MTFCA Forum

Had a great time at this years Texas T Party, this year in Brenham, Texas and environs. One hundred four model T's came out, over 200 people. Here is my personal account for Friday/Saturday. These are great because they pushed me to finish things undone on Shirley my 1922ish parts salad car. See my other postings for Kevlar band replacement, pedal supports, Clevis, slow speed notch replacement. I also replaced my emergency brake shoes with two piece ones.

The good:
1) It worked! We went out and got back under our own power. It might be leaking oil less.
2) The sightseeing was great.
3) Members of the Fort Worth club helped me when Shirley was running poorly.
4) 1 piece e-brake shoes work much better than 2 piece so that it actually stops reasonably.
5) Parties were fun. 1920's costumes are great. Food and camaraderie was great.
6) Wow the other T cars were amazing.

The bad:
1) Hit my garage door with my newly rebuilt top backing it out of the garage and tore out the 2 back flaps and broke the rear seat backrest wood Picture 3 shows broken back rest wood, common sense's torn out. Oops! Need new rear seat back rest wood, don't know where to get it.

2) Ran very rough and slow until the Fort Worth club members looked it over and found out that the intake manifold needed tightening and my commutator was very dirty. It had not been cleaned for probably 2 years. We cleaned it up and it began to run much better. Suggested changing it out and getting the brush-type also modern seal for the cam shaft.

3) Magneto has stopped working completely. Nothing seems to be amiss. Post is on tightly. Fuzz was removed twice from the post. Magneto came back working for awhile when the commutator was cleaned but is again back to zero. What could it be?

4) Picture 1: Blew out my muffler when switched from battery to magneto then back again when it did not work. Discovered when I returned home that the nut had come off so I reassembled it and put a new lock washer and nut on so maybe it will be ok.

5) Post Kevlar band/Supports/Clevis/Slow speed notch replacement it still creeps forward when in neutral but this diminishes with use. High speed still doesn't engage completely unless you pull back on the pedal with your foot. It did not do this before I made the changes. I've adjusted the clevis multiple times. Is there a transmission clutch spring replacement in my future? I hope not. Pedal travel for low/high speed seems right. I can try loosening the low band. Suggestions welcome.

6) Six volt fairly new battery not charging from the car. Charges fine on a charger. I have a Fun projects regulator. Nothing seems to be disconnected. What could it be?

7) Leaks oil less. Wish it didn't leak. I can wish can't I?

Shopping list:

1) Brush-type commutator.
2) Rear seat backrest wood -- need a source.
3) Cam shaft seal -- was told the new ones seal it up well so no leaks.
4) Transmission clutch spring? (hope not).
5) ?

Correction: "replaced my emergency brake shoes with two piece ones." should be replaced my two piece shoes with 1 piece shoes.

My muffler lost its nut and washer on the last tour, oh well only 98 years young! The suppliers carry the tack strip. Sounds like a fun time. Best we can do on a club tour is maybe 3-4 average, the rest are A's or modern.

Ignacio; Check your oil level, leaking less oil can mean a low oil level.

Good for you for running with the big dogs like that.

I hope to attend next year.

It was great to see y'all at the Brenham T Party.

Too bad this is always scheduled opposite Hershey.


1 R.V. Anderson's bother Jonathan Anderson makes new tack strips.

2 For a brush-type timer you want a new TW or a new or original New Day. The last item is often found dirt cheap at swap meets.

3 Have you checked voltage at the post? If not, the problem could be in the switch or a loose wire.

4 Yes, the lock washer may be the cure.

5 Creeping when cold is the nature of the beast. The slipping clutch is another matter. Have you checked clutch finger adjustment? See pages 246-248 in the Bible. If the main clutch spring is weak you're looking at major surgery.

6 I'm no help with electronics.

7 Go ahead and wish, but check the level often.

Next year’s Texas T Party is scheduled to be in Temple, TX...Tony and Debbie Marino are among the best and most fun Model T hobbiests in the State. I’m sorry I missed it this year but we were worn out from the most excellent Covered Bridges Tour. Will definitely not miss the T Party early next October...

The tack rail looks split but not shattered. One option might be to strip back the upholstery and repair the tack rail with marine epoxy and clamps.

West System epoxy with a bit of thickener to make the epoxy creamier, spoon in with a tongue depressor and then lots of clamps. It might be enough to repair the tack rail and save a larger job of replacing it.

I used the West epoxy to repair and strengthen the old original on my T where it was cracking and to fill in the old tack holes. So far its holding well.

Jeff
Nova Scotia

Thanks Sonny,

We missed y'all this year in Brenham. We look forward to seeing y'all next year in Temple. The old TT made it all the way to the end!

Nova Scotia Jeff: will Quick Poly work? I have that.

Kansas Jeff: Opened up the magneto post for the 3rd time, it was loaded with fuzz again, cleaned it again and magneto works again.

If anything the low speed band is loose I can press it nearly to the floor. It didn't creep forward so much with the cotton bands. I backed off on the clutch lever bolt some, maybe that will help. I have no idea what to adjust the clutch lever bolt. I found this thread: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/59 ... 1477497444 and will try it tomorrow.

#6 Could be the brushes in the generator aren't making contact with the armature.
You can hose it down with contact cleaner and or use crocus cloth on the armature.
Just don't clean with anything that will imbed grit.
Good luck!

It is very easy to "blow" that type muffler. I like to put a few tack welds around the end plates. Then put on the nut with a lock washer. Mine haven't blown in about 20 years.
Norm

Hi Ignacio

I tried Quick Poly once and was disappointed and will never use it again. I don't think it would have the needed strength to hold every thing back together when under stress from the tension on of the top when its up.

I prefer the West System epoxy. If you google it they have a lot of information on their website on the many different ways it can be used. Wood repair and restoration is one of the main ones. When I did overload load it (usually unplanned too) the wood would break before the epoxy did when its used right.

The West Epoxy should be thickened with the filler powder for use for this repair, it helps to fill in small voids and cracks when the two pieces don't come back together 100 percent tight. The straight from the can epoxy is a bit runny which helps it soak into wood when doing general bonding, but it would tend to drip out when doing this repair. I have used it in building new wood body parts and repairing/splicing old and new wood sections for repair/rebuilds. I also found that it helps to let it cure for a few days before sanding to better harden up too. I'm a fan.

Second choice would be a good name brand two part epoxy intended for carpentry wood work. There are others that would work will too.

Good luck with the repair.

Jeff
Nova Scotia

George House wrote: ↑

Mon Oct 14, 2019 5:38 pm

Next year’s Texas T Party is scheduled to be in Temple, TX...Tony and Debbie Marino are among the best and most fun Model T hobbiests in the State. I’m sorry I missed it this year but we were worn out from the most excellent Covered Bridges Tour. Will definitely not miss the T Party early next October...

I'll be there too...can't wait.