Getting Rattles Back On The Road
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
- Joined: Sat Jan 12, 2019 9:24 pm
- First Name: Robert
- Last Name: Govoni
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Thanks Scott. I think I may go the sealer rout. I'm going to give it one more try.
Mark I'll fix the headlight rope.
Mark I'll fix the headlight rope.
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Robert - I double clamped it with a modern clamp for a couple drives - removed modern clamp - been fine since.
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
I like that idea!! I also found that the rod that goes into the radiator is not able to be threaded into the radiator. So It's causing the radiator to lean forward some. I'm going to cut 1/4 inch off and take up the adjustment on the firewall.
I also filled it with oil from the transmission cover. It started to drip out of the top petcock so now I'm going to jack up the back of the car and let it flow to the front and then check it again.
Almost read to start. I bumped the starter motor and it turned the engine. So that's a plus.
I also filled it with oil from the transmission cover. It started to drip out of the top petcock so now I'm going to jack up the back of the car and let it flow to the front and then check it again.
Almost read to start. I bumped the starter motor and it turned the engine. So that's a plus.
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
So I discovered some more.
The rod that goes between the top of the radiator and the firewall is too long and is pushing the radiator forward. I also saw that the rod is too small in diameter at the tank. So I have the wrong rod or someone brazed the wrong size receptacle on the tank. I cut the rod so it won't push the tank forward and tried the clamps again. Nope did't work.
Next up I'm off to the parts store to get two hose clamps. I looked in my stash of clamps but had non that would fit. I also saw that I need to get the clamp close to the tank to make it over the bulge in the neck.
It's going to go we didn't get this far to be stopped by a leak. Ha!!!
The rod that goes between the top of the radiator and the firewall is too long and is pushing the radiator forward. I also saw that the rod is too small in diameter at the tank. So I have the wrong rod or someone brazed the wrong size receptacle on the tank. I cut the rod so it won't push the tank forward and tried the clamps again. Nope did't work.
Next up I'm off to the parts store to get two hose clamps. I looked in my stash of clamps but had non that would fit. I also saw that I need to get the clamp close to the tank to make it over the bulge in the neck.
It's going to go we didn't get this far to be stopped by a leak. Ha!!!
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
One of my senior friends (RIP now) taught me to put a light smear of water pump grease on the inside of the hose at each end. The grease allows the hose to be easily installed and removed without damage to the hose. It also allows the hose to seat nicely, providing a seal for tiny leaks at the radiator and head fittings when clamped.
I have used the grease method for a lot of years now with good success.
I have used the grease method for a lot of years now with good success.
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
I think I solved it for now. I got some modern hose clamps and will use them to get it running. So far only a small drip. Before it was really dripping a lot.
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
I think the issue is the neck of the outlet had corrosion on it and trying to seal the hose to it is difficult. I like the idea of using some RTV to fill in the holes and make the seal. For now the leak is very small. It could seal itself after the car get hot. Time will tell.
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
This is getting really exciting Rob being down to the details like water leaks! Hope they straighten out.
You remind me to check water leaks on an OT engine/rad.
I think they've stopped leaking with repeated starts and heat cycles!
Enough cinnamon and the borrowed from another OT old rad core isn't leaking anymore it seems.
I reused original 1929 or 50 year old hoses where I could.
Interesting! Rattles is close. VERY happy for you! The long projects feel even better when it's really time to go...
You remind me to check water leaks on an OT engine/rad.
I think they've stopped leaking with repeated starts and heat cycles!
Enough cinnamon and the borrowed from another OT old rad core isn't leaking anymore it seems.
I reused original 1929 or 50 year old hoses where I could.
Interesting! Rattles is close. VERY happy for you! The long projects feel even better when it's really time to go...
Since I lost my mind mind, I feel more liberated
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Now I have to put gas in it. I can only imagine how many more leaks I'm going to find. Ha!!!
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
I have been following this rebuild from the start and I hope you will take video of it running and post it here so we can all enjoy watching it run and listening to it run. I hope you post a video of your daughter "The Main Mechanic" driving it also.
1922 Coupe & 1927 Touring
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Well it was bound to happen. It was inevitable. I just didn't think it could happen so quick. We started the car!!
This is what we did.
I pushed the car out of the garage. I had Angie step on the break to see it it worked. It did. Then I had her put the parking break on it didn't work. Angie put a wheel chuck in the front and jacked up the back of the car to put it on jack stands. I placed a big drain pan under the car and placed a fire extinguisher next to the car (for luck). Then I put some gas in and checked for leaks. None. Then I opened up the sediment bowl and then the gas shutoff at the carb. still no leaks. Now I'm thinking this is too good to be true.
I had already loosened the third brush and moved it counter clockwise and had my wrench at the ready.
We connected the battery and looked at the Amperes meter it didn't move (good sign).
