MTFCA Forum

Was looking at different options for my speedster build. 4:1, 5:1 what gear box... Then I stumbled across this "steering quickener". Looks like it makes for an easier conversion and the one shown is a 1.5:1 box, There are other brands & ratios.
Howe Steering Quickener HRE-5225 ends 3/4 in. 36-spline 8in in length 2 5/8 diameter $90 spline coupler $15ea

So what do you guys think?

I don't mind 4:1, and prefer to not modify early cars. That said, I cannot possibly imagine how dangerous a T would be with a 1.5:1 ratio modifier.

You did calculate what that will do to a 4:1 ratio, right?

Personally I wouldn’t use that. It is possible to install a “conventional “ worm and sector type steering box in a T. In fact Ross offered this type of conversion in the era. I have one and am playing around with making a few copies. I don’t have any available for sale yet, but I have researched most of the “tricks “.
On my 27 roadster I reworked the the front axle with tilted in kingpins (required new spindles to be made). Now it steers like a modern car even with the stock T steering mechanism.
The “beauty “ of the Ross is that it is a “variable ratio “(slower in the middle and then quicker at the ends. 2 turns “lock to lock “

There have been many suggestions to convert from 4:1 to 5:1 steering pinion gear set. I calculated that a 4:1 hooked to 1.5:1 would give 6:1 - (2:1 quickener is out of the question). But have no experience with the feel of a 5:1 steering on T as being too much or perhaps room for a bit more. Not intending to go over 60mph either. Having said that, quickeners are designed for use in modern racing cars (dirt track, drifting, rally etc) and they also indicate not overdoing it too. "Conventional" boxes are more expensive and would require more modification. I have z bracketed the front axle for a 4-5in drop with the axle moved forward about 3 inches. I am trying to retain as much of the original steering components (1919-1926) - only exception is splitting the wishbones and attaching to the side rails via APCO accessory spring loaded ball caps or Model A tie rod ends (not heim joints). Was hoping to get some more ideas, pictures etc.

Our '21 Touring steers quick enough for me as is. Too quick if I back up too fast!

I believe you are calculating wrong unless you are going to install it upside down. 6:1 is slower and would actually probably make for a nicer driver, but you definitely don't want to be quicker than stock 4:1. These units are used on race cars to quicken a stock steering for less lock-to-lock turns on short tight tracks or parking lot slaloms, but modern cars do not have 4:1 steeringeven with quickeners.

Been using anywhere from 15 to 1 to a 22 to 1 worm drive boxes in Speedsters for years. Drives perfectly at any speed. Like power steering even at a dead stop. Can cruise all day long at 70 mph with no fatigue. To each their own!

All the Best,

Hank in Tin-A-See

Jeff, I don't have any information on quickeners, just sales info, but when you said if I was going to install it upside down you got me to dig further. So is this correct 4:1 steering ration means 4 degrees of turning the steering wheel results in 1 degree of tire turn. BUT a quickener ratio is a different reference, tire turn to steering wheel turn. Yes putting it in backwards (reversing the ends) and a 3:1 quickener would give a 12:1 steering ratio. Would the result then be: (easier but slower) less steering effort but require more turning of the wheel?

Yes, these quickeners CAN be installed backwards to slow the ratio.
1.5:1 installed backwards behind a 4:1 would make it 6:1, or forwards would be 2.66:1 ratio.

This is the input/output ratio of the steering wheel and steering shaft, not the actual measurement of how much the wheels turn (pitman arm and steering arm lengths and angles will also effect the actual degrees of wheel turn)

The length of the quickener along with the couplers needed, and brackets to rigid-mount the quickener to the chassis would take up a lot of space under the hood.

Yes, a slower ratio will be easier to turn (less effort) but take more movement of the steering wheel. Modern cars with "quick ratio" power steering are probably in the 12:1 or 13:1 range which gives about 2 to 2 1/2 turns lock-to-lock, but just try to steer one without power! Old manual steering cars were 15:1 on up. Trucks and busses might be 22:1 or more, you really had to turn that big wheel a lot! A Model T is light, so it got away with 4:1, but it darts with the slightest movement of the wheel and a pot hole can jerk the wheel right out of your hand, they are only about 3/4 turn or less lock-to-lock. The '26/'27s had 5:1 and it was a great improvement, some say almost like power steering.

Thank you all for your input, lots to consider, haven't really started steering design yet.

If you install this device between the firewall and steering box (guide) you will need to install a brace before and after that guide. Why? Because now you have added torque by the multiplying of this new device. Remember, the steering column/steering box has torque control only in that area for its original design. The frame will flex, fatigue, and break.

Hope this Helps,

Hank

Hank, Thank you for pointing that out, helps in thinking about everything else too. Yes the first thought was somewhere between the firewall and stock steering box. But I have no measurements yet for where anything will line up. Here is a picture of a Vega Box hooked up to a T frame, any issues with this setup?

Yes, will post you some pics later tonight. Glad to help!

Look back on some of the post I did on it, there are many photos and do’s and don’ts. Call me if you need more specific details.
I have made some templates.

All the Best,

Hank

Frank,

Just reposted for you below this thread. Give me a call if you need some templates.

All the Best,

Hank