MTFCA Forum

A few weeks ago it was discovered that the laurel mountain forge stain supply could no longer be available.
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=49916

I did a search for possible gun refinishing supplies that had it in stock. This is the only one that I found. They have it in stock except for maple. I just ordered a bottle since I still have a dash to do. I have no connection with the business.

https://www.dixiegunworks.com/index/pag ... Wood+Stain

Woo hoo! Thanks Mike. I just ordered a bottle. I really like how it looks on the 1911 that I restored, and now the 1914 T that I am restoring will have a firewall that looks as nice.

Well, I tried ordering it from Dixie and they are out of stock on Cherry...

They said that they placed another order, but I've asked when they expect to actually get it back in stock.

I wonder if the red keda dye is the same ?
Mix with some alcohol base…

An article in a late 1950s HCCA journal gave this recipe for staining dashboards:

“Mix artists’ tube oil paint Alizarin Crimson into a 50/50 mixture of spar varnish and turpentine.”

The result is very acceptable and indistinguishable from the Laurel Mt. stain. Be sure to avoid water miscible paint, and “student grade” color.

Rich P. Bingham wrote: ↑

Sun Oct 12, 2025 11:26 am

An article in a late 1950s HCCA journal gave this recipe for staining dashboards:

“Mix artists’ tube oil paint Alizarin Crimson into a 50/50 mixture of spar varnish and turpentine.”

The result is very acceptable and indistinguishable from the Laurel Mt. stain. Be sure to avoid water miscible paint, and “student grade” color.

So would I make a 50/50 varnish and turpentine mix, and add the Crimson paint until it looks "red enough" while still having a stain level of thinness?

NealW wrote: ↑

Mon Oct 13, 2025 6:24 pm

So would I make a 50/50 varnish and turpentine mix, and add the Crimson paint until it looks "red enough" while still having a stain level of thinness?

Pretty much. The tube color will have the consistency of toothpaste. A little troublesome to work into the varnish mix. It doesn’t take much stain to do your dash and maybe the coil box. A tube of artists’ oil color will likely be 30cc or so, if your turps/varnish mix is 8 oz., I would use the whole tube. Alizarin Crimson is very transparent, it would be best for the stain mix to have a heavy pigment load.

The stain used must be compatible with whatever finish you use. I mix the stain into the finish coat material and do a trial coat on scrap material. If it is not dark enough, either try a second coat, probably essential anyway to get a good finish, or add more stain to the mix. Mixing the stain in the finish product gives you way better control of the finished colour intensity than staining the timber first. It also makes for a much more even colour over the whole panel

Allan from down under.

I too have use Laurel Mountain Forge Stain on gunstocks and loved it. Too bad their gone.
I am also going to be staining an early dash. I have been looking at General Finishes brand stains and see some that have promise.

Dodge wrote: ↑

Tue Oct 14, 2025 5:25 am

I too have use Laurel Mountain Forge Stain on gunstocks and loved it. Too bad their gone.
I am also going to be staining an early dash. I have been looking at General Finishes brand stains and see some that have promise.

Which General FInishes colored stain are you considering?

There is a warm cherry and a black cherry. I figure if the warm cherry isn't dark enough you could mix a little of the black cherry in.
These are oil based.
There is a water based stain called empire red that looks good. I may start there as it is a lot less than the oil based ones.

Dodge wrote: ↑

Tue Oct 14, 2025 2:57 pm

There is a warm cherry and a black cherry . . .
These are oil based.
There is a water based stain . . .

There is a reason for the cost difference. Generally, alcohol (water-based) stains are dyes and tend to be fugitive (not very light-fast). Oil stains are generally pigmented and will be less prone to fade. Stains intended for furniture finishes will not give as good service as a pigmented stain such as Laurel Mountain.

Might look for a M.L. Campbell (a Sherwin Williams owned brand) distributor or a cabinet shop that uses their products.
The stain line is called "Woodsong II"
One WIPING stain color they offer and is standard/stock is their "Rich Cherry" stain.
They also offer a line of solvent based dyes called Microton which has a red, and a Cordorvan which could be compatible to tone or tint your prefered coating.

They also offer waterborne options as well.

They use to have a color chart with oak, maple and cherry veneers finished.

The suggested colors will not show until a top coat is applied as they are dye based.

Just received my order. Sorry for those who were unable to get one. If I find some more I’ll let you know.