MTFCA Forum

Not much but I built a Man Cave so I can visit the Ts in a comfortable setting...

Ayyyye...

Gas price dropped to $1.91 per so we went to the beach. (they opened up WAWA, Circle K,and a RaceTrack gas stations within 1 mile of each other and all in the same month, so they started a mini gas war) Diesel for my big truck fell all the way to $2.32....Hope this keeps up

This topic might need to be changed to "What Have You Done to Your T this Month" and get a sticky. Otherwise it will be deeply buried by the end of January.

I put the driver's seat in my TT. This is the only planned seating so far. It is on buggy seat springs for comfort, and is a boat seat so I don't have to park the TT inside.

TT driver seats tend to aggravate me, they are too close to the wheel and cramped. I can not even get in the driver's side on a lot of TT's, and I am not a big guy. I adjusted this just for me, the right distance back for the pedals and the right height. I have only done a couple of hours of test driving, but it is very comfortable.

I like the ease of posting pictures on this new forum. I suspect they come up in opposite of the order one inserts them, so if you want to post a lot of pictures in a certain order in one post you have to put them in in reverse of how you want them to show up?

BTTT

Welding up some holes in the cowl and above the windshield.

I replaced a broken Bendix. Don't you hate it when that happens?

So many things... in fairness, I started all this the last weekend in Dec.

Finished the December Ruckstell rear end total rebuild incl straightening axle tubes and got it all back in the car
New fun projects adjustable pinion bearing. Nice design, great upgrade.
Got rid of most of the new pinion noise. Grrrrr....
Installed New safety hubs - what a pain, but worth it
Rebuilt steering shaft bushings & installed “new” wood steering wheel
Quick Front end alignment - it was actually toed out 1/4” vs in. No wonder it wandered.
Put all new workbenches and LED lighting in my shop - Sears went out of biz and sold everything
Rebuilt the starter w new bushings, bearing, and brushes, rebuilt Bendix & New starter switch
Ordered a New radiator from Brassworks to replace the previous multi-leak version
New pulley, fan and fan hub
Installed new wiring looms throughout
New rear shackles
Adjusted the generator 3rd brush and now the battery actually keeps a charge.
Finished programming and installing a cool blinker system that runs on 6 volts and turns off automatically after making a turn. More on this in a different post.

I’ve only been able to drive it 3 days this month so far. It been raining non-stop.
Ok, back to sleep now...

Tom Hicks,
Where's you gas tank?

hpetrino wrote: ↑

Wed Jan 09, 2019 7:26 am

Tom Hicks,
Where's you gas tank?

In the second picture, on the far side, below the steering wheel, you will see a 2 1/2 gallon plastic tank from a riding mower. It is my test tank, it has a line with a shut off valve and filter. I'll remove it after I install the permanent tank and use it on my engine test stand.

This TT has a long way to go. Right now I am just test driving to make sure the drivetrain works properly.

I don't know where the final tank will go, but it will be high enough that I don't need a fuel pump!

Tom Hicks wrote: ↑

Wed Jan 09, 2019 1:13 pm

[quote=hpetrino post_id=1124 time=<a href="tel:1547036798">1547036798</a> user_id=98]
Tom Hicks,
Where's you gas tank?

I don't know where the final tank will go, but it will be high enough that I don't need a fuel pump!
[/quote]

So your putting the gas tank on the roof, yes ?

Checked oil and coolant and battery today. Plan to visit a school tomorrow. Will check the air pressure tomorrow before I go to the school. In January here we do tours and other events. It's about 60 degrees today.
Norm

Norm, it was 58 here yesterday...now a little snow and a 14 degree wind chill !!

Tom Hicks wrote: ↑

Tue Jan 08, 2019 9:39 am

I replaced a broken Bendix. Don't you hate it when that happens?

Replaced? I welded mine together. It's not a bad solution

Steve Jelf wrote: ↑

Wed Jan 09, 2019 11:39 am

Jeff, if you do a lot of driving, especially on less-than-perfect roads, let us know how the new radiator holds up.

