Just wondering. Is there any help for braking power for my '25? Linkage set, band adjusted but really have to apply a lot of force to slow to a stop. I anticipate a stop well in advance, use low speed compression before braking. What, if any other considerations are there? I've heard good and bad about Rocky Mountain brakes and would invest in them if it really would benefit. I live in a realtively flat area.
Is this what I just need to live with? Any suggestions out there?
Stopping Power
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Scott_Conger
- Posts: 6435
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:18 am
- First Name: Scott
- Last Name: Conger
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: '13, '15, '19, '23
- Location: Clark, WY
- Board Member Since: 2005
Re: Stopping Power
Model T's have marginal brakes at best. That said, that much force and little stopping power leads me to believe that either your bands are shot, or your pedal cam and pedal support are worn out...not getting enough sideways squeeze for all that forward push.
Scott Conger
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
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Norman Kling
- Posts: 4092
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 1:39 pm
- First Name: Norman
- Last Name: Kling
- Location: Alpine California
Re: Stopping Power
Rocky's work very well going forward. and when dry. The trick is to get things adjusted so that the Rocky's begin to stop before the transmission brake so that if you push hard both sets of brakes are in operation. If you have a Ruckstell it will also amplify the transmission brake when the Ruckstell is engaged. It is similar to the engine compression works better in low than in high. I have not tried disk brakes on a T but from those who have them, they like them. They just don't look period correct, but they do work very well.
Norm
Norm
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A Whiteman
- Posts: 1011
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 3:36 pm
- First Name: Adrian
- Last Name: Whiteman
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 TT, 1924 Colonial Roadster, 1924 'Bullnose' Morris, 1925 'Bullnose' Morris, 1936 JD AR
- Location: South Island, New Zealand
Re: Stopping Power
Very pleased to read that you plan in advance, that is the nature of the T.
Beware of 'TORU' they can catch you out when they see that planned gap in front of you
I would agree with Scott, if lots of force is needed that does suggest a problem with the bands (worn maybe) or the linkage adjustment. Further checks required.
(The Other Road Users)
Beware of 'TORU' they can catch you out when they see that planned gap in front of you
I would agree with Scott, if lots of force is needed that does suggest a problem with the bands (worn maybe) or the linkage adjustment. Further checks required.
(The Other Road Users)
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John iaccino
- Posts: 747
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 5:25 am
- First Name: John
- Last Name: Iaccino
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1911 Roadster, Open Runnabout
- Location: Rhinebeck, NY
- MTFCA Number: 17802
Re: Stopping Power
In addition to what the others have said, use your throttle as a brake. If you try to use the brake pedal without moving the throttle all the way up, you will be fighting the engine while you try to slow down.
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paul hoogendoorn
- Posts: 20
- Joined: Thu Jan 17, 2019 10:26 am
- First Name: Paul
- Last Name: Hoogendoorn
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1922 Runabout
- Location: South Africa
Re: Stopping Power
I had this hard braking problem as well and discovered by chance that I had perfect brakes with the floorboards removed....the brake pedal was bent forward to such an extent that the cam only engaged well below floor board level. Applying heat and bending the pedal back solved the problem. Having an oil filter/band oiler in place helps preserve the lining. Also, in traffic I make use of the emergency hand brake as well....rear wheel brake linings are relatively cheap to replace. Just be careful not to overheat the thin rear brake drums.