So first I primed the engine.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f-4Ugp7Mb_8
Then I started it. Got a bit excited and forgot to get the coils going.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iyd9xJdXLys
Then it was time to see if it would move. It did but I have a lot of band adjustment to make.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ejfklinNOCo
Of course Angie had to try it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LrZBCD3TUvE
I know it's running rich and my throttle and spark levers are not smooth yet but it ran!!!!!!!
I adjusted the third brush.
First time for me in 5 years. Now I just need to fiddle around with it.
Oh I checked it again tonight no leaks!!! battery disconnected. It was a great day!!
This is what we did.
I pushed the car out of the garage. I had Angie step on the break to see it it worked. It did. Then I had her put the parking break on it didn't work. Angie put a wheel chuck in the front and jacked up the back of the car to put it on jack stands. I placed a big drain pan under the car and placed a fire extinguisher next to the car (for luck). Then I put some gas in and checked for leaks. None. Then I opened up the sediment bowl and then the gas shutoff at the carb. still no leaks. Now I'm thinking this is too good to be true.
I had already loosened the third brush and moved it counter clockwise and had my wrench at the ready.
We connected the battery and looked at the Amperes meter it didn't move (good sign).
So first I primed the engine.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f-4Ugp7Mb_8
Then I started it. Got a bit excited and forgot to get the coils going.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iyd9xJdXLys
Then it was time to see if it would move. It did but I have a lot of band adjustment to make.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ejfklinNOCo
Of course Angie had to try it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LrZBCD3TUvE
I know it's running rich and my throttle and spark levers are not smooth yet but it ran!!!!!!!
I adjusted the third brush.
First time for me in 5 years. Now I just need to fiddle around with it.
Oh I checked it again tonight no leaks!!! battery disconnected. It was a great day!!
Last edited by Mopar_man on Thu Oct 28, 2021 7:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Congratulations! The smile on her face in the picture says it all! Like you said in the video a few adjustments and Rattles will be humming right along.
1922 Coupe & 1927 Touring
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Congratulations you two! For to feel very good!
Still crankin old iron
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Robert and Angie!…, JOB WELL DONE!!!!! Happy for Y’all!
Hank
Hank
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
- Joined: Sat Jan 12, 2019 9:24 pm
- First Name: Robert
- Last Name: Govoni
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Thanks everyone. Still have a lot to do but this was a big milestone.
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
It won't be long now, until you will be cruising around the neighborhood!
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
When you put the fire extinguisher away, then it'll leak a little bit.
Wonderful! And your mechanic learning from the get-go as it should be!
That handy "self commencer" (starter) is a treat.
Wonderful! And your mechanic learning from the get-go as it should be!
That handy "self commencer" (starter) is a treat.
Since I lost my mind mind, I feel more liberated
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
- Joined: Sat Jan 12, 2019 9:24 pm
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- Board Member Since: 2016
Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Ha so far no leaks. Tonight I managed to get my headlight trim ring off and the glass installed. I bought the tool from Lang's. I also installed the radiator support rod. Unfortunately the threads in the radiator where the rod mounts are messed up but I got it to fit. I also have a ground problem with my rear taillight. It works if I hook up a jumper wire. I've added lock washers that grip into the paint as well. I figure it out.
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
- Joined: Sat Jan 12, 2019 9:24 pm
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Like most model T mine came with a bunch of parts and stuff. In one of the boxes was a crank holder. When I went to use it the strap broke.
Well Walmart to the rescue. My wife went to the woman's section and found this three belt accessory for 3.00!
Guess what fit just fine. I have to cut it but that's ok.
Well Walmart to the rescue. My wife went to the woman's section and found this three belt accessory for 3.00!
Guess what fit just fine. I have to cut it but that's ok.
Last edited by Mopar_man on Tue Sep 21, 2021 4:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
"Well Walmart to the rescue" I am still LMAO!
Have notice since your project has progressed, you have developed a "Mark Twain" sense of humor! Don't get caught wiping up oil with pink panties or someone will sell you out!
LOL
Have notice since your project has progressed, you have developed a "Mark Twain" sense of humor! Don't get caught wiping up oil with pink panties or someone will sell you out!
LOL
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
It worked like a charm.
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
So tonight I had some more progress on Rattles. First I got the hood rod out and cut it to fit. I used the drill to get it out and back in the holes.
Then I fitted the hood. Sort of???? I was also able to get the back light grounded. It's still intermittent so I need to get some more of the washers that bite into the paint.
The the last big news....... We went for our first drive.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=icbmDBsMCKM
Then I fitted the hood. Sort of???? I was also able to get the back light grounded. It's still intermittent so I need to get some more of the washers that bite into the paint.
The the last big news....... We went for our first drive.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=icbmDBsMCKM
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Next thing to do is re torque the Head bolts.
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Well I re-torqued the head bolts. I know that's a small step but one that's needed. I also discovered a gas leak where the sediment bulb sheds into the gas tank. It's so small that I don'e smell any gas and it just made a small stain on the hood shelf. I used thread sealer ( I know it's a pipe thread). I'm going to try to take it on a run in the neighborhood tomorrow.
