrading the springs, tightening the bands, and reworking the pedals. So, I got some 1/2" replacements and was wondering if anyone else replaced these screws when adding an oil filter?

Sure did - original not enough length to grab the additional thickness of all combined !

Are those screws are 1/4 X 20 thread?

The originals do vary in length. The little shorties are only good enough for the cover, but I do not use them on an alloy hsgshead. Longer ones can be almost 3/4" long. I dig through my stash and use those. You can fit the filter plate and gasket, and the starter cable bracket under those.

Allan from down under.

If Allen is driving a right hand drive car, it will be different because two adjustment screws and nuts are on the left and one on the right. Opposite the American car. The screws for the plate on top should all be longer except the one on the left middle. That one must be shorter because of the low cam is on the inside. I start one of the screws through both the oil screen plate and the inspection cover. Then I can use it as a pivot point to get the others started. Works well for me.
Norm

No Kent, they are 5/16-18x1/2" slotted round head machine screws.
Since you are a member, if you need 6 for yourself, I can mail them to you.

varmint wrote: ↑

Mon Mar 03, 2025 9:22 pm

No Kent, they are 5/16-18x1/2" slotted round head machine screws.
Since you are a member, if you need 6 for yourself, I can mail them to you.

Thank you Vernon, I sent you an email reply.

Ace hardware has them. Pretty common.

I was a bad boy. First I used longer slot-head screws but then I got tired of dropping my screwdriver when it slipped out of the slots and replaced the slot-head screws with socket head (allen). Now I use my battery powered wrench driver with an extension to spin them off and start them back on. Works great! Easier on my arthritis.

Oldav8tor wrote: ↑

Tue Mar 04, 2025 6:52 pm

I was a bad boy. First I used longer slot-head screws but then I got tired of dropping my screwdriver when it slipped out of the slots and replaced the slot-head screws with socket head (allen). Now I use my battery powered wrench driver with an extension to spin them off and start them back on. Works great! Easier on my arthritis.

DON’T DO IT ! The screws are slotted head so that you can’t get too much torque on them and you don’t get them too tight. If you use hex head or socket head screws you can get them tight enough to wipe out the threads. Especially if you use a machine to torque them. The transmission cover is grey cast iron and fragile… (Same deal with the starter screws)

Sounds like a good idea to me.
I really think anybody who uses a battery powered screw gun or driver has sense enough to not torque them down enough to strip the threads. If you could do it with a battery gun it’s a heck of a screw gun! The screw gun I have has settings on it to limit how tight you it can go. But these days some guys would use an air impact wrench to “really get on it” to tighten them down or any other thing similar.

When I work on my 3 T’s I mostly use modern hand tools and don’t use T hand wrench’s for the simple reason they work better. I hope thats not to bad of a thing.

RE: DON'T DO IT.

If I use a power tool, I turn the screws on part way, not even to the point the head contacts the cover - finish with a T-handle. I'm careful not to overdo it, turning them no tighter than I would using a screw driver. Sometimes I just use the T handle. I have a 1/8th inch thick silicone gasket under the cover that takes up some of the pressure. Unfortunately, these days if I do too much tool-twisting I end up with hand cramps later. Using a power wrench or screwdriver allows me to keep "doing" without paying too big a price.

Steve,
I may add a layer of silicone, as you suggest, to my gaskets because they leak oil in an ugly way. All the more reason for longer screws.

I use silicone on the lid to "glue" the gasket to it. Then I do the same on the under side of the gasket, Before the lid is screwed on I smear the trans cover with grease,. Then, when the lid is screwed on, the silicone makes the usual seal, but the grease allows the lid to be removed without fuss, to be reinstalled easily later on, with the original gasket still in place.

Allan from down under.