Is there a concern about these new radiators from Brassworks? I just got a confirmation email and they’re 6 weeks out for delivery. Almost makes me want to tackle fixing mine again. Seems like every hole I get plugged and then another leak erupts. 5 and counting. it only leaks when it’s cold and sitting in the garage, not when I’m driving. Very strange.

[/quote]

So your putting the gas tank on the roof, yes ?
[/quote]

I don't think it will have a roof, but it is design/build as I go along. Next is the driver's side front fender and running board. The running board will go back almost to the rear tire, and the running board's rear support will probably include a brace which will support the tank close behind the seat. I have to do a mock up and play with it some.

[/quote]

Replaced? I welded mine together. It's not a bad solution
[/quote]

Yes, an excellent solution for someone with welding ability and probably srtonger than the press fit which separated on mine. I do have a small buzz box and som 1/8 rod, and I could probably make it stick together, but I am not a welder and don't trust my work. I have too much to do to spend time monkeying around with a broken bendix and then possibly having it fail again. So I replace and put the broken one on the shelf, maybe one day when I have more time...

Tom, when you get to fix it, you will find iy's not a press fit. Rather, there are lugs to locate the counterweight, and these are upset to essentially rivet the two pieces together. These tend to let go to give the problem you experienced. Those same lugs are a big help locating the two pieces prior to welding. I have found many such repairs made by bronze welding the two together. Today a mig weld might be quicker and easier.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.

Watched and waited for varnish to dry, don't like getting the surface to messed up. Next step, come spring is laying wet canvas over this, then varnish and sanding before painting and finishing the cockpit.

hi I picked up the t from the guy that put in the upholstery pictures are at his place bernie

Well, I promised to get my block married to the pan last month, but it didn't happen. Three days ago it did........and everything fit like it was supposed to! Well, except for that modern oil seal....it needed a little "modification" but it looks like an engine now instead of separate parts. Next up, 4th bearing re-babbitt and new wood bands.

Haha! Hi Bernie! Glad to see you here and posting pics! You have it sorted I see!
Pssst. My 18 doesn't have any upholstery in it yet. Don't tell anyone.

George, It is good practice to align the pan when fitting it to the block by having the fourth main in position over the output shaft. I put the two bolts either side of the crankshaft in first, slip the fourth main in place to keep it in line, and then put in the remainder of the bolts. Without the fourth main, things can be well out of line. If your remetalled main does not line up when you come to fit it, you might try following the above steps.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.

Pulled the magnet eating monster out. Now cleaning, setting everything for the new engine and transmission. Therapy! She will up and going again in no time.

All the Best,

Hank in TN

That's all you can do Hank, just get er done !!
Onward and upward !

Got mine situated and will get some more propane tomorrow and start swapping radiators.

Working on building my speedster body skeleton. It's slow going but it's getting there.

Here's how she sits with a couple templates in the making

Finally had some weather nice enough to get out and spray some paint on my new Ruckstell for my 15'.

I’ve been very sick for a while now, in and out of hospital, and haven’t been able to drive my T for about 6 months. Today I got out in the frigid 50 degree weather to go for a ride and MAN. Hit the starter and in two turns it lit right off and was ready to go. I am always amazed at how easy to start and ready to go it is no matter long it’s been asleep. I wish I could get started that easy. Took a run after a warm up and She ran just fine. Just loves to run. Yeah I may be bragging just a little but honestly I have always been happy with the way it’s always ready to run without any complaints. So what did I do with my T today? I took it out for a spin. Didn’t really want to stop.

Not much, although I am in the middle of a road trip from Key Largo, FL to Gilroy, CA. I am currently in Gilroy and have torn into my Mom;s speedster to find a broken bendix. Hopefully I can get another before I need to head back to FL. On this trip relating to T's I am bringing back a frame, 18 engine with crank pistons etc, 1 1915 blocks (one for a friend), triple gear side drive mag, a couple of early pans, box of broken winfields, and a number of other bits and pieces. Also on the trailer is my Grandfather's '38 sedan that I will be going thru and keeping in the family.

