MTFCA Forum

How does the internal spring loaded “plunger” that makes contact with the bottom of the bulb come out of the light housing. I need to get it apart to1) replace the broken off lever that you slide to turn the light on. 2) replace the old wiring. 3) get the housing replated. Any help would be appreciated, PLUS, does anyone have an old unusable munched up light that that little lever could be harvested from I’m looking for one.

David, I have taken many dash lights apart to rewire them. A single contact pigtail (Snyders' A-13412/13 works perfectly.) is all you need. As for the lever, they're harder to come by, but you might get lucky. If I were closer to my parts (140 mile trip, one way) I'd check my stash. As Steve Jelf said, "they're all the same", as long as they are original Ford. As for plating the housing, I'm not sure any were nickle plated from Ford, although I have a light that is. I don't know that it came from Ford that way. I also have an NOS dash light and the only thing nickle plated on it is the lever.

To repair or replace the wire, you take it apart, first un-thread the switch handle.

Then with care, lift up the two tabs on the backside, that allows the spring loaded plunger to get free.

Reverse to install the spring, the hollow plunger, and the wire goes thru. When replacing the button insulator, be sure to insulate the solder joint on the back side as the plunger is ground and you don't want contact there. The switch handle is fitted to the plunger, and when you lift the switch handle, the plunger is pushed by the spring to force the button against the bulb, completing the circuit.

ModelTWoods wrote: ↑

Wed Aug 20, 2025 5:47 pm

As for plating the housing, I'm not sure any were nickle plated from Ford, although I have a light that is. I don't know that it came from Ford that way. I also have an NOS dash light and the only thing nickle plated on it is the lever.

The early Ford accessory dash lamps were indeed black finished to match the black ignition panel.

Then with the Improved Ford, '26-'27, the dash lamp and cap were nickel plated to match the nickel plated ignition panel.

Great tutorial, Dan !

If I remember correctly, a WW II vintage Willys or Ford jeep used a similar dash light to a Ford supplied, Model T era, dash light.

The big difference is that the jeep version came in olive drab.

Happy hunting.

Mike "modeltspaz" Spaziano.

Dan, Thanks for the info. Unfortunately, the light I have is built a little different than your pic. First off, this is on a Canadian "T". It is a 1926, so should be plated. This has NO metal tabs as you explain. The thin reinforcement plate you show has the points where the screws go through clipped off. On my light it is the exact shape as the flange and the screws go through both the flange and reinforcement plate. I had someone suggest trying to press the bulb socket from the front, hoping the socket is a friction fit in the housing. I've got to turn down a rod to fit the lip of the socket to see if that works. I guess it's either going to work or crush the socket.

Mike, I checked out the Jeep lights, and yes, they are a close match. They don't have an on / off switch though.

David

Seems the plate is held in the housing with those circular like upsets, like small rivets. You might try to carefully pry the plate off the housing. That may free the internal spring and socket.

Going back together some sort of fasteners will be needed, as the spring behind the cup and bulb contact exerts some force. Maybe small Pop Rivets may work, have used them to mount the metal stop stencil and glass lens to Ford ‘26-‘27 accessory stop/tail lamp rim. Had to slightly overdrill the hole of the Pop Rivet to allow the retaining screw to pass.