1916 runabout door doesn’t fit

[w_cbeyer@hotmail.com]

I have a newly acquired 16 runabout, the door seems too big for the opening. If I push at the base of the windshield on the right side I can get it closed. Does anyone have any tips on what I can do to correct this? I’m new to model Ts.

[Moxie26]

The underlaid wood framing in the cowl needs attention and straightening

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

I have a newly acquired 16 runabout, the door seems too big for the opening. If I push at the base of the windshield on the right side I can get it closed. Does anyone have any tips on what I can do to correct this? I’m new to model Ts.

Place shims, (washers), between the body mounting points and the frame in order to raise or lower areas of the body as needed to widen the door opening. You can see that by simply pushing on the window frame, as you have done, that the body is flexible enough to handle it.


Actually, it's most likely that your frame is a bit sagged out. Some strategic shimming however can correct it if it's not too severe.

[John kuehn]

Remember that Model T bodies up to early 25 are wood structured bodies covered over sheet metal. They do flex over time. Shims are needed for yours. Remove the floor boards and you can see the brackets on the body wood where they are attached with a bolt to the frame.
You might need to add a shim ( washers) between the frame and body wood to move the body upward a bit.

You can crawl under the car and look upward to see if the wood underneath looks original or if the car was rewooded sometime later.

[w_cbeyer@hotmail.com]

Thanks for the info, I knew there would be a wealth of good info on here. I’m pretty sure everything is original on this car it’s been on blocks for more than 50 years

[w_cbeyer@hotmail.com]

Do you think a washer under the right front bracket will do it? I removed the bolt but it doesn’t appear that I can lift it very easily.

[TMiller6]

What is the condition of your plywood firewall? I would also check the two bolts that are visible above the hood. I would also check the three step bolts (large head carriage bolts) that secure the right side of the firewall to the iron brackets bolted to the top of the frame.

If any of these bolts are loose, you could see the cowl rocking and pinching the door,

[Ed Baudoux]

Remember that Model T bodies up to early 25 are wood structured bodies covered over sheet metal. They do flex over time. Shims are needed for yours. Remove the floor boards and you can see the brackets on the body wood where they are attached with a bolt to the frame.
You might need to add a shim ( washers) between the frame and body wood to move the body upward a bit.

You can crawl under the car and look upward to see if the wood underneath looks original or if the car was rewooded sometime later.

And, Fordors are wood structure through 1927.

[TMiller6]

In regards to Ed’s comment about wooden Fordors, the first steel bodied Fordor was offered in 1931. So Model A has its share of wood issues too.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

Do you think a washer under the right front bracket will do it? I removed the bolt but it doesn’t appear that I can lift it very easily.

Only you can really know that, since you have the car to examine. I would guess that the mount to shim would be the one closest to the door opening. As to its being easy, you'll probably have to do some prying to open up a gap for a shim washer, (or two, or...).

[Mike Silbert]

On a 1916 Runabout the issue as described probably is the door hinge pillar has started to drop.
Years of flexing while driving and the constant pulling of the windshield by the top takes it toll eventually.
The joints between the wood pillar hinge post and wood body sill has probably started to loosen up.
Shimming the body bracket will have limited results due to the other brackets along the frame.
It might work some, it might not.

Pushing up on the windshield restores proper alignment of the hinge post and allows the door to fit in the opening.
To prove this is the issue or not, push on the windshield and see where and what moves.
Re-wooding the car is the best solution to this problem but there is a repair that can be done and work quite well.

If the hinge post is moving around here is how to repair it:
Remove the interior panel in front of the door carefully so it can be reused.
Get some metal corner brace(s) from the hardware store (or make one) that can connect the hinge pillar to the rail.
Move / brace / support the pillar until it is in the proper position.
Install the brace(s) in the area behind the upholstery panel to reinforce the joint.
Remove the support(s) and test the door.
If it works good then reinstall the interior panel.

Then go enjoy the car

[w_cbeyer@hotmail.com]

Thanks I will try that, I shimmed the frame bracket and it improved a bit.