MTFCA Forum

I recently acquired a POS 1915 touring, which is partially disassembled. The good news is, it's a real '15, not a conversion. Anyway, three of the body bolts were missing, and the early ones are a non standard size, using an 11/16 across the head bolt. Yea, I know I could easily slip in a 5/8 non standard bolt, and no one would ever question it, but I'm not that kind of a T guy. So, here is how I solved the problem. I used flywheel bolts. They have the correct head, but I had to fill the safety wire hole on all of them. Next, the length had to be shortened, which I did on my lathe. All of them required a cotter pin hole, and the early bolts had a radius at the bottom which I also did. Now I can rest easier!

Does anyone have a diagram of what bolts and/or brackets go where? Suppliers have part number to application but lack information on dimensions. If you have some info please post it to this thread. If a list isn't available I will make one. I have several sets of data but they all lack the bolt dimensions (diameter, length, treads, etc). Same is true for body o frame brackets etc This diagram shows were things go, tools used, and head size but no part# this is a list of parts hardware but lacks dimensions.

I would sure like to find some correct 3088 engine pan bolts & nuts.

: ^ )

If I had them I wouldn't know - how thick should the head be?

Hank-
They are a 1/4-28 square head bolt, I think 1/2" across the flats. I don't know how thick the head should be.
Although they are drilled for a cotter pin, they use square nuts! The parts catalogs say they are 9/16" long, RV says they should be 25/32" long.
I believe this is a picture of Rich Eagle's craftsmanship, along with an original on the left. He said the original in the photo is 0.720" long, but he said that he would expect some variation.
I have not seen a drawing for these bolts, but it only goes through the frame and a thin piece of sheet metal for the pan. A couple of them also hold the gas lamp clamps which might add a total of another 1/16" so I were to manufacture them, I'd be inclined to go with 9/16" long.

: ^ )

Keith

FWIW I just measured the head of nut and bolt and they are 3/8" across flats. The bolt head is .178 high and nut is .186 high. This is the rusty bolt and nut shown at lower left. They were taken from a 1913 frame with the tube clamps. No pans were present at that time but I am assuming those were the original bolt and nut. My '14 frame had the same although the bolt was a smidgen longer, .740.

I second the request from Mart for a pic or two Larry. Would you?
This thread has also turned interesting for me as these thoughts can be used for some OT applications where the correct hardware size isn't available.
Seems as if I'm becoming a "rivet counter" of sorts on a different wavelength (OT)...
Ooh, a piece of 11/16" hex-shaft from work for 5/16" nuts and 9/16" square key stock for machine bolts.
This 1911 machine will do it, albeit slow.
1018-1045 sound about right for square head machine bolts?
Sorry for the intrusion.

I don't know if I can post any pictures of this bolt, as they are now on the car! There are three on each side. The front and rear are the same size . The center one is about 1/16" longer. The early 13's had a much longer rear body bolt to go through the cast iron frame bracket. I had to have one of those made recently, as I discarded the bad one 50+ years ago. Came out real nice, but a lot of work. None of these bolts are standard any longer.

Keith

a very close match for pan bolts, which could be altered easily: http://www.blacksmithbolt.com/store/p/1 ... Oxide.aspx

and nuts: http://www.blacksmithbolt.com/store/p/1 ... Oxide.aspx