ID & Price? Frame, fenders, running boards and splash guards
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Topic author - Posts: 726
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- First Name: Matt
- Last Name: G
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ID & Price? Frame, fenders, running boards and splash guards
I have to chance to buy these parts, but I really have no need of them. I am curious what you see from the photos? And the price you would consider is reasonable for this. In reality, I don't want to get a pile of parts that is bigger than my marriage can handle.
Front Right fender: year, $
Front Left fender: year, $
Rear fenders: year, $
Running boards: year, $
Splash guard: year, $
Frame: year, $
Matt
Front Right fender: year, $
Front Left fender: year, $
Rear fenders: year, $
Running boards: year, $
Splash guard: year, $
Frame: year, $
Matt
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Re: ID & Price? Frame, fenders, running boards and splash guards
Not much, less if you don't need them and less still, if your wife finds out you didn't need them. Jay in CA just sold parts that would completely fill a one car garage 4 feet deep for $300. The seller probably feels otherwise, though.
Scott Conger
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
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- First Name: Corey
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Re: ID & Price? Frame, fenders, running boards and splash guards
The taper leaf rear spring with a curled leaf for the spring clip attached to to the frame, along with the 1914 rear fenders would make me think it is the remnants of what was once a car or a start at building that year model from parts. The frame appears to have the holes on top for the 1914 firewall brackets but not earlier because the frame has the longer crossmember. The left front fender is 1913 but could come in early 14 and the right front fender is a later black radiator model fender. The splash shields appear to have the bulge at the rear that goes along with that era fenders.
Corey Walker, Brownsboro, Texas
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Re: ID & Price? Frame, fenders, running boards and splash guards
Right front fender is somewhere between 1917 and 1925 (can't see enough of the front edge to know for sure). I just had four front fenders given to me. Actually in the pile were two poor condition 1916 fenders I could rebuild and wanted, I got the whole pile for free at the Auburn swap meet at the end of the day, and had to take all to get the two I wanted. He had been trying to give the whole pile away for several hours before I gave in and took them (I really did NOT want the newer ones because I already had enough I don't need). I would bet a couple of the later fenders I did not want were almost as good as the one you are showing. So that should give you some idea what it is worth.
The left front fender appears to be a 1912! Fact is, most people today prefer to buy from Rootlieb, but it may be worth a hundred bucks if you find the right person.
The frame could be anywhere from 1914 to 1925, given that it has a tapered leaf rear spring, it may be late brass era or mid-'10s, or not. I see a lot of people asking good money for nice frames. And I see nice frames not selling for even $50. The rear spring, to the right person might get a hundred dollars. Erik B had one I think he sold it for fifty. I could and would have bought it for that, but I had already gone over my budget.
The rear fenders I think are either 1913 or '14 (can't see the inner skirts well enough to tell which). Again. most people want easy from Rootlieb, but I would think somewhere between $50 and $150 apiece depending upon how nice they are. Down to maybe free if they are rusted through anywhere (like the '16s I got for hauling off several I didn't want were).
Running boards, minor changes only from 1913 through '25. Condition is very important to value! NO extra HOLES at all, NO rust through, and very straight may be worth something to the right person. Any flaws, and they can get cheap fast. (Ever try to weld up extra holes and keep them straight?)
That other odd running board side apron? 1930 model A (I think). (no idea of value)
I hope some of that helps.
The left front fender appears to be a 1912! Fact is, most people today prefer to buy from Rootlieb, but it may be worth a hundred bucks if you find the right person.
The frame could be anywhere from 1914 to 1925, given that it has a tapered leaf rear spring, it may be late brass era or mid-'10s, or not. I see a lot of people asking good money for nice frames. And I see nice frames not selling for even $50. The rear spring, to the right person might get a hundred dollars. Erik B had one I think he sold it for fifty. I could and would have bought it for that, but I had already gone over my budget.
The rear fenders I think are either 1913 or '14 (can't see the inner skirts well enough to tell which). Again. most people want easy from Rootlieb, but I would think somewhere between $50 and $150 apiece depending upon how nice they are. Down to maybe free if they are rusted through anywhere (like the '16s I got for hauling off several I didn't want were).
