MTFCA Forum

I am getting to the point (at incredibly long last) where I am actually going to be assembling the rolling chassis for my 26 speedster. A while back I fitted all the parts for the rear axle, but there were some things still to do to the drop brackets that had to be completed before I could assemble everything. I will be posting some more details as things go together so folks can see the pretty unique setup I made to drop the axle and mount the Rocky Mountan brakes.

Anyway, the one thing still to do was clear the old oil and crud out of the axle tubes. To do this I soaked the inside of the tubes with WD40 then scrubbed them using a cut off bottle brush that I melted onto the end of a 1/4 inch steel rod then stuck into a drill. After scrubbing the inside of the tube, I put rags over the brush and used the drill to run them up and down the tube. This did a great job of cleaning out all the gunk and old oil. There was also a lot of metal flakes, which is not surprising. I plan to keep washing things down with WD and wiping the tube out till I stop getting flakes out. It would be a shame to leave them in and install all new parts.

Forget the WD40 and just use mineral spirits or paint thinner. A wadded up scotch brite pad on a metal rod works well also on a drill motor. Finish up with Industrial Purple and hot water.

I cleaned my axle tubes by pushing a big ball of steel wool soaked in parts cleaner through with a broomstick multiple times. That worked well.

I cheated. My engine machinist put them through his hot tank. No extra work, no extra cleaning materials, absolutely clean in all the nooks and crannies and ready for assembly. I learned this trick when assembling 1912 diff centre castings to the axle tubes and having to get them clean and dry for sealing the joints.
Allan from down under.

This tool or some sort may help. Tied rags in the middle of a rope could also be of use.

Hot tank is the way to go if you have one available. It has gotten a bit pricey nowadays unless you have a friend with one or a kind machine shop owner. Hot tanks were made for Model T parts and they do a great job removing all the tarred up, dried out, gooey messed up stuff. Worth the money.

Paying attention to the ideas here as I am going to rebuild the rear axle and drive shaft on my Grandfathers T this winter.

In my personal opinion, Dan McEachern's method is easy, cheap, and works well (at least for those who don't have access to a hot tank).

Hot tank is the way. My shop runs them for me. Best money spent. No mess no fuss and clean inside out.

I've used a toilet brush attached to a pipe. Used it with paint thinner followed by a pressure wash with soap and water using a hose and spray nozzle. Worked well for me many times. I like Dan's suggestion using Industrial Purle and hot water as a final wash. It's really good stuff!

I've used a toilet brush attached to a pipe for RE housings Some fot torque tubes but you need a bottle brush fot the font end.
Used it with paint thinner followed by a pressure wash with soap and water using a hose and spray nozzle. Worked well for me. I like Dan's suggestion using Industrial Purle and hot water as a final wash. It's really good stuff!

First pass - Car Wash with their doors down
Hot water & pressure wash

Years ago, I figured that I needed to clean out my axle tubes on my Ruxtell that I wanted to have rebuilt. So, I decided to send them to the local powder coater and have them put them in his hot tank that I later found out that he didn't have.

He charged me about $50-$60 of early 2000s money dollars for basically nothing. Live and learn I suppose. Got them home and shined a flashlight down the tube and literally saw chunks of debris still in the tubes. So I to got thinking, how am I going to clean out these tubes myself without a hot tank? Having spent a short amount of time working in the plumbing supply business, I had knowledge of a device known as a Dynamite, or "Jim" expanding pipe plug. They come in various sizes, so I bought one that would fit the axle tube.

Next, I went to a store that sold janitorial supplies and purchased a product called Zep Orange Clean. Took a gallon of that, plugged the inner end of tube and stood the axle tube up in a pan large enough to catch any spillage that might leak out while the tube was soaking.

I let the tube soak for several days. When I went back to check, there was no sign of a leak. So, at this point, I took a large plastic funnel and placed it in the opening of the empty bottle of cleaner. I then placed a large drip coffee maker filter in the funnel to filter out the crud from the used cleaner so that I could reuse it for the second tube. I was amazed at the amount of sliver crud that came out of that tube. The axle tube was now as clean as new. I then threw the used filter in the trash.

I didn't need to do any scrubbing or buy any brushes or special tools, save for the Jim pug which was about $6.00 from Home Depot. I put the solution in the tubes cold and when I was through with the solution I poured it down the drain. It's a citrus based liquid. I wish I had thought of this before I blew $60 for nothing.

Use any solvent for oil-based residue in an axle tube or d.s. tube (kerosene, paint thinner, Stoddard solvent, etc.). Put a couple of gallons in a pail. Attach a toilet brush to a long handle. Scrub out the gunk.

As others have said, a toilet brush attached to a broomstick works well for scrubbing.

I also tried Mike’s method of plugging one end and letting solvent sit inside.

What seemed to work best for me was Simple Green and water.

I remember Stan said once he would build a fire and set the housing in the fire standing on end and burn them clean.

They tubes are very clean now but I am planning on finishing up with some soap and hot water to get the last of the metal flakes out. I would do it outside with a hose from the tap, but it’s about 10 degrees f at the moment. Since they are not greasy, maybe I could take them to the car wash and spray out the inside of the tube with the wand.

Steve and I do about the same thing.

Home Depot bucket with about 6 inches of kerosene. Put housing in bucket.
Attach a brush to a pole and pretend I am making butter in a butter churn.

Final rinse with some clean kerosene.