Water jacket rusted through

[Chris Haynes]

The water jacket on my '21 is rusted through. Is there an acceptable way to repair them and stop the leak?

[RajoRacer]

Depends on where & how bad - this one didn't take !

[Adam]

If you found one spot rusted thru, then there are likely to be more very thin spots. The best option will probably be replacing the block with a better one.

[ThreePedalTapDancer]

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/82 ... 1530706416

[Mark Gregush]

AS you posted in the classifieds, maybe just change the title to looking for replacement block with 1921 casting date.

[Chris Haynes]

Let me add that the leaks are internal, not external. The car is titled by the this engine number I would like to keep it. Also it is standard bore and crank.

[Allan]

Chris, you can run a replacement block and keep your chosen engine number. Just remove the side water outlet and make a pattern of the outlet and the included engine number boss. Use the pattern to make a brass insert to go between the block and the water outlet. Stamp the insert with the required number. When fitting, use a heavy coat of black RTV on the engine side of the insert, and simply wipe away the excess. It will fill any discrepancy between the boss and the insert, and a coat of paint will complete the job. Nothing is ruined in this approach. You still have the original block, and the donor also remains unaltered.
I had to do this with my barn fresh buckboard, mainly because the boss was so rusted the engine number was indecipherable. To ease potential problems with the inspection station and to make their job easier, I stamped the number on the insert according to the registration certificate so they could do their checks.

Hope this helps. Allan from down under.

[Henry K. Lee]

Allan, he is in Cali-fruity and their DMV is not very friendly. Easier to just to re-stamp a block with period correct numbers and say nothing.

Hank

[Allan]

Ours are just as picky Hank, despite the $60 up front fee to do the looking. What they don't know won't bother them. Just show them where the number is, volunteer nothing, and leave them to it.

Allan from down under.

[kmatt2]

Have your engine rebuilder check your cleaned block. A internal water jacket rust crack may or may not be fixable. A crack into a cylinder can be sleved, a crack near a valve can be pinned and new seat. Some cracks into the valve galley can be hard to fix due to location.
If you go with a better block I wouldn't use the brass tag over the number boss. If the California CHP spots the tag and then finds a different number under it they won't be to kind and may impound your car. Better to use your number on the replacement block just like Ford would have done back in the 20's.

[Chris Haynes]

Chris, you can run a replacement block and keep your chosen engine number. Just remove the side water outlet and make a pattern of the outlet and the included engine number boss. Use the pattern to make a brass insert to go between the block and the water outlet. Stamp the insert with the required number. When fitting, use a heavy coat of black RTV on the engine side of the insert, and simply wipe away the excess. It will fill any discrepancy between the boss and the insert, and a coat of paint will complete the job. Nothing is ruined in this approach. You still have the original block, and the donor also remains unaltered.
I had to do this with my barn fresh buckboard, mainly because the boss was so rusted the engine number was indecipherable. To ease potential problems with the inspection station and to make their job easier, I stamped the number on the insert according to the registration certificate so they could do their checks.

Hope this helps. Allan from down under.

Obviously you have never had a serial number inspection and verification by The California Highway Patrol. Their inspectors are sharp and have all the information about a Model T, with pictures, in their cell phones.

[Dan Hatch]

Look up Loc n Stitch. They are is Ca and maybe able to help you. Maybe you can fix it yourself with their help. Dan

[Wayne Sheldon]

Califunny does NOT like engine numbers! They WANT the number on the FRAME! Need I say more?

[Adam]

Loc n Stitch is an excellent product but won’t work on a block that is rusted thru because the material to be pinned needs to be 1/8” thick. Sometimes you can fix a freeze crack with them, but rust thru is real dicey to deal with. When you start drilling into the water jacket, you generally find metal which is a very thin layer of actual good cast iron towards the outside and a layer of brittle semi-oxidized gray to black material changing into actual rust as you get into the water jacket. You need 1/8” of good silver cast iron for the pin to hold. It’s almost impossible to find any 1/8” thick metal on a “rusted thru” T block. You could remove large areas of rust-thru back to 1/8”+ good metal, make precise-fitting patches and pin them in, but that is something that is not worth while on a ‘21 block.

[Henry K. Lee]

Might want to try a cold solder method of penning into place. Just throwing out options.

Hank

[jsaylor]

In California you can use a private VIN verifier. They can provide paperwork that will allow you to get a "pink" only. When your ready to run the car take the :pinK' to he DMV and its a real short process to get tags.

[Chris Haynes]

In California you can use a private VIN verifier. They can provide paperwork that will allow you to get a "pink" only. When your ready to run the car take the :pinK' to he DMV and its a real short process to get tags.

I find the opposite. When applying for a title for a non titled vehicle or a vehicle coming from out of state the CA DMV always refers you to the CHP for verification. I have been doing this for over 50 years. I know their system well and use it often.