MTFCA Forum

I will just call this a build thread.
I must admit,speedster kits come about a little differnt around Mack's Garage.
First, the family buys land in 1969 with a bunch of trees on it and then 1 of them dies about 2010 and falls on a nieghbors fence about 2017
Then I bring the logs out from the woods and they lay around a while longer.
Do you see a speedster yet?

My dad sawed the biggest log to make sure I got about 5 2x4's and the other stuff I felt I needed. I have about 14 1x12's already cut but for whatever reason the guy that sawed them for me did not leave any 1x4's or anything.The log I got them from was WAY to big for me and my 85 year old dad to handle.I actually had the guy come up with his Caterpiller rubber tired loader to pick it up.It wa about 22 inches accross and green.
.But we managed these.You wouldn't think anything useful could come from these logs.
So now I should have enough lumber to make the speedster body for sure.
I sawed the 2 small logs myself with my dad offbearing the slabs.

I took the fenders,and trunk and stuff to get sandblasted this morning.I am trying a different company this time.May not have been a good idea but we will see. he quoted nearly 300 bucks for 3 fenders,4 running boards, the trunk,splash aprons radiator shroud,and running board brackets for the chassis. Said the rust was old and heavy.DUH< it is 100 year old stuff! There was a 55 ford truck cab being unloaded as I was unloading.They do alot of car parts.
That was my entire budget for January nearly was the 300 bucks! Hopefully ebay sales will pickup!

Now thats a build. Not just starting with a pile of boards but a pile of logs. Any plans to smelt some iron ore? Looking forward to another build to follow. Keep us posted Mack.

Well,actually I do have a freind that builds his own model engines,like a working model of the 4 cylinder Snow engine and such.He has ask me to come help him cast some aluminum parts for a project next spring.
If I was younger,I would be building me a daily driver in my shop. Cab and all.But i aint in the shape to do it now.I just piddle.
If I had my shop and plenty of money in my youth,I woulda been turning out a lot of wierd stuff!

A friend built this V-8 from scratch. Sparkplugs and plug wires are the only thing he did not build. Oh ya, the radiator is a heater core. Over 2000 hours to build it. Running race fuel in it and it has that V-8 sound.

Love it!

I have just been piddling on this project the past couple weeks. Finally after alot of head scratching,decided to try to use the original cowl that came with the 26 chassis.I found a decent 26 hood in my stash I have NO idea where it came from or what But that and the cowl will fix me up.I only have 1 high radiator and the old radiator shroud which is rough but I will see what I can do with them.
In the mean time,I wanted to play with head lights.The buckets were shot,the bar is usable along with the brackets on the buckets.
So here is what I did.

Have 1 of each in same condition - yours if you want to pay the shipping

I am covered on the headlights.I had the 2 buckets from the 26 chassis and several of the normal older type and I have both brackets installed on both buckets now.Gota put 1 in the electrolosis bucket and clean it.By the way, I did rivot the brackets on the buckets, not bolts.I went to Tractor supply and bought a little box of rivots used on sickle bar mowers and had to cut them off a bit.

I kinda changed my direction on this thing to include as much of the original parts that came with the chassis as I could with in reason.

Mack - Using as many of the original parts as possible as you said, seems to me to be the right was to build a speedster that is as similar as possible to the way they were built during the depression era. Not sure if the term "period correct" is applicable to speedsters, but when you think about it, I think that's what it was all about back then. Nobody had any $$$ during the depression, so I think the first thought in regard to speedsters was usually what to do about getting rid of everything possible so as to reduce weight, and then use as much of the original Model T as possible without spending anymore $$$ than you had to! Thanks for taking time and effort to let us follow along with your "project",.....harold

.....dang it! ....the right WAY,.....not "the right was"! My "poof-reading" is as bad as my typing!

