MTFCA Forum

I went to tighten my hand brake because it has too much play in it. I watched a video of a picturesque Australian performing this task. He took out the pin, loosened the round cyllinder-screwy thing, then adjusted the nut so he could rotate the yoke on the end. But my cylinder thing is both frozen in place and just about fully retarded. Im looking for a solution. I was thinking to purchase a blow torch, loosen the screwy thing with it, then cut down the screwy thing so I'd have more adjustment room on the rod- but I figure I'd better get some advice here first. Thanks!

advice: never handle power tools without calling 911 first

We need to identify the screwy thing first. Are you talking about emergency brake rods and the threads at the end of them that the clevis and nut are on?

I am assuming your referencing the hand brake rods not the clutch & not the slow speed clevis attached to the Clutch Pedal
Your description makes it sound like the brake rod is to long if you need to cut off the end in the clevis (screwy thing ?) for adjusting.
The parts book indicates left and right rod. The rods also have a bend to clear the radius rod. Your rod may have lost the bend making it longer.
To loosen the clevis, remove the rods, clean the threads you can get at, put penetrating oil on the nut & clevis. Be patient may take several application & a few days. If you need heat & have a gas stove, send your wife out on an errand......

First, remove the entire brake rod - if have access to a torch, heat up the clevis and let cool - it will loosen right up - same with the nut. You can also thread more of the rod, if needed with a 5/16 fine thread die.

If you don’t have a torch an induction heater may be a been choice for you.
Might be easier to use and safer.

What "Tillie the Touring" failed to mention, among other things, is what year "Tillie" happens to be. If Tillie is an Improved Model with a big drum rear end, there may be lined brake shoes in the drums. There may even be accessory lined shoes on an earlier rear end.

If the emergency brake shoes are lined, it may be a case of worn emergency brake linings. Shortening the brake rods may be just a band-aid fix. If you have a big drum rear, check the linings too.

Something that would benefit all of us is to use proper terminology!

Be sure that you don't get them too tight. The lever also puts the car in neutral and should be in neutral with the lever approximately straight up. Then when you pull it back it should go a few notches before it applies the parking brake. Otherwise you will not be able to use the neutral with the lever. It is actually much better to use the lever to hold in neutral when waiting at a signal because the foot is unstable and might be slipping the low drum or the clutch disks, but the pedal will be set for the best neutral position.'
Also if the adjustment is too long, it will prevent you from going into high gear with the lever all the way forward.
Norm

Start with a look @ the service manual. Get the part names correct.
After reading the OP several times, I have no idea what the problem or area is that needs a fixin.

The later clevises are rolled steel, with a seam along them. Attention with a hammer around the outside of the clevis, as well as heat, should free them up. Failing that a sharp chisel can be used on the seam to open up the clevis a tad.
I agree, get your terminology up to speed will get you more accurate advice.

Allan from down under.