Boiled linseed oil for pickup box
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Topic author - Posts: 1011
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- First Name: Mark
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Boiled linseed oil for pickup box
The vintage pickup box I just installed on the ‘23 runabout has some original paint but also lots of bare wood. Am thinking of maintaining it with boiled linseed oil. Wondering if anyone else has used this for sealing original exposed wood on commercial bodies in similar condition.
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Re: Boiled linseed oil for pickup box
Mark, we are currently making a wood running board toolbox for our RPU and will use boiled linseed oil for the exterior parts. It does seem to take “a month of sundays “ to dry but we have always liked the look when done. Good choice in my opinion. JP
1913 Model T Runabout,
1926 Model T Touring,
1948 Chrysler New Yorker,
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1926 Model T Touring,
1948 Chrysler New Yorker,
1991 Mazda Miata
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Re: Boiled linseed oil for pickup box
Straight linseed oil will stay sticky for months. To get linseed oil to dry mix in japan dryer and keep the coats thin. Brush on, let it sit a few minutes, then wipe off with a dry rag, let dry overnight, repeat.
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Re: Boiled linseed oil for pickup box
Also when working with linseed oil, do not pile up used rags or put them in a bucket. They are easily combustible.
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Re: Boiled linseed oil for pickup box
I've used it on gunstocks and an old Wurlitzer crate I wanted to preserve, it definitely gives the wood some depth and darkens it up some. I had the best results wiping some on, letting it sit 5 minutes and then wiping the excess off. I'd let it dry 24 hours and then repeat until I built up the finish I wanted. If I put a heavy coat on and did not wipe the excess off it dried slowwwwwwwwww... ain't nobody got time for that
... and my number is Beechwood 4-5789
1926 Touring - "Corrina"
1926 Touring - "Corrina"
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Re: Boiled linseed oil for pickup box
I've always wondered about why that is... Is it the drying process that creates enough heat to combust? Makes me wonder why everything that is coated in linseed oil doesn't burst into flames At any rate I do as you suggest and treat linseed oil soaked rags like a disaster waiting to happen... I've see the results of a fire from placing them in a trash can, bad deal.
... and my number is Beechwood 4-5789
1926 Touring - "Corrina"
1926 Touring - "Corrina"
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Re: Boiled linseed oil for pickup box
Love the the new duds, I am looking for the same for my 14. Thanks for posting, and thanks Daryl for the safety alert.
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Keep it simple and keep a good junk pile if you want to invent something
Keep it simple and keep a good junk pile if you want to invent something
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Re: Boiled linseed oil for pickup box
Penetrol is another way to go, without the long, sticky drying time.
Allan from down under.
Allan from down under.
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Re: Boiled linseed oil for pickup box
I just looked up the definition of "spontaneous combustion". Linseed oil was a specific example. It is caused by the build-up of heat caused by oxidation in a confined space with no ventilation (pile of rags in a bucket).
Oxidation and drying are two different processes.
Oxidation of a material creates a chemically different material with some similar properties of the original material (rust).
The drying process is caused by evaporation of the original material where as the chemical composition remains the same. The temperature of vaporization (liquid to vapor) is different for each chemical.
This is why the material that had the linseed oil application (wooden pickup box / gun stock) does not spontaneously combust.
Oxidation and drying are two different processes.
Oxidation of a material creates a chemically different material with some similar properties of the original material (rust).
The drying process is caused by evaporation of the original material where as the chemical composition remains the same. The temperature of vaporization (liquid to vapor) is different for each chemical.
This is why the material that had the linseed oil application (wooden pickup box / gun stock) does not spontaneously combust.
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Re: Boiled linseed oil for pickup box
Boiled Linseed Oil used on any wood and kept in a humid climate will create a tremendous mold/mildew problem. Mark might be OK in NY, but the same use in MN might be problematic. In Florida, it was a disaster. I was prepping a window casing on our old house the way the "experts" suggested, and as I had used it to French Polish furniture, I figured it was fine for exterior use, too. What could possibly go wrong? Only got one window done that summer (thank goodness!!). Before the year was out, it was black with mold/mildew coming through the paint. More research explained why. No matter what I did to that window, it was always a problem. No other window was thusly treated and no other window was a problem.
Scott Conger
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
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Re: Boiled linseed oil for pickup box
Close, Kim, but no cee-gar. Linseed oil (or any drying oil) absorbs oxygen from ambient air and oxidizes in "drying" to form an irreversable polymer. Some violatiles do evaporate during drying.
The only coating I'm aware of that dries strictly by evaporation is nitrocellulose lacquer. The dried film remains soluble in the parent solvent indefinitely.
The only coating I'm aware of that dries strictly by evaporation is nitrocellulose lacquer. The dried film remains soluble in the parent solvent indefinitely.
"Get a horse !"
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Re: Boiled linseed oil for pickup box
Everything said about it catching fire (the soaked applicator) is true! Dispose of it in a bucket of water!!!
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Re: Boiled linseed oil for pickup box
I love boiled linseed oil, it is my favorite go to wood preserver. I primarily mix it with turpentine at minimum 50:50 (no more than 50% linseed oil). Been known to also add kerosene or mineral spirits too, grandfather always added kerosene. I think it is a great wood preserver. It will soak into soft wood, and will stabilize it. It does stink, and it does take a long time to dry, especially if it soaks in deep.