Yeah, Harold S, I usually use the term "era correct", but it is basically the same thing. Speedsters can be "restored" to represent just about any era from the brass era, the roaring twenties when speedsters really had "their day", or the barnyard cruisers or full out racing cars built from model Ts in the depression days. Speedsters were speedsters (by whatever any name they were popularly called). However, all the different eras had different popular methods and/or accessories, leading to somewhat different styles. And of course, anyone can build a T speedster today based upon the styles, colors, and repro parts popular today. I have said for many years now that building and driving a model T speedster is one of the longest running automotive hobbies in the world! They were first built in 1908 (by Ford's experimental team), and they have been built in every calendar year since, 112 years now.

Harold, I agree with you - Period Hot Rods (that is what Speedster is) need to be an image of those in the era they are meant to represent. A friend of mine built a '32 bodied roadster like it would have been built in the early '50s. I asked if he intended to paint it (its in gray primer), his answer, "NO, back then a teenager would have spent his money on a performance part over paint". If you look at pictures of speedsters from the 1910's & 20's the only ones with a paint job are the cars of the performance part manufacturers. When the Syverson Cabinet Company started to product the "Speedster Body Kit" they may have intended to represent a notable racer of the time as kit cars often do. So many of today's Speedsters are more a representation on ones built in the '60s and '70s. I have included some pictures that correspond to what I have said. So my point is we build our cars to a period in time they are to represent - not always the time that they were built.

And I tried to support your point of view Wayne as well. Forgot to add that.

Thank you Frank B ! I thought everything you said was perfect!

I thought I would post these so folks might could help me fiqure out if by some chance this is the right shell or ?
Anyhow,this cowl sheet metal came with the chassis,this hood was in my stash,the shell,close as I could find in my stash.
I aint sure if it is right and it is about rougher than even I want to tackle.
Bear in mind I will be using 25 style fenders and such so that won't be a match to this sheet metal but I think I can make all that work,it is just the rad shell I am concerned about.Thus the reason I posted a ad for a cheap 1 that I will Know for certian is for the 26-7 application.

That should make a fine speedster! I don't think that shell looks too bad. Although a better one would take less time to rework and make nice. The fit between it and the hood and cowl looks good to me.
I wish I had a better shell to offer, but almost everything I have is low style, too early. The only high shell I do have is a '26/'27 nickel plated one in terrible condition. Bent, broken, and upper panel missing. I do have a project I was planning to use it on, but that project was set aside over ten years ago.

I have two high shells. The lacing holes for the one being painted has notches and the nickle one are round. I tried to line up the sides as best I could. There is a noticeable difference in the crown (see photos). Now my shells aren't perfect but wouldn't this difference cause a hood to sit differently on a shell assuming the side panels were freely hanging.

Thank you,that is what I needed to see,so there is a difference in tje 2 shells
Thank you for posting those 2 pics.Now I know that I need 1.
This shell is not to bad,but I would hate to fix it and it not fit.
I have a perfect low shell with it's little piece along the bottom and a really nice radiator for it.But the hood was going to be a night mare.I had worked on that problem a couple years back.Trying to extend a few pieces of old hood panels I had laying around to make them a 1 and a bit more longer to line up with the wood fire wall. After messing with this thing and hauling my T pickup on the trailer last week,I decided that wood firewall was just not strong enough. I watched the steering column on my pickup kinda shake some times.Made me think,"Hum,wood wouldn't take that much." I am going to put a steering column brace on the pickup as soon as I can figure out why it won't lay flat against the firewall and lay on the column correctly at the same time. Same was happening this speedster column,the brace will not fit correctly on both ends with the plywood firewall.But with this 26 cowl,it has a brace built into the dash panel.Problem solved.

Well,here is a bit of progress. Can't see it really but the front fender mounting has been figured out, new king pins and bushings and all the cotter pins in the front end. Figuring out lay out of the rear fender as I want them lower and more centered over the wheels than stock.running boards will be shorter as well as the splash aprons. All the parts I am using are not of the fineist quality so it is not like I am butchering good parts.this stuff was RUSTY and is pitted,cracked and bent. Alot of work.
BUT it will come along.
I am not in cahoots with any Model A folks but if I had 2 old spare tire wells from 28-9 model A it would sure make another idea alot easier to make happen.

