Page 1 of 1

Leaking oil pan ear

Posted: Tue Sep 03, 2019 12:44 pm
by Robert Bente
After replacing old valves with modern one piece valves, and reseating, I’ve been able to achieve speeds that I’ve never had before, 45+. Problem has developed with oil leaking from one of the oil pan mounting ear areas. Maybe due to extra vibration from higher speeds. It has gotten progressively worse, it’s now at a steady dribble.
Any fixes other than an engine removal?
r/s Bob

Re: Leaking oil pan ear

Posted: Tue Sep 03, 2019 1:13 pm
by Henry K. Lee
Sometimes a good cleaning, inspect, if not structural like a crack just a leaky rivet head. Sand the area well, JB Weld regular set for a day should do the trick.

Hope this Helps,

Hank

Re: Leaking oil pan ear

Posted: Tue Sep 03, 2019 1:42 pm
by twrenn
Drive slower! Quit beating your car up! :lol: Sorry...couldn't resist. But seriously at least my precious Clara, a beautiful (if I do say so myself) '13 touring just loves 30-32 mph...she just purrs and drives smooth as silk. So why rush the fun at "modern speeds"? End of soap box!

Re: Leaking oil pan ear

Posted: Tue Sep 03, 2019 5:46 pm
by Autie
I would first drain the oil from the engine and after the leak fully stops, take some brake/carb cleaner to the area and get it fully cleaned all around the WHOLE area and then some and if you have an air compressor blow around the area/ear. Once cleaned and dry, pour the oil back in and hurry up and get under you T w/a strong light source and observer where it is exactly leaking (unless it is traveling around the side or underneath the ear). Check around the ear for cracks and check the rivets also. IF you are able to find the source and it is not to severe, THEN repeat draining/cleaning, and rough area with sandpaper. Next get a "Belly Pan" support brace to help relieve some of the weight on the pan ears and mount it in place BEFORE finally applying JB Weld (just as someone else has mentioned). If you apply a second coat of JB, be sure to rough up the first layer before applying the second. THE AREA MUST BE FREE OF OIL GREASE!!!! This is how I would tackle it. Good luck

Re: Leaking oil pan ear

Posted: Tue Sep 03, 2019 7:50 pm
by Duey_C
I cleaned it and used some $2 acrylic latex caulk (didn't have any JB Weld) in the late 90's. 8-)

Re: Leaking oil pan ear

Posted: Tue Sep 03, 2019 9:31 pm
by Robert Bente
I cleaned area as suggested and believe the leak is between the ear and the pan. There are no visible cracks or seepage on the exterior rivets.
I’m trying to figure out how JB weld would solve the leak.
I would like it to be that simple.
r/s Bob

Re: Leaking oil pan ear

Posted: Tue Sep 03, 2019 11:14 pm
by HalSched
Is it in a spot where a vise-grip could stop the leak? I drove my car for years with a vise-grip holding the pan tight to the block to stop an oil leak. I looked for the picture of it but had no luck finding it.

Re: Leaking oil pan ear

Posted: Wed Sep 04, 2019 5:57 am
by d stroud
I would be tempted to clean everything up squeaky clean and apply some Right Stuff, once you've found the source of the leak, maybe even use a vacuum cleaner to help suck it into the void. It would be more flexible than JB Weld I believe. Should last until you have to pull the engine at a later date. Just a thought. Dave

Re: Leaking oil pan ear

Posted: Wed Sep 04, 2019 8:58 am
by John kuehn
Use a degreaser like mineral spirits and spray it on with a spray bottle or brush it on. Get it good and clean and then use some lacquer thinner to clean it more. Wipe down and use some right stuff or silicone. Squeeze it in down the sides and top as best you can. That should do it.
If you have looked at a cleaned up pan it’s a wonder the pan ears didn’t leak more than they did. The brass was poured or slathered on with a torch but it did work. It just doesn’t look good!

Re: Leaking oil pan ear

Posted: Tue Sep 10, 2019 2:34 pm
by Robert Bente
I tried JB weld on both sides of ear. The leak seems to be coming from the top center somewhere. So, 4 hours later I’ve the pan off and there is no smoking gun, cracks, splits or loose rivets. The only thing that makes sense to me is it’s leaking at the gasket. Nothing obvious. I plan on applying a generous amount of ATV to a new gasket and sealing the inner rivet heads with something. Any thoughts? I do not have access to a pan straightener.
r/s Bob

Re: Leaking oil pan ear

Posted: Tue Sep 10, 2019 2:59 pm
by Autie
Correct me if I am wrong, maybe an optical illusion from the angle or the way the picture was taken but, on the gasket edge of the pan (in the area of the pan ear) is it curved/bent downward instead of being flat/straight?

Re: Leaking oil pan ear

Posted: Tue Sep 10, 2019 3:01 pm
by Autie
Take a straight edge across the area if suspected to be bent. This should confirm if it is. Hope this helps.

Re: Leaking oil pan ear

Posted: Tue Sep 10, 2019 5:31 pm
by Robert Bente
Yes, there is a role to the edge. I have no clue how to straighten/ flatten it without removing the ear.

Re: Leaking oil pan ear

Posted: Tue Sep 10, 2019 8:09 pm
by kmatt
Robert: To fix that bent pan gasket surface at the crank case arm try using a car body repair trick. Use body repair studs spot welded to the bent pan surface, then grab the studs with the small body work slide hammer that is made for the job ,working back and forth, slowly pulling the bent pan surface up, then cut off studs and smooth pan surface. Try Eastwood, I bet they sell hobby grade equipment that is not to expensive to due this type body work.

Re: Leaking oil pan ear

Posted: Tue Sep 10, 2019 8:14 pm
by RajoRacer
Torch & a couple different O.D. round stock bars should do the trick.

Re: Leaking oil pan ear

Posted: Wed Sep 11, 2019 9:20 am
by Robert Bente
What about using JBWeld, and filing smooth and flush? I’m trying to keep my costs down due to other vehicle projects draining my budget.
r/s Bob

Re: Leaking oil pan ear

Posted: Wed Sep 11, 2019 1:04 pm
by Autie
Don't over think it! Not everyone has access to torches, welders or cash! But me personally, I would not use JB weld to fill in the gap. I've always relied on "Mother Necessity". Even if you are not handy, this shouldn't be that difficult. Any way you can, (w/o crimping/denting) bend that lip upward. Secure the pan, get underneath/behind the lip and pull or bend it outward a LITTLE beyond where it would be flat. It will be easier to work at making it flat again this way. Do not try to hammer it on both sides of the ears. Just be careful and get "the feel" for the metal when using a hammer when reshaping back into place. Easy peasy. After you straighten out that lip, make sure you flatten each of the bolt holes around the whole pan. I accomplish this by placing wood behind the holes and then hammering the tops of the holes until they are flat again.