I recently got a broken down old Ford Model T. The rust isn’t horrendous by any sorts, but I would like to clean it all off. I could use a sand blaster or a hand sander(for drill)
To clean it off. Which one should I use or any better options? Also, is their any good paints for the internal parts that would work well with it?[image][/image]
Cleaning the rust and Painting the internal parts of the Ford Model T
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- Posts: 51
- Joined: Tue Feb 05, 2019 8:58 pm
- First Name: Bruce
- Last Name: Carswell
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1924 Model TT
- Location: Lubbock, Texas
Re: Cleaning the rust and Painting the internal parts of the Ford Model T
I had good luck with this tool from Eastwood. The previous restoration had gone really crazy with the amount of bondo on my TT. I did not want to really go to the full extent of media blasting as I was doing selective stripping down to bare metal without full disassembly. I hooked my shop vac up to it which helped keep the dust down.
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-contour-sct.html
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-contour-sct.html
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- First Name: Steve
- Last Name: Jelf
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1923 touring and a few projects
- Location: Parkerfield, Kansas
- MTFCA Number: 16175
- MTFCI Number: 14758
- Board Member Since: 2007
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Re: Cleaning the rust and Painting the internal parts of the Ford Model T
For most parts blasting is fine. For many parts a power wire brush is also good. These will remove rust and old paint. There are also chemical rust removers like molasses and Evaporust, but they won't remove the old paint. A word of caution: don't blast a complete assembly (like a carburetor or a rear axle) because no matter what you do some of your blasting medium (sand, soda, whatever) will get inside. I would blast only disassembled parts. One exception is wheels. I wrap the wood in a few layers of duct tape and blast the metal parts.
I don't have a car earlier than 1915 or later than 1923, so I use black paint. For chassis parts I use satin black Rustoleum. I think glossy chassis parts look ridiculous. YMMV.
I don't have a car earlier than 1915 or later than 1923, so I use black paint. For chassis parts I use satin black Rustoleum. I think glossy chassis parts look ridiculous. YMMV.
The inevitable often happens.
1915 Runabout
1923 Touring
1915 Runabout
1923 Touring
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- Location: Jupiter Florida
Re: Cleaning the rust and Painting the internal parts of the Ford Model T
You can look into using Ospho. It neutralizes rust and provided a paintable surface without having to wash it off. It can be used over paint, rust or bare metal so you don't have to remove all the old paint if you don't want to. If the paint is not flaking, peeling and is otherwise sound you can just feather the paint into the rusted bare metal and apply Ospho right over everything before you top coat.
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- First Name: James
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Re: Cleaning the rust and Painting the internal parts of the Ford Model T
Sandblasting should be avoided at all costs on body parts, as it can warp them irreparably. I don’t like to sandblast any parts because it makes the surface of any part you blast, very rough. Though many will disagree, in removing rust, For the last 40 years, I have always had the best results with muriatic acid. Jim Patrick.
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Re: Cleaning the rust and Painting the internal parts of the Ford Model T
Cleaning rust has become one of my favorite things. I find it almost meditative. I use a Chicago rotary tool from Amazon for about 35.00 and buy the wire brushes off eBay at about 2.00 a piece when bought in quantity of 20. If you use this method wear a respirator and saftey glasses plus gloves. The rotary tool spins at 20k rpm and throws the bristles out hard enough to puncture skin. A tetanus shot would be a good thing too. I love cleaning rust.
Just give me time to Rust and I'll be good as new. Wabi-Sabi
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Re: Cleaning the rust and Painting the internal parts of the Ford Model T
There are several "Rust Remover" or "Rust Restorer" products that basically are phosphoric acid based (always read the label for what it is supposed to do). Phosphoric acid has a unique characteristic of dissolving rust speedily. It can also leave a coating of iron phosphate which prevents further rust corrosion in the future. More importantly, it will make the metal surface of your part shiny with a hard and bright metal finish. AND Yes even Coke-a-cola contains phosphorus which gives it its tangy taste (and you know what it can do to car paint). I prefer products that claim they leave a coating on them even though I wire brush it off - there is still signs of a chemical reaction as the part has a blush tinge (nor bluing) to it. I use PVC pipe for long parts, pails or tubs for soaking. You can even place wet paper towels or rags on the surface and cover to keep the solution from evaporating. Products often recommend 1/2 hr soak. So while the price may shock you, the solution can be reused many, many times. I usually decanter the good stuff and discard the residue on the bottom of the pail. Parts should be washed and de-greased before hand. It will take loose paint off - even paint you didn't think it was loose. Picture sequence Before, blackened residue washed off, wire brushed.
The past is a great place and I don't want to erase it or to regret it, but I don't want to be its prisoner either.
Mick Jagger
Mick Jagger