Well that steel shell that didn't look real bad after a few days in the electrolosis tank ,i think most of it is still in the tank!
I found a brass- was nickle plated shell in my junk that was BADLY bent and had a hole in it and such.I have pecked on it some and brazed the hole up. If push comes to shove I will finish it and paint it and hope for the best.
Head light buckets are painted along with rims. Just using regular paint,nothing fancy.
Tax refund is coming next week,and I have my parts list wrote up but I can't go broke! I will get some of the parts I need this month and some next month.
Removing the old bushings is all that is left to do before the transmission can be rebushed and put together.Had to scare up parts from 3 different 1's to get usable parts.
Starter is ready for it's new rear bushing,generator ready for a insolator and new cutout. I got all new stainless valves in the engine last week.
Shame I had to change the old 1's they were perfect shape,like they had never been run,ANd my adjustment was MUCH better with the old 1's. The new 1's are short and didn't allow me to get a good adjustment,I think most are around 15 to 18 thousandths.

Just alot of small task done.

Looking good Mack!

Well,I got my batch of parts for March work saturday. Will be able to fix the transmission and mount it up in the coming weeks.I got the screws for magnets and bushings for the transmission and the little peices for starter and generator and such.I will be able to make visable progress this month. I thought I would show the final appearence on the headlight job.
.

Well I have a nice little hernia now I think from picking this thing up and putting it in the press to compress the clutch spring.
But at least this part of the jig saw puzzle was assembled over the weekend.
I know my methods and such can't produce a 100% back to factory spec transmission.BUT the way I figure it I took parts and made a good transmission that should in theory operate like it had a few 1000 miles on it. Perhaps not "perfect" but functional. and affordable for my very limited budget.
There are 2 questions I need to ask, this thing is heavy,I actually did hurt myself lifting it. I have a shop crane,a chain fall and the engine is on a stand although I will need to level it as the engine is tilted back slightly.
How do you safely lift the trans on and off the engine for setting the air gap?
And my dad ask a good question, what keeps the brass screws from backing out slightly when you peen the backside? Which i know I need to do yet,but since he ask, and I couldn't answer,I figured i would ask here.

The brass screws should extend about 1/16 inch or only slightly more beyond the surface of the gear. A simple light hit or two with a medium ball peen hammer should be sufficient to keep the screws from backing out. Ford factory used a "waffle" punch, which gives a better spread. A center punch could help also. However you chose to do it, the screw should be spread SLIGHTLY to where it exits from the ring gear. It should NOT be beaten down or hit hard! That could result in a fracture of the ring gear, or the brass screw below the surface of the gear which could allow the peened end to fall off and allow the screw to back out without warning. You don't want that!

Thank you Mack! I enjoy reading of your progress!

ok, thanks . I finally got the engine on a stand that it is level on instead of leaned back.
So now I am trying to figure out how to safely lift the transmssion.I am not in pain but that little knot that has come up in not so good a place is letting me know it is there and does not want to be disturbed.

Always be very careful with lifting! I have never had any real back problems, and often lifted things one shouldn't. However, I have known many people with serious back issues, including my wife, my father, and two of my longtime best friends (one missed my wedding 43 years ago because he was in traction at the time!). As I get older, I find I can no longer lift or carry many of the things I used to.
Ramps, levers, any sort of hoists, and hand trucks (dollies), are all all your friends! A little creative placement and leverage can work wonders! Be careful with things like come-alongs and ropes with pulleys that whatever they are attached to above is strong enough and secure! Also make certain they are not lifting more than they are designed to! (Come-alongs generally are not rated for direct lifting, but actually can if proper care is taken and the pulling cable goes at least two turns around the ratcheted shaft.) We don't want transmissions landing on your foot, or worse. A "two ton" come-along should NEVER be used to lift more than about three hundred pounds! Horizontal "pull" is NOT the same as "lift". (That is why the manufacturer's lawyers say "never used to lift".)
I don't use it very often, but my Harbor Freight heavy duty engine hoist has paid for itself several times over. The biggest problem with it, is that it really doesn't lift high enough. A roughly four foot lift can't reach a three foot high workbench with a foot and a half tall motor!