Not much to report here but I took the coupelet out for a little spin this afternoon and she ran well, shifting is getting better the more I drive. Plan to attend Cars & Coffee next Saturday.

*Newbie here*
I have had my 1916 Touring for almost 6 weeks. I have rebuilt the carb, flushed the radiator, greased and oiled it, and changed the oil.

Good start Jeff, now go here http://www.mtfca.com/ bottom right corner in RED lettering download the safety inspection and a user manual and remember the "oily side" stays closest to the dirt! Welcome to the affliction.

Had my garage warmed up yesterday, playing cards with my buddies. Between a few deals, I got the radiator swapped in the T...Just needs a few cotter pins put in and fill it with coolant.
And transfer the Ford emblem
Don't look like a test drive is gonna be any time soon...14 degrees last night

Not much this time.

Leaving this night for a week trip to Safaga on the Red sea in Egypte for scuba diving .

Andre
Belgium

I’m getting my new steering gearbox ready to be installed. I milled the slot for the stop pin to match the later version. I filled and polished some dents with silicon-bronze weld wire. The gearbox cover is too pitted to replate so I filled pits and painted it for now.

Earlier this month I cleaned a sad-looking NH carburetor and plugged the passage holes with brass. Yesterday I removed the brass and installed set screws for the next guy to own it.

I did some hammer-and-dolly work on a crusty old carb stove. It’s currently soaking in Evap-o-Rust.

I got Elie Mae's fenders on. I have two sets of fenders for her, one is near perfect with a professional paint job in black. Beautiful! The ones I put on are the ones I prefer. They are beaten and rusty, someone did a job of welding up some splits and holes, and I can't say they were easy to fit. But they look good so I put some clear coat on them.

And I built some running boards from treated 2X12's.


Lighting is next, I have some LED lights left over from my other two T's, and some interesting headlights. Plus a support bar that goes across the front fenders which might hold a couple of lights. This is the really fun part! Might be awhile though, too much else going on this week.

More rear center bracket below deck lid this evening.

Started making a right hand drive friendly timer because the left hand drive one is getting to a point where it can't be skimmed true anymore.

See that stump of welding rod? That is the rivets,and the arm is also soldered for good measure.

I didn't do this to my T, but for all my T's (and other vehicles too). I finished my 1932 Champion plug tester. The best part is that it actually works. Yesterday I thought I might have to buy a new transformer to replace the broken one that was in it, but I found a good one in another old tester. Miraculously, everything else I needed for it was available locally.

I kept the old time ground clip, but with a new grounded power cord the clip is just decoration.

I used a Fordson tire pressure gauge and a HF regulator to set the compression.

If the plug is good you see a spark in the little window when you press the button.

Made A-pillar to sub-frame brackets, left and right side. Hardly anything left of the original.

Well I got bogged down when my primary transport lost anouther fuel pump to ethanol. This one is supposed to be resistant to the stuff. Only time will tell. I did a bunch of other repairs while I was there, my girl has been neglected for the past few years with the T projects going on. She got new solenoid, starter, wiring associated with it to the battery. All the stuff I took off was at least 30 years old.

Now I'm back on the T. Still cleaning up engine parts. Found someone added a temperature sensor at some point. I will probably clean that up an add one back in the same spot. I know there is. Beautiful engine under all that rust and stuff.

Now I only poster one picture of each. Can't explain why I see multiples in the preview portion. Weird.

Started and ran both the T's up to temp. to keep them limber. Repaired a pin type switch back. Had sanded it flat so needed to put better dimples in the contacts also re-glued and installed new pins.

Finally got the rear axle together for my speedster project.