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
So tonight I drove the car again. Made a rookie mistake. I tried to start the car and got it to run for a bit then couldn't get it going. Discovered that I forgot to turn on the fuel. So then I hand cranked it for the first time. It started. Took it for a drive in the neighborhood and even got the nerve to shift into high gear. A new family that just moved in a few days ago was getting out of their car and the look on their faces as I drove by and waved was priceless. Everything was going alright until I stopped at a house to say hi and all of a sudden it was running rich and bad. I tried to adjust the carb and it ran real bad and had no power to get up the road. I leaned out the carb and it died. I got it going and tried to climb the hill and it just barley moved. Then about midway on the hill the car started running better and I got it home. I'll take it out tomorrow and try again.
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Re: "... it was running rich and bad..." It could be that the choke is not staying open when it should due to a weak choke shaft spring, or it may have just got something stuck under the float needle, or the float may be dragging. It's not much, or it would not have started running better.
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Thanks Pat I'm going to check a bunch of things.
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Got it running good. Then it dies and would not start. checked everything except the gas tank.
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
That happened to me many years ago. Had done a ton of work on the 1919 so decided to take a drive around the neighborhood. Was about 2 miles from home and the engine quit. I had the hood open and was thinking what to check first when a 12 year old neighbor’s kid mowing grass walked up to see what I was doing.
He then announced,”Dad always says to check for gas first if the engine quits.” Was I ever embarrassed. I was out of gasoline!
He then announced,”Dad always says to check for gas first if the engine quits.” Was I ever embarrassed. I was out of gasoline!
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
OK so today I got some of the bugs out. My throttle rod was short (because I bent it) and was also in backwards. So I started out with a new one and was able to hook it up without bending it at all.
The first thing I did was checked how the throttle lever moved without the rod hooked up. It was nice and smooth. I hooked up the rod and saw that it was rubbing the block a bit from where someone made the hole for it to pass through. It's not that bad but I wish i would have filed it down a bit when I had the motor apart. Not sure if you can see it here.
Next I'm going to do the same with the timing rod. The timer seems to rub on something when it's fully retarded.
The first thing I did was checked how the throttle lever moved without the rod hooked up. It was nice and smooth. I hooked up the rod and saw that it was rubbing the block a bit from where someone made the hole for it to pass through. It's not that bad but I wish i would have filed it down a bit when I had the motor apart. Not sure if you can see it here.
Next I'm going to do the same with the timing rod. The timer seems to rub on something when it's fully retarded.
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Next up my carpentry skills or lack there of. I know it's a 26/7 so it only has a few pieces of wood but I'm sure I'll mess something up. There are only a few wood parts that are labeled so I may have some questions in the future. This is the first part I'm going to tackle.
Step one was to get this off Then I sand blasted and painted these.
Now I have to fit this in. So I got a sanding machine and I think I've got a lot to sand to get it to fit.
Step one was to get this off Then I sand blasted and painted these.
Now I have to fit this in. So I got a sanding machine and I think I've got a lot to sand to get it to fit.
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
I also got my 5 tires in. These will replace the ones on the car that were put on in 1974.
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Got the sanding machine set up. I know it's a HF special that may fall apart. I just need it to hold together for a little bit.
Now I'm trying to get all the bolts that hold the wood in unscrewed. This is my second night with hitting them with PB Blaster. I got one out. Not only are they rusted they were painted when the guy before me sent the car out. I'll get them eventually.
You can see the wood is a bit thick. I'm not sure who made the body kit (It's older maybe 1980's).
Now I'm trying to get all the bolts that hold the wood in unscrewed. This is my second night with hitting them with PB Blaster. I got one out. Not only are they rusted they were painted when the guy before me sent the car out. I'll get them eventually.
You can see the wood is a bit thick. I'm not sure who made the body kit (It's older maybe 1980's).
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Sorry I know it's been a while. I'm still working on Rattles. Family comes first so I had to slow down a bit. I started to take the blots out of the holes where the wood is going to go. Unfortunately, most are so rusty they are falling apart. I'm trying to save as much as I can. I've been soaking them in PB Blaster for days.
This part was in a box that came with the car and I didn't know where it went. I figured it out and started to make it fit.
This part was in a box that came with the car and I didn't know where it went. I figured it out and started to make it fit.
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
So today we decided to adjust the parking break. We first jacked up the rear and put it on jack stands.
Unfortunately that didn't seem to make a difference. We adjusted them as far as they would go and the wheels still turned. I found a set of break shoes that came with the car. I'm guessing that they are the ones that supposed to be in there. When I take the tires off to change them I pull the wheel as well and see for sure. We started out thinking we were going to get something done. Ha!! If everything worked well it wouldn't be as fun.
When we go under this car, this is what we found. You can see that the nut was not tightened.
