In an earlier post, those that responded told me pretty clearly, "You have to remove the body of an '11 Touring in order to remove and replace the fuel tank."
Before I undertake that project, I'd like to give cleaning the tank (without removing the body) another try.
My idea is to fill the tank with an appropriate cleaner, then agitate it with a propeller on a shaft that will go down into the tank.
After a while, I'd drain the cleaner and start over.
Has anyone done this that could recommend 1. Cleaner, and 2. Propeller, shaft, etc.
Please let me know.
Thanks.
Cleaning The Fuel Tank
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Topic author - Posts: 248
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 8:29 pm
- First Name: Bill
- Last Name: Everett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1911 Touring, 1914 Touring, 1912 Roadster PickUp in process
- Location: Collierville, TN
- MTFCA Number: 93
- MTFCA Life Member: YES
- Board Member Since: 2011
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- Posts: 6435
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:18 am
- First Name: Scott
- Last Name: Conger
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: '13, '15, '19, '23
- Location: Clark, WY
- Board Member Since: 2005
Re: Cleaning The Fuel Tank
What is an appropriate cleaner?
You'd think I get royalties for suggesting this so much, but I had excellent success with the POR gas tank seal kit...it contains a cleaner/degreaser, a rust converter, and a sealer. And does not require agitation or any fooling around.
You'd think I get royalties for suggesting this so much, but I had excellent success with the POR gas tank seal kit...it contains a cleaner/degreaser, a rust converter, and a sealer. And does not require agitation or any fooling around.
Scott Conger
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
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- Posts: 5259
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
- First Name: Allan
- Last Name: Bennett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
- Location: Gawler, Australia
Re: Cleaning The Fuel Tank
Scott, I too have had great success with the POR treatment kit. However, it requires the tank to be rotated to slosh the product into all areas to be treated. This poster wants to avoid having to remove the tank if possible. I feel more confident of a good outcome if some mechanical means, such as a pound or three of tek screws can be rotated in the tank to remove rust/crud. Relying on chemical means to remove sludge is less than satisfactory for a proper clean-out, IMHO.
Allan from down under.
Allan from down under.
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- First Name: CHARLIE
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Re: Cleaning The Fuel Tank
Brother, sorry to lay this on you but there isnt a hell of a lot you can do in your situation. Whatever chemical you use you'll probably have to darn near fill the tank.
Forget everything you thought you knew.
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- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:18 am
- First Name: Scott
- Last Name: Conger
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Re: Cleaning The Fuel Tank
Allan
I missed the part where the tank stayed in the car...that's a tough situation, and you're right.
I don't dismiss the effort to raise the body, but a much more reliable car will come from that effort and then use the tank chemicals as designed. I would personally be devistated if I owned that car and found it to be wholy unreliable. A few hours of pain now will be better than a sweltering afternoon on the side of the road (for who know how many times?)
As an aside, my '13 got a load of cement dust with a tank of gas a couple of years ago and now has a volcano-like lump just under the fill hole. It is one of my next projects and I am pretty sure with a '13, the body has to come off, too. I've made the decision to just DO it and be done with the whole mess. I'd encourage Bill to do the same.
I missed the part where the tank stayed in the car...that's a tough situation, and you're right.
I don't dismiss the effort to raise the body, but a much more reliable car will come from that effort and then use the tank chemicals as designed. I would personally be devistated if I owned that car and found it to be wholy unreliable. A few hours of pain now will be better than a sweltering afternoon on the side of the road (for who know how many times?)
As an aside, my '13 got a load of cement dust with a tank of gas a couple of years ago and now has a volcano-like lump just under the fill hole. It is one of my next projects and I am pretty sure with a '13, the body has to come off, too. I've made the decision to just DO it and be done with the whole mess. I'd encourage Bill to do the same.
Scott Conger
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured