MTFCA Forum

As I'm working on my wheels things keep getting deeper and deeper. Can somebody give me a little direction on the front hub assembly?

As far as parts numbers and drawings go via this site I only find reference to wire wheels. Not sure if the parts I'm talking about are interchangeable or not but I have wood wheels.

Front wheel inner CUP:

Modern neoprene seal:

Inner roller bearing:

Outer CUP:

Just guessing here so I sorry for sounding like a fool but: it appeared to me that the inner roller bearing was very sloppy against the seal so I took it out. As I was cleaning things up to get a better look the bearing came apart in my hands. I've never seen that before with anything modern. Those bearing don't come in a Assembly Required kind of way do they? I think it's shot and I need a new one. As a result I thought I would drive out the Inner CUP as well since they mate. It looks perfect but I don't know.

QUESTION 1. If the bearing is not supposed to fall apart then I need a new neoprene seal and bearing and should be able to re-use the Inner CUP???
QUESTION 2. The outer CUP also looks good and the bearing acts more like what I'm used to seeing. That and due to the cost of a new one it's going to have to suffice. Seems OK to me. Am I nuts??

I can see where there's a good seal on the inner shaft but the only think from stopping the bearing grease from leaking via the outer is the hub cap. Is that correct?

QUESTION3. Once I'm finally ready to re-assemble do I just pack the bearings like normal and fill the entire hub with grease?

Thanks a million guys! Darren

Darren,

Roller bearings are NOT supposed to disassemble themselves as you have shown. Looking at the cage, I see a LOT of wear. It would appear, the wheel was operated for a long time being loose on the spindle.

I recommend you replace BOTH bearings/cups, and seal in that wheel. Then, be sure to check the other side to ensure good conditions. You may have to replace all 4 bearings and cups.

Good Luck

Like Terry said - No Bueno

also looks like a ding or crack in hub outside/beyond the outer race (?)

All races/bearings should be replaced from what I see (cry once and get it over with or be plagued with trouble)

also see grooves in the ID of the outer hub casting looks like some sort of interference with threads on the spindle? Show a picture of the condition of the spindle if possible

use great caution when removing the outer race as cocking it even a little can stress or crack the casting - less so on your later casting but is a real concern for folks with earlier/thinner castings...if you encounter trouble punching out, running a bead of weld fully around the circumference of the bearing face will almost certainly shrink it enough to fall out or punch out easily.

What you are finding regarding issues with this car are commonly found faults and you are not suffering from anything most of us have not already experienced. It's part of the process, unfortunately. I typically advise prospective buyers of running as-is cars to plan on spending at least an additional $1000 dollars on the car to bring it up to reasonably safe and trouble-free running. I'm rarely proven wrong on that advice.

Darren, When you pulled the large race did it just fall out or did you have to drive it out? If it was a loose fit the hub is more than likely worn out and you should seek out a better one. Jim

Another question :
Before you removed the cotter pin and unscrewed the large nut did the hub and wheel assembly feel a little loose? Lack of maintenance and checks may have left the wheel assembly loose and helped to wear out the bearings and cups. The large nut needs to be just tight enough to hold the wheel snugly in place with no or very little wobble. Properly tightened the wheel should turn but not spin totally free.

It is not good practice to install a new bearing race on a used cup. Replace both.

Allan from down under.

Thanks everyone for the advice. Anyone looking for a kidney? I may have to sell one of mine if I keep buying parts

Order inner and outer bearings, races, and seals from www.rockauto.com
They usually have all the parts and they have the best prices.

I am sorry I do not have all the order #'s for you. I got hacked and had to
delete all my files.

I just noticed you could probably walk over to RockAuto. I bet they are only about 5 miles from you.

Per website:

Our corporate headquarters is in Madison, WI but all parts ship by common carrier from outlying warehouses. It is not possible to order or pick up parts in person.

But i have ordered from them in the past online. Good company.

maybe this helps.

Andre
Belgium

here some more.

I believe these are the numbers you need:
Model T Bearings etc.
left outer - Timken 09075 - Ford 2837
right outer - Timken 09076 - Ford 2838
inner Timkin 14120 - Ford 2834
Inner Cup Timken 14273 or Ford 2833
Outer Cup Timken 09194 or Ford 2836
Dust Seal Ford 2841N Federal Mogul (Timken) 204002 SKF 17617

Be aware that there are other bearing mfg's that sell races with the same #'s 14273 & 09194.
They are supposedly a direct replacement. They may not fit.
Genuine Timken races have the correct clearance radius to fit in T hubs.
Other brands do not, & wont seat down all the way.

Just went to Steve at Lang’s and ordered the complete set. Steve’s never let me down yet. When I went to checkout I grabbed my credit card and it was still smoldering from my last order.

Darren