Be careful my friend!

I have 1 of the old green Carolina 2 ton shop engine cranes. It does not fold up like the harbor freight 1's but it is a good lift. My dad has a Coffing chain fall,that I am going to hang from the engine crane so I can make a straight up and down pull on the transmission. I am just trying to find a way to hook it up to the chain


Yea to add insult to injury,I had a old rusted flywheel that had some spools on it and plates and I had put it in the shop to remove some spools to save having to file them all down the same size, I measured a stack of them and got all of them withing .002 of the same length thinking that will help me set the air gap later. I decided yesterday evening to carry that old flywheel out the door and back down the "back 40 pile". I couldnt hold it and open the door and dropped it.I managed to get my foot out of the way,but it caught my left knee and left teeth marks, and my right shin leaving teeth marks and put teeth marks in the concrete!
So I am sore all over!

Oh ouch! I am glad it wasn't worse, but still? I guess now you have to recheck the magnet/plates heights? And that shin will throb for a week!

I didn't drop the finished unit,I dropped a clunker I had removed parts from. The good 1 is safely on a table waiting on me to figure out how to lift it!Thank goodness I didn't drop the finished 1,had I dropped it,you woulda heard me clear out there in Califunny squalling like a baby!

Best way to handle the trans is to use a ring with three chains hooked into the Magnet bolt holes.

so you took 3 brass screws out of the flywheel and used those holes?

Yes. I took some "S" hooks from the hardware store and bent one end and hooked into the magnet, ring gear holes. For the ring on top make sure to get one rated to hold the weight. I think the one I found was rated for 900 lbs. Open the end of the chain up to put on the ring and close. I took this shot when i was taking the transmission off for rebuild.

No pics at this time but engine is in the frame.
I got a good repairable radiator shell today in the mail ! Thanks Dale!
Made a good trade on a reverse eye rear spring that will be taken care of as soon as all this stay at home order thing is history.

You're welcome, Mack. I'm happy it's going to be used.

No pictures but the transmission hoghead is on,starter is on and it sputtered on a quick squirt of starting fluid after I spun the engine over a good bit with the plugs out. Plenty of compression that is for sure.Also when plugs were out, tried the pedels, got 2 forwards and 1 reverse! I have been a little iffy on having the rear axle right but not worried now.
Side note, If you have any of those plastic stackable lawn chairs Don't trust them.
I had a nice red tall "anarondac" spelling, chair out beside the shop for the past couple years. I would go sit in it and rest a while.Until monday 2 weeks ago.The back broke out of it and since I was leaning back a little,it threw me out of the chair and flat of my back with my head against the block wall of the shop. I have been VERY sore the past couple weeks but finally getting a bit better. I was told that if 1 of those chairs is out in the sun,it goes bad quick.
BE careful,had I been a couple inches closer to the building,I would be a vegitable or a goner.

Be careful Mack!! We need you!

tdump wrote: ↑

Wed Apr 15, 2020 8:17 pm

No pics at this time but engine is in the frame.
I got a good repairable radiator shell today in the mail ! Thanks Dale!
Made a good trade on a reverse eye rear spring that will be taken care of as soon as all this stay at home order thing is history.

I look forward to getting the other part as well Mack glad it worked for both of us your speedster is gonna be really nice.

Well this photo looks to be a 100 years old but I just took it.I had to lighten it up with software.
But the chassis is painted, The fenders will also be the dark green,the hood,rad shell,cowl and such will be the color of the coil box.
a much lighter greenish.Can't remember the color name.
Gota long ways to go. I switched out the wheels to my pickup as the blue wheels were not going to look right.and the pickup could have purty much any color wheels and not clash. So that is why the wheels and tires may look familar to you.
I wanted british raceing green but that would be exspensive and the chassis has pits in it anyway. It will be ok I think. I wish I could find the photo of the brass speedster I found online that gave me the idea for this paint scheme. it was a brass car.
Anyhow,here is a bad photo.Also,a pic of the chair that broke from under me,I am still hurting from that! If you have a chair like this, PITCH IT INTO THE DUMPSTER!