Once we took the pin out we made an adjustment.Unfortunately that didn't seem to make a difference. We adjusted them as far as they would go and the wheels still turned. I found a set of break shoes that came with the car. I'm guessing that they are the ones that supposed to be in there. When I take the tires off to change them I pull the wheel as well and see for sure. We started out thinking we were going to get something done. Ha!! If everything worked well it wouldn't be as fun.
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Therapy Robert, Therapy! Oh and Father and Child bonding time too!!!!!
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
So true. She's off from school and we both needed some garage time.
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
See she got paid with a cool hoodie for helping you! Payments for helping Dad...., PRICELESS!
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
So true. She's off from school so it's time for some garage time.
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
So sorry I haven't posted in a while. I got Covid. Not that bad just a bit of a cough and a runny nose. So I had to put the T on the back burner for a bit. I did start to work on the wood. Big thanks to Tom Miller for answering my questions. The diagram for a 26/7 touring is not that clear and my wood kit that came with the car doesn't have matching numbers. Tom has been very helpful.
I was able to shave down a machine screw and tap the hole to attach a door latch. Tom asked me to seal the wood so I make it easier for the next guy. Ha!! I'm drilling some holes in the wood to put them on. Test fitting
I was able to shave down a machine screw and tap the hole to attach a door latch. Tom asked me to seal the wood so I make it easier for the next guy. Ha!! I'm drilling some holes in the wood to put them on. Test fitting
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Robert,
Can you tell us what type of sealer you used on the woodwork ? Varnish, clear lacquer, shellac, linseed oil, etc ?
Dick
Can you tell us what type of sealer you used on the woodwork ? Varnish, clear lacquer, shellac, linseed oil, etc ?
Dick
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
I used the stuff you seal a deck with. I figure that is good to leave in the weather it should be good if the wood gets wet from the rain.
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Glad you are back on the mends Robert! Your young apprentice still needs therapy!
Hank
Hank
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Got some more done tonight. These went in a little more easily.
Had to file this one down a bit to fit it.
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Tonight I took a look at a very small gas leak that I had. I had asked about tapping the threads on the tank but decided to take a look first. After taking off the sediment bowl I found what I suspected. some of the tank sealer had got into the threads and could have contributed to the leak.
After cleaning out the threads with a pick and vacuuming out the junk, I then took the bowl apart. This is all the stuff that was in the threads and bowl.
I then used some of this to seal the threads.
And put the bowl back on. I also ordered a few of the seals for the fuel line and an overflow pipe for the tank from Lang's
After cleaning out the threads with a pick and vacuuming out the junk, I then took the bowl apart. This is all the stuff that was in the threads and bowl.
I then used some of this to seal the threads.
And put the bowl back on. I also ordered a few of the seals for the fuel line and an overflow pipe for the tank from Lang's
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Robert,
I'm sorry to say but that still is going to leak! The fuel line needs to be connected to the sediment bowl not next to it! The fuel will not jump across the gap and to the carburetor!
I'm sorry to say but that still is going to leak! The fuel line needs to be connected to the sediment bowl not next to it! The fuel will not jump across the gap and to the carburetor!
1922 Coupe & 1927 Touring
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Perry,
Ha! I'll get it connected once I get some of the neoprene seals. Soon.........
Ha! I'll get it connected once I get some of the neoprene seals. Soon.........
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Got some work done yesterday. The first thing I did is fit the floor. I found two issues. First there was a piece of wood under the battery that was too thick and made the battery too high so the floor wouldn't fit. Solved that issue with a thinner piece of wood.
Then I painted the front and rear floors.
I also picked up some top bows at Luray. Came with the rivets.
They came from JP Auto Wood I got my floors from him as well a few years ago. He makes great stuff and is very helpful.
Then I painted the front and rear floors.
I also picked up some top bows at Luray. Came with the rivets.
They came from JP Auto Wood I got my floors from him as well a few years ago. He makes great stuff and is very helpful.
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- First Name: Mark
- Last Name: Bailey
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- MTFCA Number: 50335
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Got all of my top bow wood and some trim wood from them also, great stuff.
Still crankin old iron
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Well Robert, I guess if you want the fuel line hooked up correctly, you'll just have to get your daughter to do it!
1922 Coupe & 1927 Touring
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
She get's lots of requests for work. Ha!! She's even going to be a part of the take apart T at our AACA show in June.
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Well, school's out so I got my mechanic back to work.
We worked on getting the seat springs painted.
Then we decided to work on getting the gas overflow tube inserted in the tank. Learned something doing this. The early gas tanks had the set screw on the passenger side of the tube and the later ones had it on the engine side. Looking at ours it became obvious that the tank was sitting too far to the drivers side and the tube would not fit. You can see that the tank is not centered.
After some moving and adjusting the tube is back in place. We also started to fit the floor. I'll save my questions for a new post.
We worked on getting the seat springs painted.
