MTFCA Forum

I am working on wiring the bake lights today and the diagrams I see say to wire the switch to the battery post on the wiring block . This will undoubtedly provide power to the switch but won’t that mean that whenever I have the parking brake on, the brake lights are on? This seems like a good way to drain the battery. Is there a different way to wire it that will avoid this issue or should I just get used to not using the parking brake for parking?

The parking brake lever doesnt effect the brake pedal & light switch UNLESS you have R/M brakes without the linkage slider unit. Get the slider unit. Available separately from the R/M brake setup.

Another option might be to connect it to the taillight post, #4 on the wiring block. Note: Power will only be supplied to the brake light switch when you turn the ignition switch to DIM or ON. Running with the headlights & taillight on is a good safety practice (daytime running lights)

Most brakes light switches are activated by the movement of the the transmission brake pedal, not the rear wheel emergency hand brake. The brake light should only come on when the Brake pedal is pushed. However if the brake light switch sticks it will run your battery down. a small led light on your dash board wired to the brake lights will let you know when they are on and if the switch is sticking. I always disconnect my battery when the car is not being driven.

My 22 has Rocky Mountain brakes without the slider, but I have been meaning to get one. I wired it to the post where the ammeter and generator are and it works fine.

My 22 has Rocky Mountain brakes without the slider, but I have been meaning to get one. When I pull the hand brake back, the brake pedal moves. I wired it to the post where the ammeter and generator are and it works fine.

Reno Speedster wrote: ↑

Sat Oct 15, 2022 4:52 pm

My 22 has Rocky Mountain brakes without the slider, but I have been meaning to get one. When I pull the hand brake back, the brake pedal moves. I wired it to the post where the ammeter and generator are and it works fine.

Your initial concern was about wiring it to the battery post on the terminal block and the battery going dead. If you follow the wiring diagram from the post were the ammeter & generator are you'll see it goes to same post #3 then to the battery. Now if your battery isn't going dead, perhaps the brake pedal isn't making contact with the brake switch. Pretty much wiring diagrams are the same except for headlights

Yeah, I saw that and tested it it with a test light. I picked the generator terminal as it had a bit more space for the new wire. At the moment, I am leaving the parking brake off.

Here are some shots of the brake lights installed. I made the mounts and installed a wiring block under the bed of the truck bed to make the wiring nest and simple. I used some stainless steel clips and screws to hold the wiring in place on the bed. I made wire holders from rubber grommets and safety wire to hold the wires running up to the brake switch, the ground, and wiring block on the dash. Installing the block under the bed means I have some spare connections if I ever decide to install turn signals.

I use a brake light switch on the brake peddle on the ignition side of the switch but the tail light hot to battery with an other switch so I can leave the tail light on if I find myself on the side of the road having to leave the car at night on my firetruck. Only had to leave it one time. I had a flashing battery powered light on the back but it was dead by the time I got back with the trailer. Almost didn't find it to pick it up.

This is about as simple as it gets. Fused power comes from the adjacent starter switch. This brake light switch comes on when the pedal is pushed just like modern cars. This switch was from an 80's Japanese car. The whole switch is adjustable in the bracket to set it got operation.

Allan from down under.

The vendors used to sell a version of what you built that clamps to the frame with the brake switch activated by the movement of the brake pedal. But if they still do its probably out of stock like almost every thing else.

The vendors sell a version of switch that clamps on the starter solenoid cover and works well. I had to shorten the plunger end to get everything to line up.

ALSO, you might want to get this moved into the General Discussion area and out of the Parts For Sale area.

Good Luck,

Yeah, not sure how I put it here. If a moderator can move it I would be thankful.