T is looking really good!

Some things simply SHOULD NOT be made out of plastic! Chairs like that are one of them. The plastic deteriorates for a variety of reasons (did you know that many plastics SHRINK as they age?), and the item becomes brittle. I have known several people that had those chairs break under them! A few were mildly hurt (now adding Mack to the list!).

Maybe if they drank less beer the chair would not break. From all that leaning backwards.

Hehehe, In my case Mt Dew,I can't stand alkehaul.
I got a stick of 14 gauge 2 inch square tubing today to make the sub frame of the body for the T. I have some of the nice brackets that bolt to wood.But I think since i am making a steel outer frame,I will cut some angle iron for brackets to the chassis and weld them to what I am making.I was going to use oak ,like a 2x4,but the rear fenders I am using were requiring to much notching to fit,weaking the board.

just a progress photo or 2

Was lookin over yur pics and noticed a familiar situation...
I ran this exact same lowering setup in my speedster for a while (home made Laurel lowering brackets with a cut down spring perch and a late wishbone). If you run fenders you may never notice... but you are going to have a LOT of caster in the front axle. By moving the front axle in front of the spring perch, there is now substantial leverage to twist the front spring and wishbone ends causing the caster angle to change dependent on load.

If you put a block of wood on your floor jack, and lift the chassis from the front spring mount... you will see the front axle caster angle change dramatically as the weight on the front axle changes. A simple double wishbone attached to the top of the axle will remedy the situation, and make for a much safer design. I eventually made new brackets to eliminate the cut down perches, but still run the same double wishbone

The increased caster from lowering the front end also makes it very hard to steer. I converted mine to 5-1 steering gears to help compensate, which helped a lot, but you still get a workout on a long drive.

Double wish bone? Um, now would be a good time to educatae me on that since it is not finished yet!
5 to 1 steering already fixed for it.To be honest, i wish I had NOT changed to that on the pickup,as with the big steering wheel it seems almost to sensitive in the steering.

Hours spent to get the cowl useable. Parts of 3 to make 1! most of this cowl I am trying to use is from this chassis. But the others were cut off as in for a short dog tractor or whatever best I can tell.
Strange how it was all torn up around where the gas tank comes out,a long crack along the bottom of it,holes and cracks all around where the steering column mounts.And the other 2 were WORSE than this 1. I don't know how they get in such a shape.I rivoted in the side pieces as the old 1's were bent, and the other cowl had good 1's.
Lousy pictures but progress is very slow.You will notice some 2x2 tubeing clamped onto the chassis.I am working out in my mind how to make a subframe.But I have to get the other peices decent before hand.
ALSO, A 1926 dash panel. Does anyone have a close up picture of what the slot-hole for the steering column is supposed to look like?
This is the only dash I have and it is not in "perfect shape" to say the least but I can repair it. I kinda wanted to use that nice insturment cluster with a switch on it but I hate to cut this dash up after I do all the work to fix it!
The radiator shell is turning out good. Needs some more high build primer,several coats,and sanding. Came clean using electrolosis .

couple of pictures

Ok,so I will need to make that little bolted on peice,Best I can tell the coiumn is just loose in the hole?

It appears the curved portion of that hole for the column has a lip turned to the inside for strength best I can tell from the pic.

tdump wrote: ↑

Mon May 25, 2020 10:52 pm

Ok,so I will need to make that little bolted on peice,Best I can tell the coiumn is just loose in the hole?

It appears the curved portion of that hole for the column has a lip turned to the inside for strength best I can tell from the pic.

The column in my '26 Runabout passes through the hole and does not touch the metal dash. You are correct that there is a flange, about 1/4" deep around the hole. The part that goes under column also has two holes in its bottom flange for screws. They go through the two holes under your dash.

