MTFCA Forum

We have been making the plate nuts for the radiator mounting kit for years at 2 3/8" long, in the past I have seen on this site that some feel it is to long, the originals were only just under a inch long and I think that was on early cars but no one liked them because they would spin, we have made this length for years just like the old manufactures , I recall someone saying they had to cut them down in length, we are going to start a new batch, what length would be good for everyone ? Bob
comments welcome

It depends on how original you wish to be. It is true, the early ones can spin, but I've had little trouble with them. Around 1926 they redesigned them to twice the length, so they don't spin.

I might make both styles, Bob

I'd vote to make both available. I had to cut the long ones down to clear the fender iron bolts on my '13, the plate wouldn't clear the original "tall head" fender iron bolts, which set the radiator stud at an angle. Yup, a short plate will spin and can be difficult to disassemble, but then, if the assembly is badly rusted, it will be difficult anyhow !

Putting both type of nuts in the kit will give an option of which you want to use. Make it a combo kit. Probably would cost a bit more but not all that much. That would solve any issue. I bought a kit for my 24 Coupe and it had an info sheet in it. Adding the info about both styles that can used in the kit would clarify which to use for authenticity.

FWIW, the early (brass era) originals were supposed to be a full inch in length, by 3/4" wide and 1/4" thick.

Looking at originals they are all over the map
1" x 7/8" on most but the holes are all over the map, none are centered and they all vary about .0020-.0085
the later style measures 2 5/16" x 3/4" with centered hole, I might have to get the prints but not a crucial part.
I will look for a few more, if anyone has some please let me know your measurements, Bob

John kuehn wrote: ↑

Mon Oct 14, 2019 1:51 pm

Putting both type of nuts in the kit will give an option of which you want to use. Make it a combo kit. Probably would cost a bit more but not all that much. That would solve any issue. I bought a kit for my 24 Coupe and it had an info sheet in it. Adding the info about both styles that can used in the kit would clarify which to use for authenticity.

While that is sort of convenient, We are still pulling all that material out of the ground to send it through the entire energy process, use only half, and then we or "they" throw it in the recycle bucket any way.

I've installed the new nuts on 2 cars ( a 25, and 24 ) and had to cut 1/4 inch off both to make them fit.

Bob, make them all long ones. Those who must have the short versions and the grief they can give, can always cut them down to suit. They probably should not be plated either. Then, to be absolutely original, they should be sheared rather than sawn to length!

I too, have found some with the hole drilled off centre in relation to the width. This can be helpful when trying to clear the fender iron mounting bolt heads. I doubt it was done intentionally, as the hurly-burly of the production line may well have been to rapid for the fitters to mount them in a particular orientation.

Allan from down under.

Over the years looking at and going over cans and boxes of small T parts I have also noticed the radiator nuts with thread holes drilled here and there.
I have a feeling that on Fords assembly lines there was more than a few that were thrown on the floor and wound up in a scrap pile because they wouldn’t fit easily in assembly.
There was probably boxes of the nuts and the assembly line guys grabbed for the “good ones” they knew would work the best.
From a mechanics point of view of course!
The suppliers who made them weren’t to concerned about being really precise and we have the proof to show it.

Allan wrote: ↑

Fri Oct 18, 2019 5:52 am

Bob, make them all long ones. Those who must have the short versions and the grief they can give, can always cut them down to suit. They probably should not be plated either. Then, to be absolutely original, they should be sheared rather than sawn to length!

Allan from down under.

I agree.

I just installed an old (probably original) set when I installed my new radiator. They were the shorter version. It would've made things a bit easier if they were longer.

As far as originality goes, would a judge get in there and shine a light on those to see how long they were? If so....good grief!

Ours were never plated, they will be 2" from now on, production should start next week, Bon

Bob, sorry

does anyone have some original long ones all the ones I have found measure 2 1/8" think this might be the way to go also will be making the 1" for 1909-17, Bob
sheared not cut

It's not just radiator nuts with the holes off center.

A lot of coil box terminal nuts are cockeyed too, some of them even more than this one.

Steve, that's what makes original parts different from reproductions. the stamped, flanged wheel lug nuts on Kelsey loose lug wheels often have the threaded hole off centre to varying degrees. The excellent replacements available are fully machined, perfectly formed and accurately drilled and threaded, but all this means they look just too good.

Allan from down under.

I found the same thing with square nuts and bolts while restoring the 8in1 truck body. Not only off center holes or shank but the whench would fit the nut or bolt one way but a 1/4 turn and wrench was too large or too small. Charm is what I call it.