MTFCA Forum

Hi does anyone have the part number for the two piece dash for 11 Early 12? I'm needing it so I can get the blueprints from Benson Ford.
Thanks
Mike Bird

You need to order this CD:

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=5995

The BFRC people will tell you it has the drawing inventory list that you need to make an order without having to incur a research charge. On top of that, it is just plain necessary in many other ways if you're researching the details.

John Regan may have it. He used to make firewalls.

Mike

Don’t know what body you have, but here are the numbers from Sept 1912 Price List of Parts:

Benson Ford will want the “Factory Number” to search. More common is the Part No. but that is for dealer sale I.d.

1911Runabout. P/N 3700 Dash, 3/4” x 20 1/4” x 281/2” Factory Number 2558
1912 Runabout P/N 3700B Dash , Factory Number 5257

1911 Touring. P/N 3750 Dash 3/4” x 21 1/4” x 31 1/16” , Factory Number 1091B
1912 Touring. P/N 3750B Dash , Factory Number 5257

Dan,
I believe the T-1091-B is the one I'm looking for, the dimensions look like what I have on my blueprints.
Thanks so much!
Mike

Checking Bruce’s CD parts compilation, found these:

T-1091B 1911 P/N 3534B on Aug 18, 1911, Dash, 1911 and 1st 1,000 1912 cars with Kingston master vibrator.
T-1091B Dash 21 1/4” x 31 1/16” x 3/4”

Yes the factory number for the dash used as part of the so-called "2 piece dash" is the 1091B but that drawing is for the larger lower piece. The upper piece has a separate drawing number and is the "windshield spacer board". Earlier during 1909 and 1910 the spacer board was different for use with different brand windshields. I don't have that number here in front of me but if you don't have the size at that board I can probably find it in my files. The 1091B dash was a 5/8" thick center core of hardwood covered on front and back with 1/16 thick cherry veneer. All 3 wood pieces were built up with the grain running horizontal. Later Ford ran the outside veneers opposite in grain direction from the core grain direction. That was to reduce warp but it had the bad effect of causing the later dashes wood layers to separate from each other and you will find most of the 1912 and later dashes tend to have the veneer peeling off while dashes made during 1911 and earlier tended to stay together. This was because woods tend to gain in width from moisture and thus the 3 layers did NOT expand and contract in the same direction. More 1911 dashes survive without peeling than later dashes did.