Im rebuilding a starter and bendix for the speedster project. I have a few questions about the bendix assembly. There is a threaded ring on the end of the bendix, What holds it on.? I looked at several old bendix that I have, and I see no keeper on any of them. I assume the holes in the side of the ring are for a spanner of some kind to remove it, or oil holes. ?? Does it just screw on and then that is it... ? The other question is about the part #5021-1/2. It is the part that usually cracks on the bendix. How do you remove and replace it. I see the vendors sell that piece. It appears to fit into a groove. Anyone have a technique to remove and replace it. Also is the reproduction part any good. That part takes a lot of abuse. I have always had a good used bendix to use in the past. So I have never had to repair one before.
When I get the starter installed and then install and time the Columbo magneto, the speedster project is ready to start ....
I have attached a pic borrowed from Martin. It has the parts I am asking about circled in red. Thanks Martin, your parts diagrams are a real asset for us, when we have questions.
Bendix assembly questions
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Topic author - Posts: 1287
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:13 pm
- First Name: Donnie
- Last Name: Brown
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1927 Sport Touring, 1919 Speedster, 1914 Speedster, Wards tractor conversion, non starter 1926 Improved Touring
- Location: Hills of Arkansas
- MTFCA Number: 49575
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- Posts: 86
- Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2019 11:18 pm
- First Name: Terry
- Last Name: Loftus
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 26 Speedster
- Location: Phoenix, AZ
- MTFCA Number: 7379
- MTFCA Life Member: YES
Re: Bendix assembly questions
Hello Donnie,
First I have really enjoyed your Steven's Catalog. Thank you for doing that project.
OK, The collar you have circled above PN 5021G just unscrews from the shaft above PN 5025. It is RH thread so it unscrews in the normal direction.
I put a very short (I believe #4) sheet metal screw into one or both holes in the collar and then grip the collar and screw(s) with vise grips that effectively makes a spanner wrench. I also put a bolt in the bendix spring bolt hole on the shaft and clamp that in a vise to keep the shaft from turning when unscrewing the collar or replacing the collar.
The collar 5021-1/2. I just cut it off with a hack saw. To replace it, you just tap the metal between the two slots into the grove of the shaft on both sides.
Now, what you did not ask about. You should also replace 5021PS as well. That pin may be stuck in the counter weight of the gear 5021G and the spring has almost certainly lost all of its strength. Make certain the pin moves freely in the hole in the counter weight. I do not remember the size but as I recall the hole is a number drill size not a fractional size. You should be able to measure the pin to get a starting drill bit size to clean out the hole.
Finally, the two holes in the collar also serve the purpose of staking the shaft to the collar. I you look into the end of the collar you should be able to see that. I honestly do not re-stake them on reassembly, I have had very good success using locktite and just making sure the collar is very well tightened using the screw and vise grip spanner wrench trick.
I hope this helps,
Terry
First I have really enjoyed your Steven's Catalog. Thank you for doing that project.
OK, The collar you have circled above PN 5021G just unscrews from the shaft above PN 5025. It is RH thread so it unscrews in the normal direction.
I put a very short (I believe #4) sheet metal screw into one or both holes in the collar and then grip the collar and screw(s) with vise grips that effectively makes a spanner wrench. I also put a bolt in the bendix spring bolt hole on the shaft and clamp that in a vise to keep the shaft from turning when unscrewing the collar or replacing the collar.
The collar 5021-1/2. I just cut it off with a hack saw. To replace it, you just tap the metal between the two slots into the grove of the shaft on both sides.
Now, what you did not ask about. You should also replace 5021PS as well. That pin may be stuck in the counter weight of the gear 5021G and the spring has almost certainly lost all of its strength. Make certain the pin moves freely in the hole in the counter weight. I do not remember the size but as I recall the hole is a number drill size not a fractional size. You should be able to measure the pin to get a starting drill bit size to clean out the hole.
Finally, the two holes in the collar also serve the purpose of staking the shaft to the collar. I you look into the end of the collar you should be able to see that. I honestly do not re-stake them on reassembly, I have had very good success using locktite and just making sure the collar is very well tightened using the screw and vise grip spanner wrench trick.
I hope this helps,
Terry
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- Posts: 5259
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
- First Name: Allan
- Last Name: Bennett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
- Location: Gawler, Australia
Re: Bendix assembly questions
Terry has nailed it for you. When I need remove the sleeve, I use a couple of bullet head nails the same size as the two holes in the sleeve.I cut these off just behind the head and insert them in the holes. The a good pair of channel locks can be used,the nail heads taking the strain, and the collar is wound off. You are trying to over-ride stakings which are there to stop it coming off, so the initial load will need to be strong.
I have never been confident with not re-staking to hold the sleeve in place. The staking is easy and it puts my mind at rest. Obviously, others have a different opinion on this.
Hope this helps, Allan from down under.
I have never been confident with not re-staking to hold the sleeve in place. The staking is easy and it puts my mind at rest. Obviously, others have a different opinion on this.
Hope this helps, Allan from down under.
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- First Name: Dan
- Last Name: Treace
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Re: Bendix assembly questions
The best way is always the simplest. The attics of the world are cluttered up with complicated failures. Henry Ford
Don’t find fault, find a remedy; anybody can complain. Henry Ford
Don’t find fault, find a remedy; anybody can complain. Henry Ford
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Topic author - Posts: 1287
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:13 pm
- First Name: Donnie
- Last Name: Brown
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1927 Sport Touring, 1919 Speedster, 1914 Speedster, Wards tractor conversion, non starter 1926 Improved Touring
- Location: Hills of Arkansas
- MTFCA Number: 49575
Re: Bendix assembly questions
Thanks, That pretty much answers what I needed to know. Time to get back to the shop and see what I need to order for the bendix repair.
Have fun and be safe ........
Have fun and be safe ........