New gasoline shut off valve sticking?

[bobt]

I bought a fuel shut off valve that mounts to the carb from Eckler's so I don't have to crawl under my 1915 touring to turn the gas off. The problem I'm having is the valve is getting harder and harder to turn. I now have to use pliers to shut the valve. Is anybody else having this problem or do I have a defective valve? I took it off and polished the guts and put some grease on it and it worked GREAT for three days and now its seizing up again. HELP! bobt

[George Mills]

I like the way that they look and the way that they work...but as you have found out, they do leave something to be desired after a while.

I've had similar experience with that valve and in one car, the solution was really quite simple...lift UP while you turn the handle and then press DOWN when you get it where you want it. You don't feel it move up and down, but it apparently does just enough.

That would say to me the lower spring is too strong causing too much friction and while I have thought of annealing one a bit and trying again, have never gotten around to it. The lift/turn/press down works too easy...lol

Try it, may or may not work for you...at least it saves plier marks...

[RajoRacer]

There are 2 styles currently available - sounds as though you have the "less expensive" version which are known for the issue you are dealing with - the other "more expensive" one is actually designed after the Ford original style petcock which the "spring loading" works better the way George described - ever so slightly lift up while turning then gently push down to prevent any weeping.

[ABoer]

I use this one , I know it is not Original , but it works for me .
Toon

[Scott_Conger]

Well, polishing is really the one thing you don't want to do. There are now no micro-grooves for any lubricant to hide in and help you.

As Steve Tomaso stated above, I too have found that lifting slightly will compress the tension spring on the underside and the valve can be moved readily.

[Steve Jelf]

I had the less expensive one and got rid of it because I needed a wrench to turn it, and I didn't care for the modern look. Rather than replace it with the costly one, I adopted an idea I saw on a TT and applied it to both my T's. My carburetors now look stock and I don't have to crawl underneath to shut off the gas.

http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG106.html

[CudaMan]

I take mine apart every month or so and lube it with EZ Turn, you can get it from the vendors.

[Allan]

Are these gizmos fitted because the carburetor leaks?

Allan from down under.

[JEC]

I lube cone valves with an aviation product called fuel lube.

[Scott_Conger]

In my case, they are fitted because the carb MIGHT leak (like my '13 which after 5 years of drip-free driving decided to piddle 8+ gallons into the rental space it was living in for a couple of years). I'm sure I was NOT popular there for a couple of weeks, though no one said anything. All my cars now have a shut-off that can be gotten to from under the hood. With a gravity feed system, you just never know...

[Joe Reid]

Modern gas has no lubricating properties. On all of the shut offs if you lift it up and turn it it moves easier. They are brass on brass and a tapered shaft. A little WD40 and a pair of pliers help. Remember to lift up and turn.

[Chad_Marcheese]

Take it apart and use the aviation EZ Turn lubricant sold by the vendors. I have found sometimes it takes repeated applications before it seems to settle in a bit.

The new fuel today with its alcohol additives washes alot of the lube out of the fittings. I buy supposed non ethonal fuel for the T and lawn equipment which seems to help, but those brass on brass valves after a while will still stick. I have found after 2-3 applications of EZ Turn, it seems to last much longer now.

I have no issues taking the valve apart to lube them, the issue is, the tank usually needs to be drained on the doodlebug. My T pickup has a 1/4 turn at the carb but the tank shut off is a modern Ford 9N replacement sediment bowl with a round turn valve.

A tube of EZ turn will probably last you a lifetime.

[joe.wal]

Even across the ocean the less expensive one needs a plier to be turned - and mine does leak from the top also.
Having found the trick earlier on this forum I too do lift it from time to time.
As I do always some checks before driving the shut off valve is just one step more - not really a problem.

[otrcman]

I had the "tight valve" problem with my light airplane. A fellow older and more experienced than I suggested adding a bit of (I won't say what type) oil to my fuel. The oil left just a bit of a coating on the intake & exhaust valve stems to prevent the ever-present sticky valve problem, and pretty much fixed the sticky fuel cock problem to boot.

Just to avoid starting yet another MMO debate, I'll say the I eventually settled on motorcycle two-stroke oil. It worked about the same as the other stuff, but took less oil per gallon for the same result.

About an ounce per gallon added to the fuel forever ended both sticky valves and sticky fuel cock. And no, I never saw any residue on my spark plugs.