Running boards, minor changes only from 1913 through '25. Condition is very important to value! NO extra HOLES at all, NO rust through, and very straight may be worth something to the right person. Any flaws, and they can get cheap fast. (Ever try to weld up extra holes and keep them straight?)
That other odd running board side apron? 1930 model A (I think). (no idea of value)
I hope some of that helps.
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Re: ID & Price? Frame, fenders, running boards and splash guards
Matt: What does the front cross member look like as to condition ? Has it been replaced and bolted in or is it riveted in ?
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Topic author - Posts: 726
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Re: ID & Price? Frame, fenders, running boards and splash guards
Kevin, I will have to look at that.
All, Thanks for your insight. In short, what I hear is unless I really need it this stuff is not worth much and I shouldn't waste my time even if it is given to me. The reason that this caught my attention was that this is early stuff. I am more familiar with the 1926-27 and figure that the late teens through the end of production is not worth much. But I hear you if you can buy a nice new Rootlieb fender that is as simple as just painting... stuff like this is not attractive.
Here is what I see looking at Rootlieb sheet metal and reading your commits:
Front Right fender: 1917-25, not worth anything...
Front Left fender: 1912? (1910-1913)
Rear fenders: 1914 http://www.rootlieb.com/fenders.html
Running boards: year, 1910-1912 http://www.rootlieb.com/running-boards.html
Splash guard: 1911 (is this the only year with the bulge?) https://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_mode ... entic.html
Frame: 1914 to 1925??? I will have to look for the details.
*Note: Macs paper catalog is a lot easier to look things up then online.
Please feel free to comment on the dates that I listed.
If this was all about the same year I would be more interested. I was thinking of slowly getting other parts as a back burner project, but I don't need another project...
Matthew
All, Thanks for your insight. In short, what I hear is unless I really need it this stuff is not worth much and I shouldn't waste my time even if it is given to me. The reason that this caught my attention was that this is early stuff. I am more familiar with the 1926-27 and figure that the late teens through the end of production is not worth much. But I hear you if you can buy a nice new Rootlieb fender that is as simple as just painting... stuff like this is not attractive.
Here is what I see looking at Rootlieb sheet metal and reading your commits:
Front Right fender: 1917-25, not worth anything...
Front Left fender: 1912? (1910-1913)
Rear fenders: 1914 http://www.rootlieb.com/fenders.html
Running boards: year, 1910-1912 http://www.rootlieb.com/running-boards.html
Splash guard: 1911 (is this the only year with the bulge?) https://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_mode ... entic.html
Frame: 1914 to 1925??? I will have to look for the details.
*Note: Macs paper catalog is a lot easier to look things up then online.
Please feel free to comment on the dates that I listed.
If this was all about the same year I would be more interested. I was thinking of slowly getting other parts as a back burner project, but I don't need another project...
Matthew
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Re: ID & Price? Frame, fenders, running boards and splash guards
Just to add and to be honest, it really depends on where you are as to the value as well. Being in California probably less than to someone in one of the rust belt states where these parts are becoming unobtanium especially given the rise in shipping prices for something of the size of fenders. -Matt
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Re: ID & Price? Frame, fenders, running boards and splash guards
Where you are and WHEN makes big differences. When I was trying to accumulate enough pieces for my '15 project about ten to fifteen years ago, I couldn't find much of anything within a couple hundred miles of me. I wound up buying both front fenders and one rear off eBad. They had to be shipped from the mid-West, and the UPS cost more than I paid for the fenders. The other rear fender I did get lucky and got at a Sacramento swap meet. I got it for about twenty dollars as the day was winding down. It had been there all day, starting at over a hundred dollars, but it was not that nice. As I was getting ready to leave, making a last fast walk across the mostly vacant spaces, I saw it was still there, and marked way down. So it was my last purchase as I was leaving.
The funny/annoying thing is, that in the past few years, I have had several front fenders drop into my lap. Some were free, a few others were local and I paid only a few dollars for them. And they were far better than what I had struggled to get and had already restored. And this past June, Another pair (in really rough shape) of rears were basically for free (for also taking away a few newer fronts I did not need).