The last brackets we made were difficult to flatten on a 6" train rail. So, I went to the scrap yard today and bought 94 lbs of scrap for a home made anvil. All we have to do is save $32 to break even,

I finally finished assembling the the new Ruckstell rear end, along with two new axles, new spider gears, new ring and pinion gears, new sleeves for the roller bearings, new axle seals, inner and outer, new universal joint, and I painted it. If will will ever warm up on a weekend, I'll re-install it in the '22 coupe.

Made a bracket to hold the master cylinder for my front brakes. Tested the master cylinder. Made a rod.

Shortened and polished cam gear nut, bored and faced old cast cam gear & installed.

Opened the garage door, me and another guy looked at it for a few minutes...

try again had to resize all pictures to post 1200 -800

1926 Coupe lower left A pillar where it meets the sub-frame... The bottom flange will wrap around sub-frame rail.
Rotten side panel to get replaced after cab is united to rails.

Nice work Vernon. I can see the fun from here.
Thanks
Rich

We made our own lower seat bracket from a thick electric panel and embossed the front with a bead roller.
Note that this one is one piece, not the three piece, spot welded together. A hex bolt was cut up to make the two rounded pegs for the front of the cushion to sit upon (which is two position).
We also made the two brackets that the rear of the bottom seat rests on. Some coupes have 1, others have 2 of these brackets. Here the parts are attached to the sub-frame.

Jeff wrote: ↑

Thu Jan 10, 2019 4:33 am

Steve Jelf wrote: ↑

Wed Jan 09, 2019 11:39 am

Jeff, if you do a lot of driving, especially on less-than-perfect roads, let us know how the new radiator holds up.

Is there a concern about these new radiators from Brassworks? I just got a confirmation email and they’re 6 weeks out for delivery. Almost makes me want to tackle fixing mine again. Seems like every hole I get plugged and then another leak erupts. 5 and counting. it only leaks when it’s cold and sitting in the garage, not when I’m driving. Very strange.

I'm wondering if you just got this confirmation shortly after ordering? 'Cause if you did, you better double your wait time. They told my neighbor the same thing, it ended up being over 13 weeks, exactly as I told him, from past experience three times over. They have a small staff, so it just takes a while. I'm not dissing Brassworks, just saying not to get your hopes up. At least it's winter and you have plenty of time!

Tightened my lug nuts.

It's alive!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UVGU1D_seLc

After replacing the radiator, I found one of the mounting spring cups on the floor...

Fortunately I had not filled it yet and loosened the top hose and mounts, then lifted it up enough to get the cup in. Retighened everything and filled it with green coolant.
So far no green stuff on the floor !!

Maybe in a couple months I can road test it...

There are at least two different types of brackets for the seat back that sits on the rails for the '26-'27 coupe.
One of these is adjustable and probably accommodates the wood shelf below the back window, while the other most likely matches a metal shelf. Left and right sides are symmetrical, left side shown. These measurements are guesses from a photo that came from somewhere. Since my sub-frame rails are boxed in, the two holes on the bottom of the bracket are for plug welds, not rivets.
The most difficult part, as always, is getting the dimension.

Rebuilding the seat box for my 22 Center Door.

Here is another photo that I borrowed from somewhere for a part that you cannot buy. It is lower bracket support for the seat back that sits on top of the two sub-frame rail brackets (photos in prior post). That was confusing. I don't know what the actual length is supposed to be but it aligns up with what I've got. After two failed attempts of getting rounded ends I gave up and just cut and welded the right angle.
Since I cut the ends to fold them back, I had to sister up two inches on each end to mask the holes. The seat back will sit up 1/16" higher.

Not as much as some of you for sure. Bought a accessory modified for my 26 rpu and dropped parts to be powder coated. Drove model A to dad's last week and will tomorrow. Maybe some actual real T work next month. Been spending more time planning on what I want to do in the spring that making it happen. I love this hobby..lol

I finally finished (except some painting when it warms up) my model T trailer, I got a free cheap trailer given to me and modified the frame, put a T front axle on springs from an old buggy and was able to use parts and pieces that I had. I bought the kitchen from a fellow that was going to mount it on the wall of his shop because he thought it was interesting. I made it with a retractable tongue so it is out of the way. (got a new knee 2years ago after falling over a trailer tongue). I towed to coffee this morning and it tows really nice.