Then we decided to work on getting the gas overflow tube inserted in the tank. Learned something doing this. The early gas tanks had the set screw on the passenger side of the tube and the later ones had it on the engine side. Looking at ours it became obvious that the tank was sitting too far to the drivers side and the tube would not fit. You can see that the tank is not centered.
After some moving and adjusting the tube is back in place. We also started to fit the floor. I'll save my questions for a new post.
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
"Dad...., My finger is sore as all get out! Can we take an ice cream break!"
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Ha!! I asked her that question. How's that finger doing after the 4th can of paint?
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Robert, Get her one of those little plastic trigger/handles for spray cans. She'll think you are the smartest dad ever (she probably already does).
Best two bucks I ever spent.
Dick
https://www.bing.com/aclick?ld=e8hGfkeW ... 741307b50a
Best two bucks I ever spent.
Dick
https://www.bing.com/aclick?ld=e8hGfkeW ... 741307b50a
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
We were looking at those triggers at the store. I got the "You mean you knew about this and didn't say anything?" Ha!!!
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Well we're back at it again. Sorry for the delay My daughter is trying to master the stick shift in the soon to be her Jeep as well as other things. Today we trimmed the floorboards to fit. We had to adjust the hight of the small board in the middle of the rear footwell.
Then we had to cut some rusty bolts off to allow the center wood under the front seat to fit.-
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
OH to be young enough (and thin enough) to squeeze into the back seat area to cut bolts like that! I wish I could say I remember when I could do that but I also lost my ...what were we talking about...
Thanks for the up dates
Thanks for the up dates
1922 Coupe & 1927 Touring
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
AWESOME Robert and Young Lady!!!!!!!
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Her small hands come in handy! Her quote for today was " Most things can be solved with a can of brake cleaner."
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- First Name: Rod
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Robert, you are leaving a great legacy by posting all of this here. As I scroll through I'm reminded of things to check that I may have overlooked later. I've also subscribed to your YouTube channel Thank you!
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
I hope to have more videos up soon. My to do list was keeps evolving every time I read this forum. What a great pile of information.
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Well we were able to get out and repack the front wheel bearings today.
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/NR1JrIPZaX4
I know they make bearing packers but this is the old way. Ha!!!
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/C75zowRCykg
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/NR1JrIPZaX4
I know they make bearing packers but this is the old way. Ha!!!
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/C75zowRCykg
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
By "old way" you mean child labor?
Scott Conger
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Hey It's not Child Labor if they are having fun.
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
So tonight I decided to take the rear wheel off and see why the parking brake didn't work.
I'm thinking that after finding these in my pile of pars I kind of know why. After taking off the hubcap I discovered something dangerous!!!! No cotter pin and the nut was on finger tight!! Then the wheel just came off!! That's not how that is supposed to happen. Look what I found. No brakes!!
Now for another problem. I got the brakes on and the drum won't fit over them.
I'm thinking that after finding these in my pile of pars I kind of know why. After taking off the hubcap I discovered something dangerous!!!! No cotter pin and the nut was on finger tight!! Then the wheel just came off!! That's not how that is supposed to happen. Look what I found. No brakes!!
Now for another problem. I got the brakes on and the drum won't fit over them.
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Make sure they are round. fit into the drums.
Note the brake cam width compared to the gap when the shoes are in the drum.
Note the brake cam width compared to the gap when the shoes are in the drum.
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Good idea! I'll check.
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Well I checked by placing the shoe in the drum and measuring the gap. Then measuring the gap when it's installed. sure enough I think I have the issue of the lining being too thick. It looks like the pad was in the car before because you can see that it's used a bit. I've seen people have said to sand the pad down. You would think that they would make one that fits.
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Your one band is sprung open and may have to replace it
as for friction material, folks are simply selling what is commercially available and as you've found, it is too thick; it is one of the hobby's best known secrets
your rear wheel is going too far onto the axle and mashing into the dust cover which is a common problem. Vendors sell shims to move the hub out a bit and if the wheel is installed tightly, are perfectly serviceable.
Finally, there is a seal installed on the inside face of the drum which is ALWAYS missing...it is the same felt seal as is used for the front inner bearing...see this: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/82 ... 1541507398
glad your test drive was limited and your clutch was not prone to dragging!
as for friction material, folks are simply selling what is commercially available and as you've found, it is too thick; it is one of the hobby's best known secrets
your rear wheel is going too far onto the axle and mashing into the dust cover which is a common problem. Vendors sell shims to move the hub out a bit and if the wheel is installed tightly, are perfectly serviceable.
Finally, there is a seal installed on the inside face of the drum which is ALWAYS missing...it is the same felt seal as is used for the front inner bearing...see this: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/82 ... 1541507398
glad your test drive was limited and your clutch was not prone to dragging!
