Engine Oil ???
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Topic author - Posts: 46
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Engine Oil ???
Hello,
I'm just another new guy learning and working on my newly acquired Model Ts.
I live in Texas and would like to know what oil to use.
I have read many opinions on this site. But the discussion goes into
so much technical stuff and contradicting opinions that I get lost.
Without all the technical jargon, what are most T owners using on their T engines.
I have just replaced to bands and need to add oil.
What should I use?
Thanks!!!
I'm just another new guy learning and working on my newly acquired Model Ts.
I live in Texas and would like to know what oil to use.
I have read many opinions on this site. But the discussion goes into
so much technical stuff and contradicting opinions that I get lost.
Without all the technical jargon, what are most T owners using on their T engines.
I have just replaced to bands and need to add oil.
What should I use?
Thanks!!!
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Re: Engine Oil ???
Any gasoline approved 10W-30 is fine.
You’re in the classifieds for what ever reason.
You’re in the classifieds for what ever reason.
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Topic author - Posts: 46
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Re: Engine Oil ???
Thanks!
Ruxstel24 !!
Ruxstel24 !!
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Re: Engine Oil ???
Probably the more important question, that wasn't asked, is: What tips would you suggest when I replace the bands?
See: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/33 ... 1384450759 Anthonie Boer's methodology.
at a minimum:
Bands should be reworked to be round
Lining should extend enough to ensure no part of the metal portion of the band can ever contact the drums
Lining should be installed in a highly compressed state (see the hump in the material)
If you are using Kevlar:
ensure the lining you bought is sealed on the ends
remove hog's head to ensure the round bands are NOT distorted in any way during installation
See: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/33 ... 1384450759 Anthonie Boer's methodology.
at a minimum:
Bands should be reworked to be round
Lining should extend enough to ensure no part of the metal portion of the band can ever contact the drums
Lining should be installed in a highly compressed state (see the hump in the material)
If you are using Kevlar:
ensure the lining you bought is sealed on the ends
remove hog's head to ensure the round bands are NOT distorted in any way during installation
Scott Conger
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
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Re: Engine Oil ???
What if kevlar bands are not sealed on the ends? I am looking at the installation inst. and it doesn't mention sealing them. I am getting that "Oh, crap" feeling again. What is used to "seal" them?
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Topic author - Posts: 46
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Re: Engine Oil ???
Thanks for the tips, but to late for me.
I've have installed the Scandinavian bands. Got them with no instructions. So I soaked them in oil and installed them
like I would install brake shoes. No hump in the middle. Hope they last me.
I've have installed the Scandinavian bands. Got them with no instructions. So I soaked them in oil and installed them
like I would install brake shoes. No hump in the middle. Hope they last me.
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Re: Engine Oil ???
Steve
FWIW: If the bands were NOS and short enough to fit with no hump, you'll want to keep a close eye on them. Nearly all NOS have shrunk in length and the fiber has degraded over time. Regardless of material or brand, band lining should be well longer than the steel part and require significant compressing to smooth out the "hump". This makes the weave very dense and wear the longest.
Keith
if they were hard as a rock on the very end, they were sealed. If they were fuzzy and looking like they might unravel, they were not.
The bulk of Kevlar bands I've seen in the last 10 or so years are sealed. I only mentioned it on the off chance that they had not been done (I only buy one brand and they are all sealed).
Huge odds that you're fine.
Treat low gently, lock up quickly and pump brakes when you are able to, will give the most life.Hope they last me.
FWIW: If the bands were NOS and short enough to fit with no hump, you'll want to keep a close eye on them. Nearly all NOS have shrunk in length and the fiber has degraded over time. Regardless of material or brand, band lining should be well longer than the steel part and require significant compressing to smooth out the "hump". This makes the weave very dense and wear the longest.
Keith
if they were hard as a rock on the very end, they were sealed. If they were fuzzy and looking like they might unravel, they were not.
The bulk of Kevlar bands I've seen in the last 10 or so years are sealed. I only mentioned it on the off chance that they had not been done (I only buy one brand and they are all sealed).
Huge odds that you're fine.
Scott Conger
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
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Re: Engine Oil ???
Thanks for posting Scott that info. Most do not know.
All the Best,
Hank
P.S. Still have some snow chains if you need them! LOL
All the Best,
Hank
P.S. Still have some snow chains if you need them! LOL
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Re: Engine Oil ???
Only use Non-detergent oil 30 nd, Detergent oil and synthetic oil will short out the Magneto plate. Change every 500-1000 miles.
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Re: Engine Oil ???
There's good advice, bad advice, and then there's advice that defies all credibility.
Modern oil will not short out the mag
Non-detergent will slowly build sludge in the dips where it never drains. When these cars were new, it was not uncommon to have to adjust bearings every several thousand miles. If you want to do that today, non-detergent oil is the oil for you.
Modern oil will not short out the mag
Non-detergent will slowly build sludge in the dips where it never drains. When these cars were new, it was not uncommon to have to adjust bearings every several thousand miles. If you want to do that today, non-detergent oil is the oil for you.
Scott Conger
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
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Re: Engine Oil ???
Lets put things in perspective. Modern oil filters and oil technology recommends oil changes every 5,000 miles (on new cars). Prior to that the recommend mileage was 1,000 miles. Non-detergent oil is designed to let the dirty oil collect inside the engine (hopefully to the bottom) while detergent oil is designed to keep the dirty oil in suspension to be collected in an oil filter. Now, if your "modern" car had no oil filter how often would you change the oil and what would you do to get ride of the dirty oil residue on the walls etc on the inside of the engine? Regardless of what type of oil you use, just draining the oil out of a T engine, year after year, will not get all the dirt out, and that is why it is recommended to drop the inspection pan and clean out what ever is there regardless of what oil you use. Consider the oil that you are able to drain out of the engine to be better than what is left inside.
The past is a great place and I don't want to erase it or to regret it, but I don't want to be its prisoner either.
Mick Jagger
Mick Jagger
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