Sometimes such things can't be had for love nor money. Other times? They seem to be all over where you are not! Then again, sometimes they drop in your lap.
If this stuff was nearby me, I could be interested in some of it if the price is right. But then I still haven't learned. I don't need any of those pieces. A few I may hope to want for a future project.
The funny/annoying thing is, that in the past few years, I have had several front fenders drop into my lap. Some were free, a few others were local and I paid only a few dollars for them. And they were far better than what I had struggled to get and had already restored. And this past June, Another pair (in really rough shape) of rears were basically for free (for also taking away a few newer fronts I did not need).
Sometimes such things can't be had for love nor money. Other times? They seem to be all over where you are not! Then again, sometimes they drop in your lap.
If this stuff was nearby me, I could be interested in some of it if the price is right. But then I still haven't learned. I don't need any of those pieces. A few I may hope to want for a future project.
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Topic author - Posts: 726
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Re: ID & Price? Frame, fenders, running boards and splash guards
Yeah, it is all about what you are looking for. When you are looking for it you can't find it cheap:)
Matthew
Matthew
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Re: ID & Price? Frame, fenders, running boards and splash guards
The "bulged" splash aprons are not accurately reproduced, so those would have some value. I'm not sure how much though.
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Re: ID & Price? Frame, fenders, running boards and splash guards
It’s worth something to the right person. It’s sort of like taking stuff to a swap meet for several years to no avail until one day a guy walks up and buys it after you spent hundreds of dollars in gas and hotel bills taking it the meets and selling it for about a quarter of what you have into it.
Been there and done that.
Been there and done that.
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Re: ID & Price? Frame, fenders, running boards and splash guards
It's all about whether someone's really needing the stuff or not.
I drug a pair of NOS full quarter panels for a 61 Buick hardtop to swap meets for a few years and no one seemed to care. (I wouldn't sell them online because shipping them would've been a nightmare...they were massive).
I'd just about given up and was going to scrap them when a guy stopped by my swap meet space and just about came unglued. He was ecstatic and was practically drooling and, without prompting, started throwing out crazy numbers (like $500 apiece). I let him have them for around $350 for the pair.
The guy used them to finish bodywork on what is now a stunning car. I see him and the car at a local cruise night from time to time and he always insists on telling anyone who'll listen about how I'm the guy who saved these two ultra rare panels.
I bought over a thousand NOS body panels and perfect panels wearing original paint taken from cars when the cars were practically new for a dollar apiece from the children of a guy who had hoarded them. I rented a box truck and had to make two trips to haul them home to a couple large storage units. I spent the next three years cataloging and selling them piece by piece as a way to supplment my income (I was a high school chemistry teacher). I ended up with a few gigantic quarter panels that I refused to ship so I drug them around to swap meets until they all found new homes.
Interested tidbit about that....I sold a large number of the panels to a guy in Florida who said he was taking them to Cuba to repair the old cars they still use over there.
I drug a pair of NOS full quarter panels for a 61 Buick hardtop to swap meets for a few years and no one seemed to care. (I wouldn't sell them online because shipping them would've been a nightmare...they were massive).
I'd just about given up and was going to scrap them when a guy stopped by my swap meet space and just about came unglued. He was ecstatic and was practically drooling and, without prompting, started throwing out crazy numbers (like $500 apiece). I let him have them for around $350 for the pair.
The guy used them to finish bodywork on what is now a stunning car. I see him and the car at a local cruise night from time to time and he always insists on telling anyone who'll listen about how I'm the guy who saved these two ultra rare panels.
I bought over a thousand NOS body panels and perfect panels wearing original paint taken from cars when the cars were practically new for a dollar apiece from the children of a guy who had hoarded them. I rented a box truck and had to make two trips to haul them home to a couple large storage units. I spent the next three years cataloging and selling them piece by piece as a way to supplment my income (I was a high school chemistry teacher). I ended up with a few gigantic quarter panels that I refused to ship so I drug them around to swap meets until they all found new homes.
Interested tidbit about that....I sold a large number of the panels to a guy in Florida who said he was taking them to Cuba to repair the old cars they still use over there.
1924 Touring