Thanks for the help folks.
I sent off 4 Ford coils to be rebuilt today for the May parts budget.

Ok,I think I have the top of the opening a bit to "square" and will have to kinda hammer a curveature into it to make it wrap around the colum a bit nicer but I got some done.A couple days in the electrolsis tub and a wire brush on a grinder made it clean and bare.I cut out a portion and welded in new metal. Won't have to use much filler but the whole surface has light pitting so it will need it..I hate that stuff but when you are making chicken salad out of chicken manure you sometimes add seasoning to cover the smell!

Here is a picture of the bracket that goes on he underside of the dash to support the steering column. The dip is for the horn wire

OK that is what I needed to see.Thank you Sir!
Looks like a bit of hammering and bending to make that!

No progress has been made in the past few months.To busy fixing lawnmowers for neighbors and so forth.BUT I did order a radiator hose kit and such today. Got some hoodshelves to work on today to.

Long overdue,but I did get the cowl and a roadster turtle deck sandblasted this week.I had got busy doing other things and just haven't done much at all to this project. Partly because these parts were rusty and my vat for electrolosis was to small.
BUT for what it cost to get these 3 pieces blasted ,I am now looking for some kind of a plastic tank big enough for parts of this type!

Well I finally got both sides of the bottom of the cowl frame work finished today.
There is parts from 4 different 1's on this 1 frame work!
I do have a couple questions.
1, how thick are the wooden blocks used between the body frame work and the chassis?
2, is there any kind of washer or anything between the very front body mounts and the chassis?
3, Why isn't there body mounts riveted to the chassis for that last crossmember in the body frame work? This frame work came with the chassis and there was bolts in the holes that I had to cut off. So I can't understand the lack of rivet holes in the chassis or body mounts.

I have got to make a crossmember for the 1 that is missing and replace a few rusted sections of the body frame work before I can use it. I have scratched my head long enough and couldn't come up with a frame work idea that seemed feesable,so I dug the old frame work from out behind the barn.the front section of this body frame work was rusted off, and more will be removed when I weld the parts on the cowl to it.

As for the rear fenders,I am going to be cutting down a set like i did for my pickup. Alot of work to make the back side straight like the outside.kinda like a pickup fender.
requires a bad fender for parts to cut out of it to weld into the usable fenders.I don't have any 26-7 sheet metal and don't like the looks of it anyway,to modern looking for a T

Also,for the folks with Keen eyes,no those are not 26-7 splash aprons. It took me several hours of welding and grinding to move the rear mounting hole on a 25 back set of aprons so they would bolt to the 26 chassis.

Well a good bit has been done since the last post.pictures are in the wrong order,
I can't put into words how many hours I have in this frame work but it is now painted and finished ,ready for the cowl sheet metal to be repaired and installed. It is just stored on the chassis, I am thinking it will be easier to install the sheet metal cowl and fuel tank and etc while it is on the table frame when I get those parts ready.
Oh yea,in case you are wondering why GREEN, the brass car that inspired my color choice,I finally found a pick,
I have NO idea who's car it is,but this is what gave me the color idea. I wanted something different.

Just my opinion, but I am thinking if the hubs were black and the rims were black it would make the natural spokes and the whitewalls stand out a lot more. I love the two colors of green in that picture. They go together well. Ask a woman who knows color. That is why I check with my daughter to see if the colors match and are balanced. Again, just what I see. I love what you have done so far.

Looking good Mack!
I am always pleased to see updates on your projects.

I know this does not look like much but I finally got to start piddling again at this thing.
I got the body frame work bolted to the chassis. Steering colum bolted in, and I have made a BUNCH of wood shavings.
I had a stack of white oak lumber dad and me had cut back in 1995 that I was going to use on my 1 ton T truck project for a flat bed.Well,it twisted warped and etc,and plus I found the dump bed,and the rest is history, but that lumber was still stacked up behind the shop. I decided to use it for this project since I needed short peices and could deal with twisted and warped wood that way.
there is ALOT more work to go but it is a start.
The boards will set down inside the frame work,resting on a 5/8ths "lip". I will also put a strip of wood attached to the frame work to further support the wood going sideways.
Hard to explain but it might make sense after I get started.My planner failed and I had to borrow 1 to finish,I will have to slide the stuff back thru on a light pass just to clean up some spots. The feed gear box is shot,the gears were slipping,letting the blade sit in 1 place to long.

