MTFCA Forum

On a 19 what should the axle torque be?

If you're talking about the rear wheel retaining nut, I torque mine to 75 foot-pounds, then tighter as needed to get the cotter pin hole to line up with one of the windows in the castle nut.

Will: As in Engine Torque delivered to each rear wheel? As in rear Hub nut Torque to secure wheel to axle?

Sorry, The garage is getting a bit to warm and I guess I'm not thinking clearly. Time to call it a day. , Yes I did mean the axle nut torque. Its already 97 degrees outside and even though I do have a single air conditioning vent in the garage it just cant keep up with the outside air coming in through outside edges of the garage door. I will finish this tomorrow morning.

I go a little higher, 90 then to next slot to line up the hole. Never back off on a cottered nut. Check a couple of times after that after the car has been driven. More often than not you will need to re-torque the nut.
If the next slot is way off, try a different nut or sand a bit off the bottom. Sandpaper on a flat surface works great.

Humidity as well as heat makes the A/C work harder, so you are dealing with extreme conditions. You might consider improving the garage door and adding a window unit type A/C to the garage area for use only when you are working in the garage.

Didn't Ford offer dealers a special axle nut wrench about 2 feet long? I'd guess that would translate to about 100 ft lbs.

Yes, they did - I can post a photo later today - mine was nickel plated as are some of my other "factory" wrenches.

I agree with Mar on the 75# torque. I recheck after a short drive, especially if you are using shims. Axle nuts should also be part of your spring checkup or before a long tour like a national tour.


Andy

Thanks guys, I will take them to 75 tomorrow morning. It seems I'm driving it more this summer than I used to. There is a group of us that go to assisted living centers around my county to give car shows for those that cant get out. Used to be we only did this in the winter but the phone has been ringing off the hook for us to come. I'm the oldest car that goes, The others are 40'50'60' and 70 area cars. Its a little rough in this crazy heat but once I get there I spend most of my time inside. Last week I got caught in a rain shower and I had a heck of a time drying out the ignition so she would run right. I think I'm going to cover the hood with something on the next show. Down here you never know if your going to get wet. A shower can pop up out of nowhere.

For your viewing pleasure - it's approx. 20" in length.

The torque on the axle nut is only part of the mix. It is probably more important to make sure that the axle taper is free of any damage and burrs. Likewise the bore in the hub. Then if the key is snug in the keyway, you are set to go. When the axle nut is drawn up it then has the best chance of maintaining "drive" on the taper and key. Applying excessive tension on the nut to make a poor taper assembly hold is a recipe for a stripped axle thread.

Allan from down under.

Allan wrote: ↑

Tue Jul 29, 2025 7:46 pm

The torque on the axle nut is only part of the mix. It is probably more important to make sure that the axle taper is free of any damage and burrs. Likewise the bore in the hub. Then if the key is snug in the keyway, you are set to go.

I would agree with that. The axle/hub taper, if not perfectly matched, will result in further wear, and possibly a crystalised and broken axle. Furthermore, it is undesirable that the drive should be transmitted through the Woodruff key. A good fit between the hub and axle will be such that it's possible to drive the car without the Woodruff key in position, and there will be quite some resistance in removing the hub from the axle. A hub which comes off without having to use a wheel puller is a worry. And definitely no shims. To answer the question, I tighten to 100 ft. lbs.

A better answer might be to lap the axle & wheel hub.

JohnH wrote: ↑

Tue Jul 29, 2025 9:34 pm

Allan wrote: ↑

Tue Jul 29, 2025 7:46 pm

The torque on the axle nut is only part of the mix. It is probably more important to make sure that the axle taper is free of any damage and burrs. Likewise the bore in the hub. Then if the key is snug in the keyway, you are set to go.

... it is undesirable that the drive should be transmitted through the Woodruff key. A good fit between the hub and axle will be such that it's possible to drive the car without the Woodruff key in position...

FWIW, that's not a woodruff key.

Steve, I like your display. Some day when I move back north I'm hoping to have a larger garage and I want to set up a board like yours with all my specialized Ford tools. Thank again everyone for your help.

20" wrench, 165 lb mechanic....

I'm surprised that the rear axle nut "Z" wrench is open-end.

My father has a TT rear axle nut Z wrench and it is box-end. It also has a round handle which is easier on the hands.

Thanks Erik - I'll go check the numbers - that could be the rear perch nut - I have more !

The main bolts are about 80 foot pounds and they are a lot smaller than the axle threads. 75# in my opinion is too little.