MTFCA Forum

Since the weather turned colder, I was having trouble connecting my cable to the battery. The terminal was too big for the post. No matter how much I tightened, it was not tight enough to turn the starter motor. I knew I needed something to tighten the cable against the post. I went to the parts store and low and behold there is such a part. It is a battery post shim sold in pairs. I bought a set, put it on the offending post and right away the T started like it always did. I am a happy camper. If anyone else has had this problem, here is the solution.

Thanks for that tip David. Ive never heard of them before but sure could have used them over the years. I'll have to pick some up to have on hand. Good find.

That's better than a beer can !!

What's the fun in that if you can't drink the beer !!!

Do you have it set up negative ground?

You mean like this Napa sells them in pkgs of ~25 for about a buck apiece.

For a quick fix you can drive a nail or a screw between the terminal and the post. Wouldn't recommend it for the long haul.

A good friend of mine, not too conversant with batteries though, installed his battery in backwards and had to pound the neg battery cable on to the positive terminal with a hammer and didn't notice any thing was wrong. When he started the car, it started fine, but the generator was charging backwards and that was the first thing he had noticed that he thought something was wrong. I was working in a firehall at the time with 18 other guys that had a reasonable understanding of cars and this member couldn't wait to tell his story. The uproar of laughter was overwhelming. That was over 40 years ago and I have never forgotten it.

I haven't tried this, but seems to me that it would work. Remove the bolt from the end of the battery connector and run a two sided file between the two slides. Take a few thousandths off and replace the bolt and tighten. It shouldn't take too much if it works in warm weather and then is too loose when cold.
Norm

......something about this thread reminds me of the "quote" I put in my forum profile:

"Nothing is more permanent than a temporary "fix" that WORKS!"

Adam, when I bought the car, the battery was set up with a positive ground. No problems except for the difference in post diameter. G.R., the shims I bought was something like the picture you posted. Mine was a pair for about $3.00. I went to four stores before I found what I was looking for. Two stores were out and the NAPA store never heard of battery post shims. I am glad you found that NAPA carries them. O'Reilly's had the part which were more expensive than the NAPA part.

Herald, I like your quote.

Gentlemen,

Please remember the battery post AND the connectors are LEAD. They bend very easily. If you face a situation where the bolt will not tighten the connector enough, remove the bolt, place an adjustable wrench on the widest portion of the connector to prevent it from spreading during the next step. Very carefully bend the ears outward without spreading the large center of the connector. I use a wedge/shim to start and then a screwdriver to get proper width between the ears for the bolt to clamp. The ears are often bent inward due to over tightening of the bolt to clamp the connector onto the post. Bending them back out to where they belong, often will correct the problem. If the connector is old, this will be a temporary fix and the connector should be replaced.

I have even taken a 1/4" +/-, placed it between the ears after I have bent them outwards, and tapped the large portion of the connector, with a hammer, to "squash" it just a little. This will make the "hole" a little oval and provide the ears with a little more clamping pressure.

I have found a little dielectric grease or electrically conductive contact compound will keep battery corrosion at a minimum. I have used the terminal post washers soaked with the red stuff. They work to a point but I'm not completely happy with them.

The above "fixes" will definitely be of help when you're on the road and need a quick repair. Remember to keep them clean. Even a thin film of "wet" battery scum will cause problems. BTDT!

Good Luck,
Terry

David

Now time for me to eat some crow

Just today decided to replace the battery in Lizzie, it being 5 years old and wasn't responding to multiple re-charges well.

So the old negative cable was tried, had placed on the Ford way back in '86. And the contact inside the frame at the bracket was rusted and didn't seem good, so opted to go the route of placing a new negative woven cable on the outside of the frame. Made sure to have shiny frame area for contact, and mounted the new woven cable from the favorite T parts supplier!


All fastened down now and ready for check and then start the T.
If you look now that negative terminal is squeezed so tight and even bent.....and the terminal was still loose!
Could lift it right off and there was no more travel to the bolt and nut. Seems the new negative woven cables must be metric or China measure......too big just like your problem!


So, took the cable to the bench vise, and filed the lead surfaces from both side of the open lugs of that terminal.

Now! The terminal is tight, as the filed off surface allows the clamp to travel enough to pinch on the battery post as it should


So learned a NEW one today......watch out for woven negative cables with over sized terminals

I would use the original layered ground strap. I think they were originally zinc plated. The Model A's used the same thing, but because an A has a positive ground, you would need those shims to make it work. Some of the newer cables have a P and a N on top meaning you can use them for either size cable. A long time ago I found a NOS ground strap at Hershey, and went to use it on my '25 and found it to be a Model A. I later found an original Model T ground strap, which is on the car now. Langs sells the layered ground straps, but they are copper, so to be original, you would have to get it plated. If you want to go all out, use a battery box!