I'm in! I'm in!

[George Andreasen]

Well, Chris stuck to his guns and after several failed attempts I got access to the forum. Not sure if I want to change my password...........might "hex" something.

On to model T subjects"

Regarding those new, modern style oil seals.....check for fit BEFORE you goober everything up with gasket compound, only to find the seal is too thick for the recess in the timing cover. My original timing cover had a crack, so a good one was purchased from a member. The new cover was nicely primed and clean, so I just painted it and let it dry. Did I check the seal in the new cover? N00000.

End result was that I had to grind the outer metal edge of the seal until it was at the same level as the rubber.....then it fit. And that brings us to subject number two....

I had purchased two cans of engine paint for my project. Got the basic short block done and painted it some months ago. As I bolted the new timing cover on, I was shocked to see it was at least two shades lighter than the block.........from the same can! The only reason I could think of was that I didn't shake the can enough, so I shook it very thoroughly and sprayed a scrap piece. Still too light! Can paint magically change color while inside the can???

[Steve Jelf]

I don't think so. But different batches of paint, officially the same color, may vary from time to time. The same applies to the type of finish. I use black satin Rustoleum for engines and other chassis parts. So far it's always been the same black, but sometimes the satin has been almost flat, and other times more toward glossy.

[Ruxstel24]

Fast drying paint can flash or turn milky if it's too hot and/or humid. Lacquer is very susceptible to it. We used to use a slower drying thinner in the body shop I worked at 30 some years ago.
Obviously doesn't work for a rattle can...