MTFCA Forum

WTB # 42 ignition key, But did not see this # on the key list. MY switch has 42 stamped on it, Any one else run into this? Thanks. Mike

Most likely Dodge or aftermarket.

Michael: As Steve suggests, Briggs & Stratton made locks and switches for a number of manufacturers. If the #42 lock is in your Model T it's likely a replacement. To my knowledge, those Briggs lock cylinders fit the Model T, at least some do, I found one at Hershey that fit my '26.

As for the keys, try to contact Douglas Vogel at Dexter MI. He has an incredible key collection and he's a regular at Hershey. If you have a Briggs lock, I bet he has an original key at a fair price. Sorry, I don't have a complete address for Mr Vogel, others here might and Mr Google may be of some assistance. Good luck, these functional original locks are vastly superior to the modern replica pseudo #55's.

micshotrodgarage wrote: ↑

Tue May 13, 2025 7:43 am

WTB # 42 ignition key, But did not see this # on the key list. MY switch has 42 stamped on it, Any one else run into this? Thanks. Mike

While Briggs & Stratton was the predominate manufacturer of the switches, CLUM was also making them. The internal parts of early switches were entirely different than the later ones. In fact I have at leas 11 variations. I'm thinking that you have a CLUM switch because of the number. In any case
it would help to see the switch face, keyway & handle, as in the picture below. You can see that the CLUM keyway is a different design. I have a number of Dodge Brothers keys, similar in shape as Ford, but their numbers range from 101-125
-- --
--

Gentlemen, Thank you for you helpful information. I will try to post a picture of my key switch very soon .It most likely is an after market part, but sure looks like the other Ford ones I have, A very good copy. Mike

micshotrodgarage wrote: ↑

Wed May 14, 2025 7:45 am

Gentlemen, Thank you for you helpful information. I will try to post a picture of my key switch very soon .It most likely is an after market part, but sure looks like the other Ford ones I have, A very good copy. Mike

Also take a picture of the backing plate. It will ID, Briggs, CLUM & even if a repro.
-- --
Many variations of CLUM
--

Here are a few pictures of my ignition switch with the # 42 next to the key slot. I wasn't able to take a closeup of the # but Looks closer to A Ford then any thing I have seen, Although the jury is still out with no know # 42 keyed ignition? I do have a set of T master keys and one did turn the lock to the right. Also wasn't to read anything on the back, but it does look like the first "Briggs & statton" photo from TDRxB2. This may never amount to anything but a Model T era mystery. Mike

The pictures generate more questions and a path to resolve them.

Looking at the pictures of the switch..
How long have you had his switch / where did you get it (may help understand if its been modified)
The switch plate has Ford script behind the lower part of the handle - likely an original
The handle condition doesn't match the rusty plate - (modified?)
The two rivets don't look original, but could be.
The backing plate is the final design used - the tabs don't look like they have been messed with, that would have caused markings in the backing plate so might not have been modified.

If you can rotate the cylinder without a key inserted in it (maybe one just in a bit to try) - then its split and no use getting a matching key.
When turning the handle you should feel it going over some indents that are in the underside of the backing plate. If not then it needs repair or replace (the fuzzy paper outer layer may not mean it needs replacement could be surface)

Given what I see I would remove the backing plate and see what the guts look like. Some designs do not require the rivets to be removed to get to the cylinder

Frank,
First off,Your knowledge on these T parts is very impressive. and I have enjoyed seeing the pictures of your extensive collection of T and pre war parts.I am not new to pre war Fords, but my 27 Roadster pickup is my first Model T. I have had it for about three years. As for this switch; I have had it for only a week. I was doing some horse trading of old car parts with a friend, and he had this pile of T Parts in a chicken coop, "All four door stuff. I ended up with a pickup load UGG! The switch came out of the cowl. So if anyone is in need of 24-25 four door sheet metal I have most of a body. A soon to be posted. What I really need is an ignition dash switch for my 27 pickup. I will try your suggestions and fiddle with it some more. Thanks...Mike

So for you '27 pickup wouldn't you want a switch for that year. Oval shape. Note the repro switches (chrome handle) do not have a good record.
The ammeter you have has value if it works.

This is a picture of a restored original
-- --
--
Repro switch with repro cylinder and keys (chrome plated instead of nickle)
-

Frank, That would be the one I need. I do have the nickel face plate part, So I'm hoping I can use parts from the one I picked up and make it work? I have seen the replacement parts for these, but I didn't see a separate lock cylinder available? Also I'm sure a member of the clue here might have one to sell, see what I can come up with the parts I have first. Might need to ask your advice as I go along if you don't mind. Thanks...mike

micshotrodgarage wrote: ↑

Thu May 15, 2025 12:31 pm

Frank, That would be the one I need. I do have the nickel face plate part, So I'm hoping I can use parts from the one I picked up and make it work? I have seen the replacement parts for these, but I didn't see a separate lock cylinder available? Also I'm sure a member of the clue here might have one to sell, see what I can come up with the parts I have first. Might need to ask your advice as I go along if you don't mind. Thanks...mike

The repro cylinders don't fit very well (note they say for use without the sleeve that fits over the cylinder). That's what the wafers fall into to cause a lock. The diagram is a generalization of the assembly as there are two different backing plates (clip & pin types) and the method that the sleeve & handle attach to large & small contact disks

Michael, Steve Tomaso may have an original you could buy.