Scott Conger
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
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- First Name: Mark
- Last Name: Nunn
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Runabout
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- Board Member Since: 2017
Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
My '26 Runabout had shoes with pieces of rivets but no lining. I relined them with material from one of our vendors. I used a coarse 2"-wide wood rasp to take down the lining to where I was satisfied with fit. I also had to round over the lining edge on the outboard side to match the rounded corner of the wire wheel drum.
Scott mentioned the shoe that has a wide opening. The cams spread shoes at the openings. The highest stress on shoes with worn out linings is at a point opposite the open ends. Both of mine were bent out at that point, showing a gap there between linings and the drum. (I placed my shoes in a drum on the workbench as a guide to reshape my shoes.) Check, bend a little, repeat. I placed my shoes over the open jaws of a vise and gently tapped between the jaws until shoes fit well. Then I went after the linings with a rasp.
Scott mentioned the shoe that has a wide opening. The cams spread shoes at the openings. The highest stress on shoes with worn out linings is at a point opposite the open ends. Both of mine were bent out at that point, showing a gap there between linings and the drum. (I placed my shoes in a drum on the workbench as a guide to reshape my shoes.) Check, bend a little, repeat. I placed my shoes over the open jaws of a vise and gently tapped between the jaws until shoes fit well. Then I went after the linings with a rasp.
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Scott Thanks for all you help! I now see that one band is open more than the other. Does the shim look like a big washer? I'm going to look for it as well as the felt washer.
Mark Thanks for your help as well. I have set the shoe in the drum and it looks like it's ok. I will have to get after the thickness of the band like everyone else.
This gives new meaning to the phrase "Thant's when the wheels came off."
Mark Thanks for your help as well. I have set the shoe in the drum and it looks like it's ok. I will have to get after the thickness of the band like everyone else.
This gives new meaning to the phrase "Thant's when the wheels came off."
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Today I got some more wood in the car and painted my windshield stanchions.
Not sure what all these little holes are for yet. One seems to be filled in.
Not sure what all these little holes are for yet. One seems to be filled in.
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Fess up and tell us the truth...Today YOUR DAUGHTER got some more wood in the car and painted the windshield stanchions!Today I got some more wood in the car and painted my windshield stanchions
1922 Coupe & 1927 Touring
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Ha! Don't worry she'll check my work. LOL
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
The little holes are for side curtain fasteners.
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Thanks Mark!!
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
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Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Today's work was first putting on the windshield stanchions. Is this grove for a rubber gasket?
Also what's the best way to get the nut on. My gosh I thought the nut that holds the power brake booster on a MOPAR under the dash was bad. I may have to take apart the dash again.
Today I also got the wheel on. I wanted to see if it was hitting the dust cover so I put some tape on it and tightened the wheel down. Then I spun the wheel and took it off and looked for a mark.
My shims should be coming soon.
Also what's the best way to get the nut on. My gosh I thought the nut that holds the power brake booster on a MOPAR under the dash was bad. I may have to take apart the dash again.
Today I also got the wheel on. I wanted to see if it was hitting the dust cover so I put some tape on it and tightened the wheel down. Then I spun the wheel and took it off and looked for a mark.
My shims should be coming soon.
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- First Name: Richard
- Last Name: C
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1923 Touring
- Location: Clarksville, Virginia
- MTFCA Number: 52098
Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Yep this is what the rubber looks like for that. Readily available from vendors.
I just learned about its availability and also just found my stanchions only have the uppers retainers and not the 2 lower ones on each side of Scarlotte O'Hara. Guess I will be in the market for some new or nice used ' 23 stanchions.
As far as the bolt...I would think small hands would be able to get them on. Must be another great feature of the "improved" car.
I just learned about its availability and also just found my stanchions only have the uppers retainers and not the 2 lower ones on each side of Scarlotte O'Hara. Guess I will be in the market for some new or nice used ' 23 stanchions.
As far as the bolt...I would think small hands would be able to get them on. Must be another great feature of the "improved" car.
Socialism is resentment disguised as compassion enforced by tyranny disguised as tolerance.
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
- Joined: Sat Jan 12, 2019 9:24 pm
- First Name: Robert
- Last Name: Govoni
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Touring
- Location: Fredericksburg, VA
- MTFCA Number: 32331
- Board Member Since: 2016
Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Thanks Richard. I'm going to look. I bought a rubber kit for the windshield I bet it's in there. As for the nut. I'll let my daughter give it a try.
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
- Joined: Sat Jan 12, 2019 9:24 pm
- First Name: Robert
- Last Name: Govoni
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Touring
- Location: Fredericksburg, VA
- MTFCA Number: 32331
- Board Member Since: 2016
Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
More progress tonight! I was able to put the wood in for the front. I hope that it gives me enough wood for the interior. I can't imagine nailing to the wood. I'll have to use a staple gun. Seems like the wood would flex as you were hitting it.
I'm thinking this piece of wood goes at the bottom of the front seat.
I'm thinking this piece of wood goes at the bottom of the front seat.
