MTFCA Forum

I’m looking for some advice on how to properly repair the neck on my 1926 Depot Hack radiator.

The neck originally cracked about a year ago. I wasn’t able to find anyone locally who felt confident making the repair without risking discoloration to the chrome-plated neck. As a last resort, I tried JB Weld (high heat) — cleaned everything thoroughly and applied a thick coat. It held for a little while with local driving, but after an afternoon giving friends and family rides, it broke down and I had to remove the neck again.

At this point, I’d like to get it fixed the right way.

Does anyone know of a reliable contact in Western PA (or surrounding areas) who could do this repair?

I’ll also be at Hershey and could bring the whole radiator with me — either to have it fixed there or to leave with someone to repair and return.

Photos are attached below. Thanks in advance for any leads or advice!

Proper repair is "solder", and it was a very easy fix prior to application of epoxy...now it's going to be a pisser to adequately remove all of the epoxy and get a good solid joint. It can be done, but it's too bad you have to.

I've done a number of these repairs and you have to work very hard to discolor chrome when you only need barely over 361F to get eutectic solder to flow. RMA flux and 400F with a clean surface and you'd have a beautiful flowed joint. Propane, MAPP, or a soft flame on Acetylene/Air and you're done.

It takes over 1000F to discolor chrome, so I'd look for a different expert in the future if it was their plan to lay that kind of heat into a radiator.

Last step is to put the motometer on the shelf and avoid future repairs altogether.

Finally, looking past your present conundrum, it looks like you have a very nicely done car...Kudos to you for that

I/ve run motometers on all my T's with no problems. important to get the neck built up to the point where the motometer faces the right direction without over tightening. A plumbing rubber drain washer works very well or several pieces of gasket paper built up just enough so it is tight when facing the right direction without twisting very hard.
Norm

Yours is not an original Ford radiator, on which the neck was first crimped to the top panel, and then soldered. The repop radiators rely solely on the solder joint.
It is not a difficult repair to do at home if you have anyone who has done some soldering. The two mating surfaces need to be cleaned thoroughly and then tinned with solder. Sit the neck in position and then flow additional solder around the neck. it does look to be chrome plated rather than original nickel, so there is little chance of damaging the plating. Even so, any little damage is not likely to show above the radiator shell around the neck.

Allan from down under.