Ford Faithful for an outside oil line?

[ModelTWoods]

How many T owners use a Ford Faithful transmission inspection door auxiliary oiling kit; either an original or a new reproduction? I know that many are going to say forget it and use one of the new high volume kits that require drilling the hogshead, but if you don't want to ruin a hogshead and you want to be period correct, one of these is a possible solution. Fred Houston used to say that using the original large funnel inside line, plus one of the accessory inside lines (held in place by the crankcase inspection cover) and used on both the driver's and passenger's line of the engine, PLUS a mag post oil line kit would provide plenty of oil to the front of the engine. It seems the Ford Faithful might even be better than a mag post oil line kit. What are your opinions?

[Aarongriffey]

Either Ford Facefuul Oiler provides muuuuch more oil than a magpost Oiler..
But....I think putting an outside oil line on the starter drive/bendex/cup beats them both and still does not require drilling the hogs head.

[John iaccino]

This is the one I use. Incredible amount of oil.

[Nv Bob]

I use ione like John's pictured
1 piece cast door these where made by Max Edmonds in 70ss and 80s
No holes to drill and run hollow bolt like the mag post oiler
Bendix is my second favorite way but usually not an option
as most of my T's are non starter

[AndreFordT]

Here is what I found, last year, as I bought the "1915" touring.

I don't like it because the oilline goes over the exhaust.

Andre
Belgium

[Pep C Strebeck]

Is there such a thing as "too much" oil heading for the number 1 connecting rod? I run the ubiquitous mag post oiler and a Bendix cover oil line as well running from the Bendix cover to the lower inspection pan, coming in just at the start of the radius for the number 1 valley.

I also modified the inspection cover like the one that was shown and discussed by Terry Horlick in the thread that is linked below. Unfortunately I do not have any pictures of my version of his "mountain pan" that is in my T. I think that with the original internal oil line, mag post oiler, Bendix cover oil line and the modified inspection pan I am doing O.K. but more oil is always better for that number 1 rod, especially if you run/drive on hills. Ten years of driving through Northern Michigan hills and no problems as of yet (knock-on-wood, kenehora). If I were going to add another, I would opt for the internal oil line that attaches to the inspection pan bolts.


http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/25 ... 1344799117

[RajoRacer]

Andre - the oil line should exit the oiler & go under the pipe and yes, I run original Ford Faithful Oiler's on all 5 of our T's - built in debris screen and with the topography here in the Pacific Northwest, a little lubrication insurance to the front of the engine is good !

Only drawback to the F.F. footplate (oil inlet to c.c.) is when one does a full oil change service requiring dropping the lower cover (where the footplate attaches) to remove the lower cover retainers (horse shoes), it needs to be removed also requiring new gaskets being made. I just "modified" the F.F. oiler on the '14 Touring which I drilled into the side of the c.c. just adjacent to #1 rod trough & installed a fitting to receive high pressure, high heat reinforced racing oil cooler hose - no leaks & no interference removing the lower cover - photos will come later.

[RajoRacer]

Here's how I modified my oiler set-up.

[Mark Gregush]

I was thinking along the lines of Steve's photo when I install one on my 25.

[AdminJeff]

After winning the "worst triple gear failure ever seen" award and burning up a couple of #1 rod bearings driving up my hill, I now have all three extra oilers. Ford faithful, drilled hogshead and the mag post oilier. And I installed Dan Mckearchen's needle bearing triple gear mod. To be fair, my 1/2 mile hill to my house is insane and I drive up it multiple times a day because I drive this car A LOT. Not your typical T driving habits, for sure. I have about 1000 miles on this setup since Sept, and so far so good.

Your mileage will vary. Mine certainly did.

Jeff

[Scott_Conger]

Jeff, If it really is that steep, then you are still probably not getting the oil to the front that you think you are, and even if you were, it's not staying where you need it for long enough.

Consider placing dams into your pan.

Something along that line is here: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/25 ... 1344799117

[lesvonnordheim]

I consider the Ford Faithful oiler with a 3/8" line going to the front side of the pan a better choice compared to a mag. post oiler. However, an outside oil line (1/2") going from the hogs head to the pan beats them all except for an oil pump. Approx. 20 yrs. ago, I drilled/tapped a 3/4" NPT thread where the mag. post was once located and then reduced it to 1/2" going to the front side of the pan. In the 20 yrs. of touring, I have not needed to do ANY bearing adjustments. I also run 400 clutch disks and Kevlar lined bands using 10-30 synthetic oil. All this time using an old stock clutch spring with no slippage. When my engine is warmed up, you can not grip the 1/2" oil line with bare hands and hold on to it.....so I know it is flowing oil.

I also do not run magnets or slingers on the flywheel......The flywheel/ring gear seems to be a great oil pump for this set up. Not suggesting that you follow what I have done. There are numerous steep hills where I live.

Just sharing what is working for me and other local friends running a similar set up.

Les

[AdminJeff]

Jeff, If it really is that steep, then you are still probably not getting the oil to the front that you think you are, and even if you were, it's not staying where you need it for long enough.
Consider placing dams into your pan. Something along that line is here: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/25 ... 1344799117

Yup, it's really that Steep. Ask Andy Clary or Steve Nelson.

Ok, now Terry Horlick has a pretty interesting idea... I have a few extra 4 dips. I think I'll start on this mod. It also looks like the dam on #4 could be built into the back horseshoe instead of brazing it to the pan. I also have some extra pans and horseshoes so ill experiment with that.
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B7F900DF-FDBB-40C3-9EAD-553BD0BCA9E1.png (245.6 KiB) Viewed 5482 times

What I found even more intriguing in that post was this idea for "horseshoe handles". Makes me want to go right out and change my oil!
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5E73151B-750A-4EE8-AB40-B6792EDADA29.png (193.89 KiB) Viewed 5482 times

And this looks like a cool project for my "new" lathe. Layden Butler found these in his dads toolbox. Spring on the side, so you just push the plate up in place and it is held while you start the bolts.
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I'm really glad Chris and I take the time to maintain the old site info. There really is invaluable insight there, and I'm always discovering new stuff.

AdminJeff

[Henry K. Lee]

Yes Jeff, I think you need what Scott recommended. I live on a mountain road too but probably not as steep as yours. If you need metal formed on my machines, give me a shout. That rear one could be formed as a one piece pinch style.

All the Best,

Hank

[Henry K. Lee]

Scott brought up a good point, if the rod is starving, that poor cam is starving lube too.

Hank

[AdminJeff]

Yes Jeff, I think you need what Scott recommended. I live on a mountain road too but probably not as steep as yours. If you need metal formed on my machines, give me a shout. That rear one could be formed as a one piece pinch style.

All the Best,

Hank

Now that I look at it, my pan/brake rollers are too big. The radius needs to pretty tight or the crank/rods won't be happy.

Jeff

[Henry K. Lee]

I use a high dollar machine called a Proformer. Not only does it stretch but it will shrink the metal down making very tight radiuses. Not an issue.

Hank

[TRDxB2]

What causes the oil to flow through the oil lines for these various options?