On my new spokes it took about a week to fully dry (non tack, no odor). My old wood garage door that I just did yesterday, I expect it will take a month in the lower corners to fully dry. Also it does add a shine to the wood, you can knock it down with some steel wool later.
On my new spokes it took about a week to fully dry (non tack, no odor). My old wood garage door that I just did yesterday, I expect it will take a month in the lower corners to fully dry. Also it does add a shine to the wood, you can knock it down with some steel wool later.
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Re: Boiled linseed oil for pickup box
Cutting the linseed oil with a solvent is a good way to control application and aid in penetration. Turpentine or mineral spirits may not penetrate quite as deep as kerosene, but either will dry faster. No need to have it "puddle". Apply 50/50 to saturation, wipe off the excess. Heavy applications will wrinkle on drying, and that's not helpful.
"Get a horse !"
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Re: Boiled linseed oil for pickup box
We learned about "spontaneous combustion" when I was in grade school. Thought they taught it to everyone......guess not.....a workman at the local school district office thew a bunch of linseed oil soaked rags in the corner before the weekend. $200,000 damage from the fire. Workman had never heard of spontaneous combustion, but he knows now!
Just about any oil will self combust, but linseed is the worst offender. So, put those oily shop rags in a METAL can with a cover.
Just a thought on applying the oil.....rub it on cross grain occasionally. The oil penetrates the grain better. Another neat trick (before oiling): wet a rag with black modeling paint and rub it on cross grain, immediately wipe off the surplus, then oil after it dries. REALLY makes the grain stand out. Learned that when rebuilding antique wood box telephones years ago.
Just about any oil will self combust, but linseed is the worst offender. So, put those oily shop rags in a METAL can with a cover.
Just a thought on applying the oil.....rub it on cross grain occasionally. The oil penetrates the grain better. Another neat trick (before oiling): wet a rag with black modeling paint and rub it on cross grain, immediately wipe off the surplus, then oil after it dries. REALLY makes the grain stand out. Learned that when rebuilding antique wood box telephones years ago.
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Re: Boiled linseed oil for pickup box
Looking at the box again, I am thinking that putting a linseed oil (or any material short of a full restoration, which I think is not warranted or desireable on this car) would be a mistake that cannot be undone. It will forever darken the wood, losing the "as-it-sat" look. Additionally, unless many many coats are applied, it will not protect against water (it is not a top finish)...I am certain that lots of people will argue this point, but if some research is done, it will be shown to be an accurate statement.
I vote "no" to an unasked question.
I vote "no" to an unasked question.
Scott Conger
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
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Re: Boiled linseed oil for pickup box
Scott, that's another reason I suggest Penetrol as the treatment. I wish I could access my trailer to show how it has worked for me, but I cannot access it in its storage place. It is a timber pre-treatment before painting,acts as a key to finishes and helps thin finishes being applied to make application easier. It brushes on just like paint, so no rags to self combust. and no extended drying time. What is there not to like?
Allan from down under.
Allan from down under.
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Topic author - Posts: 1011
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Re: Boiled linseed oil for pickup box
Here is the box after one application of linseed oil / turps / japan drier. I have to take the box off again to shim where the mounting bolts pass so that they don’t pull so hard on the boards. I’ll coat the underside at that time .. though those areas still have most of the original paint.
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Re: Boiled linseed oil for pickup box
It's perfect..........you have the right method. Congrats!
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Re: Boiled linseed oil for pickup box
That looks good'r hell! Job well done!
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Re: Boiled linseed oil for pickup box
Cutting linseed oil with mineral spirits will give much deeper penetration and
faster drying times/less sticky. 3-4 coats will pretty much max out effective
application. In Model T days, it was common to add colorants to the mixture.
Graphite would do that old black justice. Rags go in the wood stove when done
with them, no exceptions. The beauty of non-skinning oil applications is, when
the wood begans to appear dry again .... perhaps after years of exposure, you
just slop some more on and you are good to go. With materials that leave a top
"skin", it just peels and what remains prevents new material from getting to the
wood.
faster drying times/less sticky. 3-4 coats will pretty much max out effective
application. In Model T days, it was common to add colorants to the mixture.
Graphite would do that old black justice. Rags go in the wood stove when done
with them, no exceptions. The beauty of non-skinning oil applications is, when
the wood begans to appear dry again .... perhaps after years of exposure, you
just slop some more on and you are good to go. With materials that leave a top
"skin", it just peels and what remains prevents new material from getting to the
wood.
More people are doing it today than ever before !
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Topic author - Posts: 1011
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Re: Boiled linseed oil for pickup box
I usually add lamp black (not graphite) to green Rustoleum for certain applications. So, yes .. I can see doing that with the next application of linseed oil. These boxes were always painted and this one has the original black underneath. Thanks for the suggestion.
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Re: Boiled linseed oil for pickup box
I got it! Been waiting. I can actually smell that oil. I like it.
Looks nice Mark.
Looks nice Mark.
Since I lost my mind mind, I feel more liberated