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
- Joined: Sat Jan 12, 2019 9:24 pm
- First Name: Robert
- Last Name: Govoni
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Touring
- Location: Fredericksburg, VA
- MTFCA Number: 32331
- Board Member Since: 2016
Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
The other thing I did tonight was looked at the rear axel. Here is what the shim loos like.
I also got the felt for the hub.
Here is a video of what the issue is with the axel.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4AqqNuvGjnU&t=37s
Then on the car. I also got the felt for the hub.
Here is a video of what the issue is with the axel.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4AqqNuvGjnU&t=37s
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
- Joined: Sat Jan 12, 2019 9:24 pm
- First Name: Robert
- Last Name: Govoni
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Touring
- Location: Fredericksburg, VA
- MTFCA Number: 32331
- Board Member Since: 2016
Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Today's adventure Getting the Touring car's windshield weather tight.
Then it was time to put the one bolt in that it almost impossible to get a nut on the other side.
Even my wife gave it a shot!
Then it was time to put the one bolt in that it almost impossible to get a nut on the other side.
Even my wife gave it a shot!
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- Posts: 3870
- Joined: Fri Feb 12, 2021 12:24 pm
- First Name: john
- Last Name: karvaly
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 14/15 wide track roadster. 23 touring, 27 roadster pickup, 20ish rajo touring
- Location: orange, ca
- MTFCA Number: 14383
- Board Member Since: 2020
Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
I believe your outer seal cup is not on all the way. It takes brutal force to get them seated all the way down.
There is a low area where the hub rubbed & there is a high area @ the outer edge & I see a lot of tubing behind the cup..
There is a low area where the hub rubbed & there is a high area @ the outer edge & I see a lot of tubing behind the cup..
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
- Joined: Sat Jan 12, 2019 9:24 pm
- First Name: Robert
- Last Name: Govoni
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Touring
- Location: Fredericksburg, VA
- MTFCA Number: 32331
- Board Member Since: 2016
Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
John I'll try it again. I did tap it with a piece of wood and a small hammer. Maybe I should give it a better hit.
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- Posts: 3870
- Joined: Fri Feb 12, 2021 12:24 pm
- First Name: john
- Last Name: karvaly
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 14/15 wide track roadster. 23 touring, 27 roadster pickup, 20ish rajo touring
- Location: orange, ca
- MTFCA Number: 14383
- Board Member Since: 2020
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- Posts: 6435
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:18 am
- First Name: Scott
- Last Name: Conger
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: '13, '15, '19, '23
- Location: Clark, WY
- Board Member Since: 2005
Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Robert
looking at the last picture, I see that your daughter has matured a bit during the build!
looking at the last picture, I see that your daughter has matured a bit during the build!
Scott Conger
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
- Joined: Sat Jan 12, 2019 9:24 pm
- First Name: Robert
- Last Name: Govoni
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Touring
- Location: Fredericksburg, VA
- MTFCA Number: 32331
- Board Member Since: 2016
Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
John, It worked!! I put a piece of wood on it and hit it a bit harder with a hammer and it moved quite a bit. I don't think it will hit anymore. I also sanded the shoes down. There is still a bit of a drag on them but I don't want to sand off the rivets.
Scott, Ha that's my better half.
Scott, Ha that's my better half.
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
- Joined: Sat Jan 12, 2019 9:24 pm
- First Name: Robert
- Last Name: Govoni
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Touring
- Location: Fredericksburg, VA
- MTFCA Number: 32331
- Board Member Since: 2016
Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Well Tonight I made some adjustments to the Emergency brakes. Here is what I did.
First I made sure that this cam and lever was to the rear.
Made sure the cam was level.
Made sure I torqued it to 120 foot pounds and look cotter pins now!!!
Here is a look at what I did.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3EvEwXlQPRQ
First I made sure that this cam and lever was to the rear.
Made sure the cam was level.
Made sure I torqued it to 120 foot pounds and look cotter pins now!!!
Here is a look at what I did.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3EvEwXlQPRQ
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
- Joined: Sat Jan 12, 2019 9:24 pm
- First Name: Robert
- Last Name: Govoni
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Touring
- Location: Fredericksburg, VA
- MTFCA Number: 32331
- Board Member Since: 2016
Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Almost forgot. I was able to scope the rear and I think i got a look at the thrust washers. Are these them? The camera was pointing to the right. I could see the gears when I looked left and I think I'm looking at them. See any Babbitt in there?
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
- Joined: Sat Jan 12, 2019 9:24 pm
- First Name: Robert
- Last Name: Govoni
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Touring
- Location: Fredericksburg, VA
- MTFCA Number: 32331
- Board Member Since: 2016
Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
I was able to paint the parts in the interior that will show after I put the interior in.
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
- Joined: Sat Jan 12, 2019 9:24 pm
- First Name: Robert
- Last Name: Govoni
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Touring
- Location: Fredericksburg, VA
- MTFCA Number: 32331
- Board Member Since: 2016
Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
I also printed off the directions on how to use a rim split tool and think I did it correctly and didn't destroy the rim.
