MTFCA Forum

I know people have done it but wanting to get some ideas how without changing the backets on the frame. Can anyone post a couple photos of the area front and rear of how showing how they did it? I have a couple of ideas but don't have room to be taking the body on and off besides it's kinda heavy for one person! Except for a crushed area above the left side, the cab is in pretty solid condition. No doors and just got the cab. The rest went to a friend.

I've never personally seen one, so can't answer to specific examples/methods. More than likely I'd only be stating the obvious as to what you see or are thinking, but, such as it is, my thoughts:

I don't know how the middle bracket of a car frame lines up with the cab, if at all. The TT cab rear bracket has two holes running parallel with the frame, one forward for the cab, rear for the bed. However, the closed cab has a heavy plate running the entire length of the back, which rests and is bolted directly to the frame/bracket. For the rear attachment then, if the plate lines up with the car bracket, it may match, or, only reguire a new hole in the cab plate. If it doesn't match up, an argument could be made to simply drill holes through the cab plate and frame and bolt directly to the frame.

The front is a more difficult problem. First being again if the forward car bracket lines up, but secondly it is only one hole. The front TT bracket is also a two hole unit, but holes running perpendicular to frame that bolts a cantilevered wood block (eg, one bracket bolt attachment will not be sufficient to support the cantilever block). The first hole bolts block to bracket, the middle block bolt attaching the cab thru the block into the bracket outer hole, the outer block hole bolts to the cab. This is your engineering problem given the front cab mounts are higher than the frame, and extend far outward. Might require fabricating & welding on a two hole bracket to incorporate the TT wood blocks.
There was a recent post that provided a diagram/specs for the blocks, which in turn reflects the bracket design/hole size & distancing between both holes. You'll just need to measure the cab mounts to set the distancing of the bracket holes relative to the frame, unless somebody with a TT can provide the actual bracket hole relative to frame specs.

The rear cross piece if off right now but the center to center holes all line up. Now if too far back or too far forward is a different story. The front wood pieces are there but need to check how they line up. Was not sure if that wood was correct, sounds like it is.
Thanks loads thats a start.

Here's the thread where a member posted the block specs

TT Square Cab mounting question - and a backstory - MTFCA Forum https://share.google/VI4YwETIkqcI9k6r3

Some past discussions
about frame brackets
https://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/5 ... 1451757467
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viewtopic.php?t=4577
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steering bracket
https://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/5 ... 1455060742
https://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/5 ... 1460043617
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Chassis diagrams
https://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/8 ... 1543827154
https://www.google.com/search?q=TT+chas ... ws-wiz-img

Thanks everyone! Went out and did some checking. The wood blocks are in place up front but only have one mounting hole to mount to frame brackets. They need to be replaced as the holes are just a little too close together to mount to the car frame brackets. The rear cross channel is off which can work in my favor because can remount it a little over 2 inches forward and use the original car chassis mounting brackets then could use wood to support under where it would have been if needed.
Because the rear channel is off and the wood blocks up front, wonder if someone in the past started doing the same thing I am doing now, don't know and never will.

Mark, I see you have a 1948. I've got a 1950 F1 which I put on a old Ranger frame. Since it will never be correct, feel free to run angle iron across the frame wherever needed and perhaps some cut wood on top of that, then the cab. I measured the hood (and front end) placement over the front wheels many times, to determine where the cab had to go. Wherever the hood sits, the cowl mates up as you already know. All that dictates where the angle iron is needed under the cab. Sometimes the angle iron needs to point "down".