MTFCA Forum

The lining on my rear brakes is too close to the hub inner surface. The lining may have been replaced many years ago when the car was first restored. Its not a brake rod adjustment issue. Because of the tight fit, there is not enough throw in the handbrake lever to set and release the clutch properly. The best adjustment I could make would have the brakes start to grab as soon as the clutch is in neutral and then the lever does not go all the way forward to fully engage high gear when released.
I recall installing drum brakes in a Datsun truck years ago and the shoes had to be arced because they were too tight in the drums. Can that be done on a 26-27 rear brake drum with what appears to be a softer lining? Any thoughts are appreciated.

post pix of linings and brake cam

Brake cam is new from Langs

Richard

if you have the patience for my inquiry, a straight on shot of the assembly would be easier to digest. Thanks.

Looking at the rivit holes i would say linings are to thick

Here is a straight on pic. Art I also think the linings are too thick. Any way to correct this short of installing new lining? If I were to install new lining I wonder if I would run in to the same problem. ???
Apologize for the pic angle. Dont know what causes that

OK, a couple of comments and you can do what you will with them:

maybe an optical illusion but looks like lining is thinner on the "bottom" than the "top". Could you have reversed them from their previous positions?
bottom leading edge of lining looks loose and can be enough to drag
lining looks correct thickness, compare to this which worked fine: Your brake cam looks like it will energise brakes immediately upon rotation. Take a look at an original which has much more roll-off and would allow a bit of rotation before energising: and finally, you may well be dragging on the edge of the brakes if the drums are going onto the axles too far

good luck

Are those original Ford shoes ? There was an issue with the thickness of area where the cam rides on the repros a while back - don't recall if it was remedied.

Good catch Scott, I concur!

Hank

Informative and thoughtful observations. Thank you all.

Richard, it is a bit hard to see what is going on with the shoes in place on the backing plate. Can you take them off and put them in the drum, with a spacer the width of the cam? That will show you what you are dealing with. You do need a little clearance, to allow the cam to rotate a little as it transitions from the high gear, clutch engaged position, to clutch disengaged in neutral, and then to application of the handbrake.

Allan from down under.

I had this issue as well. I ground down the brake shoe where the rides until I got a satisfactory fit.

Update. I filed down the ends of the lining on a taper from the two rivets to the ends by the cam and ground off the overhang on the side seen in the photos. After readjusting the rods, the fit is better. There is a narrow range of motion on the handbrake in the neutral position before the brakes engage but the clutch fully compresses when the handbrake is released. The car is drivable and the action should improve when on the road. Thanks again for all the information.

Richard

it was very nice of you to follow with an update and is nice that you're back on the road. I agree that more (desireable) slack will develop with more driving. Good for you.

Richard: If you need a little more hand brake lever travel to go from T neutral only, to rear 1926 brakes and T neutral, you could try using two slider type clevis on the brake rods, replacing the stock clevis on each side.

Great suggestion Kevin. I see Langs sells them but they are pricey at $62.75 apiece. Someone must have a patent on them. I don't see any others doing an internet search. I'll drive the car some and see if the short neutral range is a problem. The issue is my novice girlfriend wants to drive the car. A LOT.