I guess that there is a limit on the number of pictures per post.

There is a bracket that screws into the wood beneath each side window and goes down to the top of the seat back bracket on early 1926-7 coupes. A later revision goes straight down, directly to the sub-frame rail. That's what's left of the rail and two visible rivets above. The right side piece was totally missing.
This is the homemade replacement piece. Here is the only original piece and the two I was hammering on today from scrap. The holes were enlarged after this photo. Measurements that I came up with are: 25" long, 1-3/8" face and 5/16" sides. No one makes these.
Also made the tiny L bracket and going to reuse the original one.

installed a newly rebuilt carburetor. Big difference in the way that the new engine runs. Next put the rebuilt front end in. Had some sun in between the snow and cold, went for a drive just to make sure I still remembered how to do it, ha, ha. Can't wait for spring.

Weather to bad to set a dog outside.
Rain, wind, cold.
Good time to go on with the engine.
Set a new third bearing on the crankshaft and regulate the rebabited rods this afternoon.

Andre
Belgium

I clean pan bolts all day yesterday

Dean, I tried to PM you but don't seem to be able to make it work. I am thinking about putting top bows and a canvas top like you have on my trailer and wondering what you used for bows ans how you attached them to the trailer? If you could post some pictures I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks, Dennis

I got ro drive 3 of my Model T s yesterday! Never drove that many in 1 day before.... the ‘26 roadster to church then the ‘19 centerdoor and ‘26 tudor to a new and upscale ‘wedding venue’ on a nearby ranch. They hired a model and commercial producer for the shoot. Gorgeous day, robin egg blue skies and 70 degree temp. Check out their website “Two Wishes Ranch” in about a month.....

Finally finished cleaning and painting the engine block. The weather and my health have not been cooperating. Its not the proper color for a 27 engine but this is for my bitsa so I went with what I've got in stock.

Received an email that my "more brighter" LED bulbs are off backorder...
The ones I got last year were 260 lumens, these are 700 lumens !!
I bought 4, 2 for my headlights and 2 for my brother's 39 Packard. $35 shipped, ledlight.com
Anxious to see how bright they are, the 260 lumen ones were a big improvement over stock, but could still be a little brighter. These should do, as long as oncoming traffic is not going in the ditch !!
I love how they barely effect the charge rate

I finally got everything I needed to install wood bands in my transmission.....including a rather neat little countersink that I modified for the job.

The first band took me about three hours. The other two about an hour each, but everything fit which is saying something for non demountable bands!

Next task is to disassemble and sandblast the hog's head, then reassemble with new parts and install. At that point, all that's left is distributor ignition, model A intake/exhaust and drop the cylinder head in place. Probably another month or so at my pace!

I go out and pet it a little from time to time .. and then start it once a week and let it run for about 45 mins.

Went out and knocked off 11" of snow off her tent garage roof yesterday. I also wrote down the numbers on her distributor. That was a pleasant surprise. She has the desired Bosch VW distributor. I will need to go through that when I rebuild the engine. Working a lot of overtime so I have the money but not the time. When I have the time, I don't have the money. Isn't that how it goes?

Not for a particular T, but for all of them. I replaced the broken window in my spark pug tester.

I ordered a couple of spares just in case of future need. Unfortunately the glass shop got them slightly too big to fit, so I had to grind them down a little. Glass is hard stuff, so it took awhile.

Wrapped up the plug stuff for now, gapping and testing two sets to carry under the seat as spares.

My 15 came with the front fenders unattached so I almost finished drilling and bolting my left fender on.
I will try and finish the left and move on to the right front today.