MTFCA Forum

There is very little bushing to take the bite of a press tool.
I couldnt find the answer in past posts, so here it is.

I have removed with a modified flat washer, ground on the sides to an oval shape & the outer edges sharpened to just fit in the gap between the drum lip & the bushing. Angel into place as a device to catch the bushing to be able to press out with a socket or chunk of steel.

I have also bored away the bushing.

This idea came to me to use an internal snap ring to fit into the void above the bushing to provide more material for a press tool.

attachment=0]Low drum bushing.jpg[/attachment]

The 1.875" snap ring needed a little trim to the openings to fit thru the internal gear hole.
Makes the job a bit easier.

The Stevens low drum bushing remover is in the center of Mark's tool set photo - the one with the "ribs". I have an original set & it makes removing that particular bushing a snap !

A piece of 2” pipe ( can’t remember which size pipe for sure ) turned down will also work for a bushing driver. Would also work for the other bushings too when using the closest size pipe machined down.

The small shoulder is the real problem. I have used a die grinder and burr to make a groove in the bushing, enough to collapse it . Works well.

Allan from down under.

Steve T. You shamed me into making a proper press tool.

OD 1.680" step od 1.650". .015" press surface edge. Not much room for wear, but it works fine.
If I were to encounter a bushing too worn for the tool to bite, I have the snap ring as a fall back.
That stevens driver must be a real precision piece.

I have to ask if the Stevens set had instructions with it. Seems to me there would be and advising to use a back up jig or something to keep from cracking or breaking the drum. Maybe it was “understood “ that something should be used and a knowledgeable mechanic would know that.

The Stevens tool in question grabs the inner ID of the bushing by means of a series of serrated edges. As you drive the tool downward, it tightens against the ID of the bushing. The bushing is then driven out. This is all done while the drum is supported by one of the circular fixtures.

Mark's precision made tools kit is what we would call "The duck's guts", slang for about as good as you can get

If you plan on doing a number of transmission rebuilds the cost can be amortised over a number of jobs. I made aluminium drivers for the other trans bushes, but ally is too soft for the small shoulder of the low speed drum. The die grinder burr works well. If you do go a little too far, the hard gear hub will tell you so. The minimal mark made is of no consequence in the scheme of things.

Hope this might save you a few bucks.
Allan from down under.

Use an air chisel with a panel cutter. Hook the bushing and rattle it out.

John kuehn wrote: ↑

Sat Jan 31, 2026 9:01 pm

I have to ask if the Stevens set had instructions with it. Seems to me there would be and advising to use a back up jig or something to keep from cracking or breaking the drum. Maybe it was “understood “ that something should be used and a knowledgeable mechanic would know that.

In the photo below, the red arrow is T-295A Bushing Driver and Block and the yellow arrow is T-295B Bushing Remover, showing the drum being supported by the block.

Thanks that’s what I thought.

32#, thats quite a lot of steel.
The picture gives a perspective of how large those base plates & press tools are. I hadnt realized.
We have learned there are many different ways to remove that low drum bushing.
Thanks to all who participated.