Good to see that you are still at it Mack!

Looking good Mack!

I took a break from it and worked on other projects for a while. Hope to work on it for at least this month and next,before the lawnmowers take over. got 3 now for repairs.of course that is how the Tparts get bought, from those repair jobs!

Well here is a update on the wood,most of it is roughly fitted .
And a photo of my gas tank solder job!

I finally will try to get back on this project next month.I squrrield some money back and took a trip to town with this gas tank to see about getting it cleaned.
275 bucks! they said. I brought it back home.
I think no worse than it is on the inside i will get a gallon of evaporust and some por 15 and do it my dang self for less.Just put a fuel bowl on it with a screen. That is just a ubsurd amount of money to throw a tank in a vat,dry it out and swirl some stuff in it and call it done.It wouldn't be so bad if there was actual man hours involved but it is soak and wait,pour twist and wait. I can do that at home!

Well this came today by brown truck, makes 4 gallons of rust remover.
Wish me luck!
https://www.rust911.com/rust-remover-16 ... r-rubbers/
I will mix a gallon and try it on 1 of the small gas tanks I need to repair for small engines and see how well it actually works first. I will be using distilled water because i am afraid the water from our well has minerals in it that will "use up" some of the chemicals ability before it ever gets a start.

Well i mixed 2 gallons worth of the Rust911 and used it on some small Briggs and stratton gas tanks, it works but honestly, I don't know if it is really that good or not. It will take another jug like this 1 to make a total of 6 gallons of mix I can put in my T tank and just stand it up in different positions for several days each way and let it soak I guess. Cheaper than 275!

Throw an old chain or some nuts and bolts, gravel in that tank with the rust remover. You can shake it from time to time to get some abrasion with the chemical strip.

Well this thing has sat around for a while untouched, I finally did get the splash aprons and some old running boards bolted in place. Finally gave up and just went and paid the 225 to have the fuel tank done and got it back today. they used Redcote,which I HATE, i was hoping they had used Por15.
redcote will die the gasoline. and if it does that ,that means to me it is breaking down. But they garrenteed it to be functional and they are the only game in town for this type work. I hated to spend the money as i felt it was way to much for the small tank that really was not bad inside. I just wanted to make SURE i didn't have any problems later as the tank is no fun to get out of a assembled car

I also have discovered to my dismay, I will not be able to use the lowering brackets I made for the front axle. When I first assembled all that stuff, I did not have the engine in it, just by chance I looked down at the tie rod and wishbone and NOPE aint gonna work WAY to close. I have looked at 2 books on speedsters and can't see any solution to the issue but to find a good pair of 26-7 spring perches and just be happy with the reverse eye springs front and rear giving me a inch of lowering.

Any reason you cant bend the tierod to clear or cut the wishbone and relocate to the frame? Model A tie rod ends work well for this, good idea also to attach to top and bottom of the axle.

Other methods for lowering would be a drop axle (varied amount) or chevy spindles.

Overland tie rods had heavy Z brackets to lower the tie rod about 2” below the steering arms. They are a bit larger than T stuff, but you may consider making something similar. T steering arms can be reshaped with a little heat, but they will get short quick so may not be a good option.

Model A steering arms are an easy swap. They require a couple extra mods and you would need to run the A rod ends. Did this on my speedster and all works good. For additional clearance I cut the arms in half and flipped the ball to the bottom. This lowers the tie rod about 2-1/2”. The tie rod just barely clears the wishbone… just don’t have any room for paint! These pics don’t show much, but it’s the best I’ve got right now

You can also gain some clearance by swapping the steering arms side to side and flipping them. I had to do that on my speedster. I have a set of Laurel style brackets on it.