How hard can this be? The receipt I have for the tires says that they were put on the car in 1974.
Now all I have to do is put on 5 tires!!!
I also got these from Lang's. They allow me to use a modern valve stem and still have the old look.
How hard can this be? The receipt I have for the tires says that they were put on the car in 1974.
Now all I have to do is put on 5 tires!!!
I also got these from Lang's. They allow me to use a modern valve stem and still have the old look.
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
- Joined: Sat Jan 12, 2019 9:24 pm
- First Name: Robert
- Last Name: Govoni
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Touring
- Location: Fredericksburg, VA
- MTFCA Number: 32331
- Board Member Since: 2016
Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Got some time tonight to powder up the tires and get the tubes in them. I filled the tubes with a bit of air, then I put the tire talc in the tire.
Next When I have some light. I'll start to take the rest of the rims off and let some air out of the tubes to put the flaps in.
Then I got the tube in.
The next thing I did was filled the tube up with air. this made sure that I didn't have any kinks or twists in the tube. Next When I have some light. I'll start to take the rest of the rims off and let some air out of the tubes to put the flaps in.
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
- Joined: Sat Jan 12, 2019 9:24 pm
- First Name: Robert
- Last Name: Govoni
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Touring
- Location: Fredericksburg, VA
- MTFCA Number: 32331
- Board Member Since: 2016
Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
We now have flaps! I decided to buy them new as the ones that were in the tires are hard.
I also picked up some wood from Ford Wood. Great people to deal with.-
Topic author - Posts: 1101
- Joined: Sat Jan 12, 2019 9:24 pm
- First Name: Robert
- Last Name: Govoni
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Touring
- Location: Fredericksburg, VA
- MTFCA Number: 32331
- Board Member Since: 2016
Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Today the flaps went in. We got several done until Angie noticed that the flap had "This side Toward Tube" printed on it. Not sure why they had a side? The looked the same to me. So we had to take some apart and fix them.
We powdered them up first and let some of the air out of the tubes. Once they were in I ran my hand on each side to make sure the flap was not pinched or twisted
We now have all five tires with the tubes and flaps in. Next up will be to take the old tires off and instal the split rim.
Angie painted some deck stain on the new wood so (I was told this a while back) the next guy won't have rotten wood.
Next up she worked on the spare tire holder. The threads were terrible so she hit them with the blaster first.
Then she cleaned up the threads.
We powdered them up first and let some of the air out of the tubes. Once they were in I ran my hand on each side to make sure the flap was not pinched or twisted
We now have all five tires with the tubes and flaps in. Next up will be to take the old tires off and instal the split rim.
Angie painted some deck stain on the new wood so (I was told this a while back) the next guy won't have rotten wood.
Next up she worked on the spare tire holder. The threads were terrible so she hit them with the blaster first.
Then she cleaned up the threads.
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
- Joined: Sat Jan 12, 2019 9:24 pm
- First Name: Robert
- Last Name: Govoni
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Touring
- Location: Fredericksburg, VA
- MTFCA Number: 32331
- Board Member Since: 2016
Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
I you recall a few post ago I had an issue where a slight gas leak. That turned into me finding that some of the sealant from when the gas tank was repaired had gotten into the sediment bulb. Well before I fill it with gas I checked the float bowl. I was nice and clean.
Then as I was looking at the rear axel I noticed that these were missing. I know they are not screwed in all the way but they are tight and I was able to get grease in.
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
- Joined: Sat Jan 12, 2019 9:24 pm
- First Name: Robert
- Last Name: Govoni
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Touring
- Location: Fredericksburg, VA
- MTFCA Number: 32331
- Board Member Since: 2016
Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
Next up was my first time putting a split rim on. The tool worked as advertised!!! I have to admit I was a bit scared that I would damage things. But it went great!!!
I put a little bend in the stem and I think getting it to come out straight was the hard part.
Hey! Only four more to go!!!!!!
This is what it looked like after I was done. I put a little bend in the stem and I think getting it to come out straight was the hard part.
Hey! Only four more to go!!!!!!
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- Posts: 207
- Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2022 8:42 pm
- First Name: Dan
- Last Name: A
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1923 Touring
- Location: Pennsylvania
- MTFCA Number: 52389
- Board Member Since: 2022
Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
I'm glad you are ahead of me in this journey. Just about every post leaves me thinking, "yep, I gotta do that too..."
Great progress, congrats!
Great progress, congrats!
Where is the OBD2 port on this thing?
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Topic author - Posts: 1101
- Joined: Sat Jan 12, 2019 9:24 pm
- First Name: Robert
- Last Name: Govoni
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Touring
- Location: Fredericksburg, VA
- MTFCA Number: 32331
- Board Member Since: 2016
Re: Getting Rattles Back On The Road
A Model T is never done. I'm always reading something here that makes me go back and look.