Starter Bendix is it OK?

[BLB27]

I am getting ready to install a rebuilt starter in my 1927 coupe. Attached are photos of my original bendix. I would appreciate opinions on whether or not it is useable, or if I should purchase a new one.

I assume what is shown on left end of the teeth is normal wear. Is this a problem?

The end of the tooth, where the screw driver points in the fourth photo, is different than the ends of all of the other teeth. Is this a problem?

[Humblej]

Your bendix is missing a shield where the teeth step down. Yes it is a problem. Your spring is no good also. Look for another bendix.

[BLB27]

Here are two more photos.

[speedytinc]

Its totally fubar.
The counterweight is missing. Where did it go??
Spring is sprung.
Cant tell for sure if the drive collar is in tact, but, it looks a bit off.

[Kerry]

The shield that is missing holds a pin and spring that stops the gear from working it's way into the flywheel ring gear when not being used.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

Bruce,

You can tell the spring is bad since the two ends no longer align with one another. It means that it's been over-torqued and it's bent out of shape.

[speedytinc]

The shield that is missing holds a pin and spring that stops the gear from working it's way into the flywheel ring gear when not being used.

Its a counterweight.

Its presence causes the gear to move into the ring gear when activated.
Once started the spring loaded pin in it keeps the gear from vibrating forward into the spinning ring gear.

Go to Langs catalog & see what its supposed to look like.

[perry kete]

[BLB27]

Thanks everyone! I will buy a new one from Snyder's or Lang's.

I am trying to understand the bendix. In the Lang's diagram, where is the "shield" and the "counter balance"?

[Humblej]

5021G is it.

[BLB27]

I meant to say "counterweight" not "counterbalance"!

[jiminbartow]

Another diagram with labels:

[BLB27]

Where is the "counterweight"

[jiminbartow]

The parts you see in both diagrams are all there are. If you have all of the parts, regardless of what others call them, your bendix is complete. Your spring has been subjected to excessive slamming and is bad. The two bolt holes on the spring must be on the same side and the spring spirals must be straight and not angled. I have never heard of a counterweight on a bendix. At least Ford never referred to any parts as a “counterweight”, so there is no need to obsess about it. Jim Patrick

[JTT3]

The collar in the red circle. 5021G

[Allan]

That collar has the counterweight built into it, all in one piece. It has three tabs on the onside diameter, which engage in three slots on the back of the gear. These slots are upset to fix the collar to the gear. These upsets frequently fail, and many times the collar is then bronze welded to the gear. This is a perfectly satisfactory fix. I wonder where yours went?
Part of the collar assembly is a tiny spring and plunger which helps to stop the gear drifting into mesh when the engine is running. the plunger and spring are also available from the vendors.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.

[jab35]

"That collar has the counterweight built into it, all in one piece."
https://www.modeltford.com/item/5021G.aspx


"Part of the collar assembly is a tiny spring and plunger"
https://www.modeltford.com/item/5021PS.aspx

[5 WoodenWheels]

I recently rebuilt the starter bendix with new parts from Lang’s. I had help from an experienced Model T owner and good thing I did. There are some special operations like “staking” one part onto the threaded end of the shaft. Anyway, all this to say you’ll have trouble finding a complete, assembled bendix as they currently are unavailable so far as I know. The individual parts you’ll need are available, however.

[RajoRacer]

Gerrit - I've rebuilt many Bendix drives as in replacing the counterbalance gear - I use Red Loktite on the sleeve AND stake it.

[Allan]

Getting the bearing sleeve off the end of the spiral is the tricky bit. I do it by cutting two bullet head nails off just under the head, and putting the last bit of the nail shaft into the holes in the sleeve. The sleeve is then held in a vice with some soft jaws, and turned enough so that the protruding nail heads will stop it rotating in the vice jaws. With the bolt screwed in at the other end of the spiral, I use a large adjustable wrench to turn the spiral piece. It will ever-ride the upsets in the thread and allow the bearing sleeve to be wound off. Replacement is just the reverse operation.

When the bearing sleeve is replaced, it may end up stopping with the original upsets in the same place. If so, I take it off again and linish a bit off the end so it can be threaded on just a bit further. Loctie and stake it in the new place.

Hope this helps,
Allan from down under.

[5 WoodenWheels]

Gerrit - I've rebuilt many Bendix drives as in replacing the counterbalance gear - I use Red Loktite on the sleeve AND stake it.

Thanks, I believe he did use Loktite as well. One other tip for the OP if he’s still around: when putting the bendix cover back on the starter, you’ll save time by starting one of the little screws first then sliding the cover in place. With the pedals and everything else in the way it can be daunting to line up the holes with the cover while trying to start a screw. One of my club members shared this with me.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

Gerrit - I've rebuilt many Bendix drives as in replacing the counterbalance gear - I use Red Loktite on the sleeve AND stake it.

Thanks, I believe he did use Loktite as well. One other tip for the OP if he’s still around: when putting the bendix cover back on the starter, you’ll save time by starting one of the little screws first then sliding the cover in place. With the pedals and everything else in the way it can be daunting to line up the holes with the cover while trying to start a screw. One of my club members shared this with me.

Good advice on getting the screw started first. However, not all covers have slotted holes.

Yes, where is the OP?

[jab35]

In a previous discussion of this topic, someone mentioned using a screw-holding screwdriver for the task, along with starting one screw and slotting the corresponding hole in the cover, all excellent ideas in my view. jb