MTFCA Forum

Well I was able to get started on this for you folks so here we go!



Here are the original dimensions we are going for. For our purposes, I am using a cut off driveshaft from a Warford mod.

You will also want to keep an eye out for 1 1/4" commercial banding strap as it is .030" vs 3/4" is normally .020".

After selecting the high carbon steel strap material, slightly cut it a little oversize. Clean the metal by hand sanding first. You must anneal the metal prior to shaping and final cuts. You do this by heating the metal cherry red and letting it cool down at room temperature.

Now we can layout, form for the fitting. If you do not have a sheetmetal break, just use a vise with sharp edges on the jaws. I start with an 1/8" bending the metal a little less than a 45 degree angle. After getting the first angle, scribe the metal to be cut flush with the outside edge.

Cutting is a snap when the metal has no temperament to it. I next start fitting using a belt sander, first at the slightly bent edge. You want this to be flush or less than the side interception angle.

Now clamp all together and make them the same length.

After all are to a nice fit and edges cleaned, time to re-hardened the shims. Quit simple, reverse as we annealed except we quench in water. Afterwards, I clean with a high speed paddle sanding disc and a little hand sanding.

Clean with carb cleaner or any high evaporating solvent, we are now ready to attach with JB Weld. I like the bent angle to face to the right to accept the torque. Remember you are doing a lapping so they all must face the same way like fish scales. I like to load up then remove the excess as this releases air bubbles. Then as you install the shim, move it in and out to get a firm setting.

I like using small C clamps, using a little wax paper as a parting barrier is your friend with cut down wooden paint sticks. Clamping and releasing, then fully tightening down makes for a real good attachment.


I like to let set for two days, but for our purposes it will be fine.

As you can see, we are where we want to be at .875". Stay tune for part 2 tomorrow, same time, same channel!

All the Best,

Hank

Thank you Hank for taking time to document this and other how to's. I know it takes alot of time to do this with taking and posting photos along with the naritive. On this forum it will be available for future reference. 90% of my knowledge of T's come from the forum and its members. The other 10% is luck.

Hank - Please see my note on thanks on my original Nov. 4 posting entitled,...."Warford Support Bracket" (?)
plus,...I have sent you a "PM",.....harold

I guess I don’t understand what you are making here.

The T & TT u-joint and front end “square” of the T & TT driveshafts are all the same size.

The input and output ends of the Warfords should all be the same size too. There wasn’t really a car model and a truck model.

Hi Adam,

The cast iron cases were made to accept the forward bell to take up stresses, torque, and frame flex under loads with road conditions. The drive shaft at the u-joint has a square dimension of 13/16” on both T and TT.

The input shaft of the cast iron Warfords are the same 13/16” where as the aluminum cases are 7/8”. I believe they did this so people would not attempt to use an aluminum case in a previous converted TT iron case, product liability? But over the years have seen a grinder taken to the aluminum case input shafts. Even seen a case all blown apart in a TT due to stresses.

What we are demonstrating here is how to adapt a smaller input shaft (cast iron) model to a proper shaft dimension in a car model. The aluminum cases are getting harder to find in good condition.

Hope this Clarifies,

Hank