1926 Model T

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4banger1988
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1926 Model T

Post by 4banger1988 » Mon Apr 15, 2019 12:38 pm

Hi Guys

I have a problem, I recently drove with my Model T and radiator water leaked when I saw the head gasket direction cabin.
It went uphill and the Ford is still in the test phase
have already installed a new head gasket.
Have now tightened the cap screws slightly on 60ft lbs
I have not driven since then, just wanted to ask if this engine and the radiator water can get into the engine and cause damage there?
because if it just rausläuft I say it is not bad at first
then I can have my head sometime plan
greetz patrick

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Ruxstel24
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Re: 1926 Model T

Post by Ruxstel24 » Mon Apr 15, 2019 1:07 pm

If I understand your question...
Yes water/coolant can mix with the oil from a leaking head gasket.
Change the oil after reassemble and I would change it again after warming it up and re torque the head bolts. 60 ft lbs is a little high, don't pull the threads out of the block ! :shock:


Topic author
4banger1988
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Re: 1926 Model T

Post by 4banger1988 » Mon Apr 15, 2019 3:46 pm

OK

that means changing the oil
see when draining if there is already water in it.
The amount of oil is how much? 3,4 liters?


Scott_Conger
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Re: 1926 Model T

Post by Scott_Conger » Mon Apr 15, 2019 4:05 pm

60ft/lb on head bolts (cap screws) is asking for trouble and I would not be surprised if some threads are not starting to yield. These old blocks do not withstand that much torque. "Tight" with a 8 inch long wrench is plenty, and if you must use a torque wrench...50ft/lb is plenty.
Scott Conger

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John.Zibell
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Re: 1926 Model T

Post by John.Zibell » Mon Apr 15, 2019 9:08 pm

4banger1988 wrote:
Mon Apr 15, 2019 3:46 pm
OK

that means changing the oil
see when draining if there is already water in it.
The amount of oil is how much? 3,4 liters?
4 liters is fine. Any extra will quickly leak out. When you do drain the oil you suspect has water in it jack up the front end do get the oil in the dippers to drain back. Remember do not jack from the center of the axle, it will bend. Jack up each side and use jack stands.
1926 Tudor


Topic author
4banger1988
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Re: 1926 Model T

Post by 4banger1988 » Tue Apr 16, 2019 6:01 am

Yes, the screws were very loose, could easily follow them with a normal key. Since my torque wrench makes a little less, I may have 55 ft Lbs
but no screw had yielded everything well so far

Do I really understand how to lift the front axle while changing the oil, but does it bends when I jack it up in the middle?
then let in 4 liters of pure and rest on the upper drain plug because there is the right level right?

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Humblej
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Re: 1926 Model T

Post by Humblej » Tue Apr 16, 2019 4:22 pm

Patrick, I agree with Dave, I would not bother jacking the front axle, change the oil, drive it awhile, change the oil again.
Oil level should be between the petcocks. If oil comes out the lower petcock you have enough, if oil comes out the top petcock you have too much.


Topic author
4banger1988
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Re: 1926 Model T

Post by 4banger1988 » Thu Apr 18, 2019 6:01 am

Yes

I have changed the oil, luckily there was no water
The head gasket seems to be tight, but still a lot of it is still out, first thought that the block has a crack but I suspect that there is a frost plug !?
I try to send pictures
What can I do if the picture is too big to send?
I thought only that the water comes out of the lid of the as I think there is the one to the valves to adjust, is that correct? but it definitely does not come out, rather out of the frost plug

greetz patrick from germany


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4banger1988
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Re: 1926 Model T

Post by 4banger1988 » Thu Apr 18, 2019 6:03 am

Image

Image


Topic author
4banger1988
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Re: 1926 Model T

Post by 4banger1988 » Thu Apr 18, 2019 6:05 am

I hope you can see something
Should it be a froststop or?
On the right side
When I make out the engine comes out more like during the ride


Topic author
4banger1988
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Re: 1926 Model T

Post by 4banger1988 » Thu Apr 18, 2019 6:09 am

Image


Topic author
4banger1988
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Re: 1926 Model T

Post by 4banger1988 » Fri Apr 19, 2019 3:00 pm

?

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DanTreace
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Re: 1926 Model T

Post by DanTreace » Fri Apr 19, 2019 3:17 pm

Likely the core, frost or 'welsh' plug on the block, which is used to plug the core hole, has now rusted through and is leaking coolant from the block. Time to replace the plugs, or for temp fix, smear some JB Weld or other epoxy over the remains of the plug.


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The best way is always the simplest. The attics of the world are cluttered up with complicated failures. Henry Ford
Don’t find fault, find a remedy; anybody can complain. Henry Ford

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DanTreace
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Re: 1926 Model T

Post by DanTreace » Fri Apr 19, 2019 3:34 pm

J B Weld fix, still holding after 6 years ;)

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The best way is always the simplest. The attics of the world are cluttered up with complicated failures. Henry Ford
Don’t find fault, find a remedy; anybody can complain. Henry Ford


Topic author
4banger1988
Posts: 50
Joined: Mon Apr 01, 2019 7:32 am
First Name: Patrick
Last Name: Ortlauf
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Ford Model T Two Door Sedan
Location: Schrozberg
Board Member Since: 2019

Re: 1926 Model T

Post by 4banger1988 » Sat Apr 20, 2019 3:18 am

or right thanks
i make new freeze plugs in there,
i make a little bit loctite on the freeze plugs thats ok?

and the valve play adjustment?can say me how much is the play on outlet and on inlet valve?
then I'll do it with you

greetz patrick

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Ruxstel24
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Re: 1926 Model T

Post by Ruxstel24 » Sat Apr 20, 2019 6:52 pm

You need to know what kind of valves you have before you adjust them. Original cast two piece valve clearance is quite large (0.030" if I recall), for expansion.
Newer stainless can be ran much tighter.
0.010" I and 0.012" E...

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