Everything cure out nicely so got up this morning and finished up. Just some draw filing with a good, sharp file (not the one you loan your brother in law or neighbor) is required. Remember that this is hard again so take your time cleaning your file with a brush. The JB Weld will cause it to plug up to, but comes right out with a wire brush. If you are having issues with a tight fit and cannot find where, use a little silver spray, a light coat is all that is required, let cure for awhile, and install. The paint will flake off where it needs to be filed.
If you did it right, there will be a singing tone all the through the metal sounding like it is one piece.
Adapting a TT Warford to a Conventional Model T-Part 2
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Topic author - Posts: 5339
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:09 am
- First Name: Henry
- Last Name: Lee
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: Many
- Location: South Pittsburg, TN
- MTFCA Number: 479
- MTFCA Life Member: YES
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Topic author - Posts: 5339
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:09 am
- First Name: Henry
- Last Name: Lee
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: Many
- Location: South Pittsburg, TN
- MTFCA Number: 479
- MTFCA Life Member: YES
Re: Adapting a TT Warford to a Conventional Model T-Part 2
We have a beautiful fit with no issues at room temperature. It should slide in and out with no drag. Some other mods I have found that assist in a good operation are converting the forward lower case bolts to counter sunk machine screws. This allows full forward motion of the hand brake mechanism. Make sure you are using the correct counter sink angle to your machine screw, they are not all the same.
Another issue I have encountered is the old locking tab. If they are loose in time the slapping will cause them to break and the forward shaft comes loose causing damage. Just clean well and apply JB Weld on to opposite sides of the nut, locking tab, and front bushing.
Another issue I have encountered is the old locking tab. If they are loose in time the slapping will cause them to break and the forward shaft comes loose causing damage. Just clean well and apply JB Weld on to opposite sides of the nut, locking tab, and front bushing.
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Topic author - Posts: 5339
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:09 am
- First Name: Henry
- Last Name: Lee
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: Many
- Location: South Pittsburg, TN
- MTFCA Number: 479
- MTFCA Life Member: YES
Re: Adapting a TT Warford to a Conventional Model T-Part 2
Here are some other unique findings, looking at the original end that was machined broached (transmission output receiver) it has a strange square round appearance. This was to allow the grease to migrate from the u-joint to keep abnormal wear from occurring as it was not a fixed shaft as we are now using. They were pretty damn smart in those days knowing things we take for granted. Now if you like, you can apply on your finger some WD-40 into that receiver well and apply some 3M Super Weather Stripping Adhesive on the "Shaft Only". Not a lot, just on the square corners. This technique acts as a damper. Doing this and using a 50/50 mix of Lucas Oil Additive with a 85-140 W lube really makes them quite and shifting a breeze.
Hope all can apply these techniques to enjoy your cars!
All the Best,
Hank
Hope all can apply these techniques to enjoy your cars!
All the Best,
Hank
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Topic author - Posts: 5339
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:09 am
- First Name: Henry
- Last Name: Lee
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: Many
- Location: South Pittsburg, TN
- MTFCA Number: 479
- MTFCA Life Member: YES
Re: Adapting a TT Warford to a Conventional Model T-Part 2
Don’t forget that all Warfords need to be supported at the rear.