MTFCA Forum

Greetings,
I have the opportunity to purchase a 1924 Model T which is fairly complete and running, but with no body. I would build a wooden body for it, were I to aquire it. So my inquiry, being a Model A fellow new to the Model T, is this:
could any of you perchance give me a foggy idea of what a Model T rolling chassis typically is going for?
I know a car is worth what your willing to pay for it, but Im trying to feel around to figure a reasonable starting point to make an offer.

Do you have any photos to post?

Rolling chassis with an engine that is not frozen up, radiator, firewall, and steering column, $1500-$2000. A "fairly complete and running chassis" $2000-$3000. A title is a nice bonus but will not change the value. Wire wheels will bump the price up another $800.

I will predict that you will have more in your car $$ after all is said and done, than if you just spend $6500 on a complete running car. However, if you just really want a wood-bodied car, good luck and report back with photos...

Be aware, that if you build a complete body out of wood, you will be hauling around several hundred more pounds than any regular T weighs. Doesn't sound like a big deal, but with <20HP, and hills, it really is a big deal. My dad has a Depot Hack in TN and with those hills, that thing is a bear to drive and isn't particularly comfortable either.

Buying a complete driver, Only and that is a BIG ONLY if you know what you are getting. There are far too many T's and A's out there that look fantastic on the out side, but are complete trash underneath. We have an A in the shop that look very presentable on the outside. I didn't ask the customer but am guessing he payed good money for it and now with everything it needs parts and labor will be about $5000 plus. Most everything under the body and fenders, what a mess. Wrong bolts, missing gaskets, transmission was loose from bellhousing, transmission case had a big crack in bottom covered with undercoating, kingpins worn, engine needs babbitt etc. Everything pretty much under the car was sprayed with under coating. Not the first one that we have dealt with like that (this is a first re-undercoating). I hope you understand what I am saying, make sure you know what you are getting if you buy a runner. Contrary to what some may say, getting the papers (title) does add value. If it does not, learn the rules for your state before you jump.
What ever you get we are here to help the best we can.
Mark
AKA; redmodelt

One thing about building it yourself is you know what you have when you're done. True, a finished one may save money. Would you enjoy the work or the more immediate driving more?

A mostly complete running chassis? One of the most enjoyable projects I've ever taken on. Made some great friends along the way. It did take two years.

I saved some money on the front end by buying exactly the body/condition that I was looking for, but with thoroughly worn out mechanicals.

I spent nearly three years going through pretty much everything suspension and mechanical related and have spent more on these things than I did to purchase the car. When I started in on this, I knew very little about Model T specific mechanical things and am now a fairly competent Model T mechanic. Not a master by any stretch, but competent enough to keep it running and repair most problems.

If I'd bought a nicer, more finished car, I don't think I'd be enjoying it as much as I am now.

In the near future, I'll overhaul the front suspension and steering, then sometime in 2020 I'll put an interior in it. At that point, I'll be closing in on having about three times my purchase price in the car and I think that's roughly about what it would be worth if I ever sold it.

.

Hello, I have to agree.
I purchased a frame, front and rear axle from a scrap yard for practically nothing.
The problem is, so many people are trying to get top dollar for every part that it drives the cost way up.
(I understand supply and demand)
Get into a club that profit is not their main goal. Make friends, get advice and get help getting good parts at a reasonable price.
Or, buy a complete running car. It will still cost the same, probably more, just one part at a time.
Good Luck, I started with one, now I have two and a half.
I'm a new guy, What do I know!!!

A title is worth $500 to a $1,000 in Maryland by itself, but then it is worthless alone, as most states are clamping down and inspecting the vehicle to verify the title now.

They are also doing it to verify you are not trying to register a Model T with a big V-8 engine and the number is not on a large data base of stolen vehicles.

My daughter bought and restored a 1974 TR-4 a few years ago and had no title problem in Indiana.

She moved to North Carolina about 8 months ago and had to have the car inspected to get a title and registration there.

As it turned out, the car had a 1975 engine number that tracked to a TR-4 stolen in 1975, according to that big data base.

She just got the matter cleared up and got a title and registration by posting a bond that would evidently repay the insurance company for their payout, if the owner could be located to verify the theft, or some other strange condition that she did not fully understand.

I purchased a car that looks very nice. It was sold as being owned by a master mechanic. The man was deceased. The first tour I went on the engine seized. When we took it apart the pistons looked like someone had filed them so they would fit in the block. I needed a complete rebuild. What I am trying to say is you dont know the insides by looking at outside. Better to purchase a known car from a club member that is running.

Bummer, guess he was not much of a "MASTER", maybe a very minor mechanic.
RE Dhort;
or at least have a paper trail of work done. I would not even count on a club members car. I know of a number of people that have bought from club members, not that the buyer was being cheated, not everyone in a club is a mechanic. Some may drive their cars on lots of tours but have no clue what is really going on under the hood.
As I said before, if the car looks great going to get ice cream or be in the local parade that is all they care about and would still call it a restored car.

Another way to protect yourself.
Get educated on the specifics of the car.
Ask questions like, "what kind of thrust washer is in the rear axle, babbit or brass?
If they get a puzzled look on their face, look out.
I know this not because I have replaced them but because I have read it is vidal this upgrade is done.
I''m no expert, far from it but I do read allot.
Have fun good luck!!