[hollanbl]

Anthonie,

I like your fuel shut off ball valve configuration. I do have a couple of questions. Is the banjo bolt that threads into the carburetor a straight thread. All the ones I have ever seen are straight threads with the two crush washers that make the seal. Did you rethread the carburetor to accept straight threads. I thought the carburetor has 1/4 pipe threads that make the seal. I am a new member here and I am having a little problem with gas seeping out of the standard shut off valve. I want to replace it with a ball valve. Your setup looks very nice. Thanks! Brad Hollan

[CudaMan]

I use EZ turn like Chad says. I have to disassemble the valve and re-apply EZ turn every month or so, no big deal.

[Adam]

A little Marvel Mystery Oil in the gasoline definitely could keep fuel valves from sticking...

I’m not a fan of any of the grease type fuel valve lubricants. As a matter of fact, I actually think it is a poor choice in a non-pressure fuel system. If any bit of it gets loose and goes down stream it can plug a fuel line, slow down flow, cause float valve issues. I have a suspicion that grose-jets are a bit more sensitive to it also.

[DanTreace]

Similar experiences. Result of today’s gasoline formulations , ethanol, drying additives, etc. After while the shutoff can get tougher to turn.

So, as noted, just pull up on handle, against spring, spray a shot of Kroil oil, and release. Open and close a few times and good for a couple of months . Just like oiling other moving parts on your Ford

[TWrenn]

Bite the bullet and get one of these from Langs. Near as I know, they're about the only source or them.
I put one on all my T's. and was glad. They don't stick, and so far, don't leak. I will admit, one is a bit stiff, but
I never needed a tool for it. It has since gone bye-bye when I sold the car though!

https://www.modeltford.com/item/6055.aspx

[AndreFordT]

Every other tank fill up I add 1/2 liter of two stroke oil to the tank.
I never had a stuck shut off valve and I lubricate the intake valves at the same time.
Just use the cheapest two stroke oil I can find.

Just my way.

Andre
Belgium

[Bill Robinson]

This works for me. Pretty easy, too.

[RajoRacer]

That tool would work much better IF you could slightly pull upward as you turn !

[Scott_Conger]

Steve

isn't THAT the truth. The only thing I can seem to accomplish with those is to unwittingly and permanently jam the petcocks closed so that oil neither drips nor flows.

[Novice]

A electric valve at the gas tank will eliminate the problem and be out of sight on pre 26 models and eliminate the need to raise the hood every time You start the car reducing wear on the hood hinges and catches. The vendors sell both 6 & 12 volt valves. Both of my Ts have the cheap brass valves that get hard to turn when cold. they turn fine after they warm's up. It amazing how much gas can flow out of a model T gravity fuel tank in a short period of time when the float sticks. "Ax Me how I know"

[jerry knouse]

Amazon sells a petcock socket set that fits 1/4 drive. Great little tool

[TRDxB2]

A possibility. A min ball valve with viton seals. ($4.11 + shipping) If the handle doesn't satisfy you desired vintage look, I'm sure you could fabricate one from your broken one. This company has several styles / sizes Go to their site and click on the PDF - datasheet on this page to see whats availabe
https://blackhawksupply.com/products/mi ... ball-valve

[Scott_Conger]

Frank

these are an excellent choice and when properly fitted, allow you to remove the carb for servicing without losing a bunch of gas. While like most, I have carb-mounted valves and frankly while they stop the risk of fire and dripping, it is dumb to have them directly attached to the carb. My next project this spring is to fit a very similar valve as you have pictured, to my driver, though it will be one with a smaller handle. This really is the way to go...

[Steve Jelf]

I still prefer this. The sediment bulb shutoff works for me.

[TRDxB2]

Frank

these are an excellent choice and when properly fitted, allow you to remove the carb for servicing without losing a bunch of gas. While like most, I have carb-mounted valves and frankly while they stop the risk of fire and dripping, it is dumb to have them directly attached to the carb. My next project this spring is to fit a very similar valve as you have pictured, to my driver, though it will be one with a smaller handle. This really is the way to go...

Scott that valve even comes in several handle variations even just a screw to turn it on/off. I also played with this concept to replace the sediment bulb - thinking that when I cleared some sediment out of the tank I would replace the filter. The filter is a high flow K&N filter (not a lawn mower one), screen mesh is very similar to stock brass screen in size and mesh. It is also a ball valve with viton seals so it will not be effected by Ethanol gas . The fitting for the fuel line may vary based on what the fuel line has