MTFCA Forum

Where is the best place to buy Babbitt material? Who has the formula that is the best grade or one that is the same composition as the Ford model T? Thank you. Erick

I buy government grade #2 from United Metals. They publish their formulae online and it is what Ford used for model T’s.

If your only doing 1 engine then buy the babbitt from the T vendors. I don't know about your area but down my way if you want babbitt from a metal merchant supplier you can only buy in bulk, which is fine if doing several engines.

Erik Barrett wrote: ↑

Tue Aug 06, 2019 7:57 pm

I buy government grade #2 from United Metals. They publish their formulae online and it is what Ford used for model T’s.

Not the same as Fords, Erik.

Herm.

Here a place that makes Ford babbitt. http://stores.acrosales.com/fordbabbitt/
Dan

While there is debate about what is the "best" Babbitt, there are a number of similar materials to what Ford specified.

You can buy smaller quantities here:

https://www.kappalloy.com/babbitt-alloy ... urakapp-2/

https://www.kappalloy.com/kappatinningt ... -1-lb-jar/

Herm, please elaborate. I’d like to learn more.

Erik Barrett wrote: ↑

Wed Aug 07, 2019 11:24 am

Herm, please elaborate. I’d like to learn more.

I will try to do it tonight, Mr. Erik, I am pouring in a 1903 Olds, today.

Herm.

Here it is ! [attachment=0]

Just because babbitt has Ford in the babbitt, does not mean it came from the Ford Factory, it may be 86-7-7, but it didn't come from Ford.


The babbitt in the Ford Garages, that we got with Wilson tools, that was Ford Babbitt, all had Ford Imprinted in the bar, and written out, Just like the Model T, and A, signs.

We have had a lot of Babbitt that was Printed Ford in it, but was lead Babbitt. Henrys, Gyp parts.

Most all Bearing Manufacturers, used Grade No. 11, specified by car builders.

We use Grade No. 11, and also a lot of Grade No. 2.

We don't use much of 86-7-7, Ford formula, as it machines dirty.

Herm.

Just in case anyone in Australia stumbles across this thread, I use Consolidated Alloys "Auto" white metal.

http://www.cagroup.com.au/wp-content/up ... s-2017.pdf

http://www.cagroup.com.au

You can buy it direct from them or order it through a reseller like Blackwoods or Bunnings Trade.

BUT IT SAYS “GENUINE “. Thought I’d go fishing with that pic and I caught a big one !

Herm, thanks for the input. I will stick with grade 2. My book on rebuilding model A’s claims that Ford went to a cheaper lead base babbit because they thought the more robust, larger crankshaft did not require the more expensive grade. Maybe that is why the Ford name is on some lower grade babbit ingots? Just a thought. Is your Oldsmobile project a curved dash one cylinder? Always an admirer of your work and formidable experience. The oldest thing I have done bearing work on is a 1904 B Ford.

Herm, how do you chose when you use Grade No. 11 and when you use Grade No. 2 Babbitt?

Erik Barrett wrote: ↑

Thu Aug 08, 2019 1:19 am

Herm, thanks for the input. I will stick with grade 2. My book on rebuilding model A’s claims that Ford went to a cheaper lead base babbit because they thought the more robust, larger crankshaft did not require the more expensive grade. Maybe that is why the Ford name is on some lower grade babbit ingots? Just a thought. Is your Oldsmobile project a curved dash one cylinder? Always an admirer of your work and formidable experience. The oldest thing I have done bearing work on is a 1904 B Ford.

Grade 2 is fine, we use it some times. Buddy, it all depends on price, and availability.

Yes, that was in, I think early V-8's. The Early Ford V-8 Forum would know.

Yes, Ford tried Lead, a Copper Lead, it didn't work out, so they went to a Cadmium Sliver alloy.

The V-8 Ford Ron Bearings were never repoured, as they wear on out side, and in.

The olds is a Curved Dash, 1903. we have don a Shott " SP " A Yale, and I can't think of the other.

Herm.