MTFCA Forum

They're a temporary measure at best. This was a pre-82 cent, but that didn't keep it from wearing out in just a few years.

Luckily, they're cheap!

Are you sure that was a pre-'82? The way it squished looks more like the zinc cents. I have seen several from parking lots after being run over by cars a few hundred times. They seem to be a graduated sort of zinc/copper alloy and reveal more zinc from the center layers when they get beaten out. Yours in the picture looks that way.
Just wondering.

Mine seems to "self lubricate" said area. Savin my pennies...

Are you sure that was a pre-'82?

Yes, I made sure when I put it in. But it's squashed thinner than the pennies we used to put on the street car tracks.

I weigh pennies as they pass through my possession and I've accumulated a roll of the heavy ones. U think they are worth $1.00 each as shims?

Shim for?

Shim for?

Drag link.

I will sell you some shims for a buck

The later copper-clad aluminum pennies cost us the taxpayers 3 cents each to produce.....

Use Canadian pennies, they stopped using them.

The later copper-clad aluminum pennies...

The 1982+ cents are copper-plated zinc. CBS News reports that the cost of production last year was 1½¢ each. Cost varies year to year depending on the fluctuating cost of metals. In spite of its cost the US cent is unlikely to disappear anytime soon, because of the public's love for Abraham Lincoln and fondness for the coin that bears his likeness.

what part was being shimmed? I am still learning.

donald4ham wrote: ↑

Wed Aug 14, 2019 11:00 am

what part was being shimmed? I am still learning.

The "wishbone" ball socket.

Too small for the wishbone - fits the drag link.

Don, sadly, as often the case, “penny-wise and pound foolish “ REALLY applies here. For the purist, get good caps and rebuild your ball to round. Otherwise, actual era shims are readily available, and I’ll send you some if need be. These are for drag link ends and wishbone ball socket. They made aftermarket spring loaded accessories, which are the bees knees. Shown to upper right is the wishbone sized one. They are both available from parts suppliers, they may be made of brass or bronze, but I think Friend Dave has some originals over in Norton. He’ll fix you up.

AND, if you are smart, put a small zerk or pin alemite fitting on it, and they will always be greased ! Just don’t let larry Smith see it.

Don, this another period fix. These, though, belong in a display cabinet . I’m sure there are some thrifty T owners that use them, and they are neat to see on farmyard type restorations. You will likely see grooves on original parts that are very worn out, this is what made the grooves. These were used to stop rattles on those metal-to-metal wear points that this thread is discussing.

Ever heard of filing the caps, and then packing them with wheel bearing grease?

Ever heard of filing the caps, and then packing them with wheel bearing grease?

Sounds sort of familiar.

Larry, filing the caps will do nothing for an out of round ball, just make it wear out faster. Do you have some magical grease that will take up the void?

Thank you Tim for the information. I was curious as to where these were used. Like you said, it is wiser to rebuild the part instead of a patch.
Thanks again
Don