MTFCA Forum

Hi All,
I’m still confused as to how the body blocks sit in the channels under my 27 touring. Does the rabbitted cutout face up or down? Do the blocks attach to the body before dropping the body? Something so simple seems confusing. I didn't take this part of the car apart so there was no photo of the originals. I’ve searched past posts and can only get a few fuzzy photos that really don’t show what I’m looking for. Your help is appreciated.

Brent if you notice there are some areas where there are 3/16" holes where the body bolts mount on the frame on the inside of the subframe. There is also some up toward the front under the the floor board channels for sheet metal screws to assist in the attachment of the splash aprons. Hope this helps.., I used popular for these.

Hank

Brent,

The "notch" goes up and out to clear the rivet heads fastening the body cross members to the body frame rails.
They are held in the body with a flat head wood screw down from the top into the blocks.
Underneath the splash apron screws with washers to the blocks to secure the aprons.

Here is the hardware list off of my original car:
Model T Ford Early 26 touring body bolts

Qty Thread Length Head
7/16-20 Hex Nut 11/16" Wrench
7/16 Lock Washer
7/16 Flat Wash 1 1/8"
2 3/8-16 Hex Nut 11/16" Wrench
2 3/8 Lock Washer
2 7/16-20 3.5 Hex
2 7/16-20 2.25 Hex
2 7/16-20 1 Hex Front
2 3/8-16 2.125 Carriage Bolt Second

6 1/4-20 1/2" Square Nuts
6 1/4" Lock Washer
6 1/4" Flat Washer 3/4"
6 1/4-20 1/2 Round Slotted

4 #12 1" Slotted Flat Head Wood Screw Splash Apron
4 1/4" Flat Washer 3/4"

Brent

This older post of mine has photos of blocks in place.


viewtopic.php?t=25552

Thanks all for your help!

Brent, if it would help (even though it's a drive) you are welcome to crawl under my '26 Touring to look at the placement of the blocks or I can take some photos if you want specific angles. I think mine is "fairly accurate."
Eric

Thanks all. I think I have it figured out.
I’m just still not sure how they are attached to the body so that they stay in place while we lift the body.
Are they screwed to the rails in some way?
I can’t find any holes where wood screws would attach them to the body prior to installing body in chassis.

By 27 guess perhaps no screw holes in subframe, so just insert the blocks and body bolts on the body to frame brackets will secure the blocks.

On this early 26 runabout the blocks were screwed to the subframe channels.
And use screws to secure the splash shield edges to the blocks to reduce the gaps and prevent rattle.

On the early '26 touring the blocks are screwed Into the subframe / crossmember with 1 wood screw from the top.
The screw is located just outside the body bolt hole and just inside the rivet holes.
It could easily be mistaken for a rivet hole since it is right there next to the rivets.
The screw goes into the thicker (non rabbeted) part of the block to hold it securly.

Here is a picture or the holding screw on my original early '26 touring

Thanks Mike,
My 27 does not have screw holes.
Is that a carriage bolt for the mounting bolt?
Thanks so much for all your info!
Brent

While my early '26 touring made it to me quite original and unrestored without excessive wear there are a few things that make you think.
And not just how it survived being in a barn that collapsed on it.
Only body bolts #2 on both sides are 3/8 carriage bolts with washers. The rest are all the expected 7/16-20 bolts.
I can not prove for sure if they belong or not but I put them back when I lifted the body to fix the engine years ago.
Being a just before Christmas car an assembly line worker may have thrown them in for an easy alignment.
So Yes, it has carriage bolts in the front passenger heel area and has had them for a very long time.