MTFCA Forum

I replaced the fan hub in my '26 Runabout. I installed new bushings and had to ream (very slightly) to get the used shaft in. It took a bit of a push to get the unworn center section of the shaft to go past the bushing. It seemed to be an appropriate fit, once in place. I rubbed grease into the felt washer but the 10W-30 oil slung out quickly. I replaced it with 80W-90 gear oil and it is still coming out.
Is a new shaft my solution? An additional washer? Or should I pony up for a ball bearing hub and call it a day? I notice that the belt is running against the front flange of the hub pulley.

Mike

The stock fan hubs are always going to leak oil. The felt is not sufficient to keep the oil inside the hub. I don't fill the hub fully, but just put in a little bit every few tanks of gas. I don't have too much leaking out and the bushings are holding up just fine. If you get tired of the mess, the modern ones are a good solution, just ugly.

Stephen

The original set up will hold oil when everything is right. Replacing the bushings and not replacing a worn shaft is problematic. I would suggest rebushing it and replacing the shaft, the fan blade gasket, and the felt seal and try again.

It might also be beneficial to use chainsaw bar oil. It is specially tacky and tends to hang about much longer.

Allan from down under.

The convex shaped hub is designed to keep the belt centered on top of the hump of the hub. If the belt is riding toward the front of the hub, the front bushing is probably worn, causing the hub to tilt down. The oil you use needs to be thin enough to flow from the reservoir into the center hole in the shaft, through the tube in the center of the shaft and out through the hole into the gap between the bushings. A thick grease will only clog the oil hole. Using flowable oil should not leak if the gaskets and felt are fresh and the shaft is a close fit within the bushings. You can get fan rebuild parts from the antique auto parts suppliers.

If a rebushed fan, with a new shaft, results in the fan belt running to the front of the pulley, the arm is likely bent somewhat. Remove it and set it in a vice at the approximate angle at which it is fitted. Then fit a large crescent type wrench over the shaft boss and give it a heave directly upwards. You may have to repeat this to get complete success.

Do not try to do this on the car. You run the risk of breaking the casting on the timing cover. Do not make the bend in line with the shaft. That will induce a twist in the belt.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.

Thanks everyone for the input. The bushings are new, as I stated in my original post, with about 5 or 6 hours of run time. It is hard for me to imagine that there is enough wear to cause the belt to run off center but I will check it out.
Allan, I have the late style fan bracket that is part of the upper water neck, so no arm to bend.
Thanks again.

Mike

Too much fore and aft play in the hub will allow oil to leak. Irregular or excessive wear of the pulley faces can cause the belt to run against the pulley flange. A problem with the belt itself also could. If the belt ran on a misaligned pulley, it may have irregular wear.

I installed the Aluminum ball-bearing pulley setup from Lang's. It's on the car and works beautifully. No more oil all over the place! I still have the old setup which the car's next owner can reinstall if he/she wants to. It was some of the best money that I have spent on my T.

I use 140 grade oil in my fan, and it does not leak.

New belt and a nice crown on the pulley. Im leaning toward the ball bearing setup. My Granddaughter will have the car someday and it will be one less thing to go wrong for her.

Thanks again everyone.

Mike

Remember to leave the fan belt loose- no need to tighten it like a modern car.