MTFCA Forum

Is it practical, advisable or even possible to place a Model T on a 2-post lift?

Don, as I researched both 2-post and 4-post, the answer really isn't clear cut.

Certainly it's a personal choice for one.
But you also have to probably adapt it somewhat to fit under that tiny little frame.
Then my concern was for all that 3-point suspension just "hanging there".

Then there's the concern for stability of ONLY two posts. You HAVE to have it securely mounted to the floor. Mine, just "sits" there.
Frankly, I am so so glad I got the 4-poster. The ramps really do not pose that much of a problem.
And, I can put my F150 on it as well as other cars, I even adapted the flanges to hold my CubCadet SubCompact Tractor!
I love it!

Just my opinion.

RustyFords wrote: ↑

Wed Nov 11, 2020 8:12 am

Is it practical, advisable or even possible to place a Model T on a 2-post lift?

Yes.

Jeffrey...I see you use 4x4s as a method to support the suspension. Excellent idea. That looks like one hefty, expensive lift!!

TWrenn wrote: ↑

Wed Nov 11, 2020 10:14 am

Jeffrey...I see you use 4x4s as a method to support the suspension. Excellent idea. That looks like one hefty, expensive lift!!

They are 4x4 PSL posts. My best friend is a structural engineer.
Regular 4x4 No.1 didn't cut the math.

The posts are within 16" of each axle, on frame saddles.
Calculated for 1650 lbs, safety factor of 2, 1/4" deflection.
It has to be done correctly, but it can be done.

What is the purpose of the lift? Why not just leave it parked on the floor? For most small jobs under the car, it is high enough for the average man to crawl under even on a creeper, and if you need more space just use jack stands? My impression from the title of this post, was a high lift such as a lube rack in a shop, or possibly lifting up all the way so you could utilize the space underneath for something else, however, the way a T tends to drip oil, not very practical for that purpose.
I am not intending this to be critical, just puzzled as for the use?
Norm

I work on Corvettes on the side. This is a 99 C5R factory race engine here right now.

The lift can hold the T all the way up, and I can park my C3 corvette underneath.

On a two post, checking wheels, brakes, alignment, etc. on the T is easy.

The T is on a friends 4 post right now till I get this restoration finished.

Unless you already have a 2 post lift it wouldn’t make sense to me to have one in your shop just for T use. If you work on newer vehicles lifts are needed but not so much for Model T’s. Using a floor jack and jack stands work OK for the most of us. To each his own on this one.

Jeffery
Thank you for the information. I have a two post hoist which I use often. Right now it has my 67 Mercury M100 project on it(only in Canada)!!
I will pick up a pair of your suggested posts (10 ft should do nicely).
At 71 I REALLY hate crawling around on the floor!

I have a two post for my other cars and with creative use of adapters to clear the running boards use it for my ‘26 RPU. I use high-lift jack stands to add stability/safety for the T pickup - nose-heavy and flexible.
If the T were my only vintage car, I would stick to a jack and regular jack stands.

Norman Kling wrote: ↑

Wed Nov 11, 2020 10:52 am

What is the purpose of the lift? Why not just leave it parked on the floor?

I have other old cars.

Les Schubert wrote: ↑

Wed Nov 11, 2020 2:02 pm

Jeffery
Thank you for the information. I have a two post hoist which I use often. Right now it has my 67 Mercury M100 project on it(only in Canada)!!
I will pick up a pair of your suggested posts (10 ft should do nicely).
At 71 I REALLY hate crawling around on the floor!

10' is what I bought. The load was calculated for a touring. You could use 4x6, and it would clear fine, for a heavier car.
I bought the frame saddles for my truck, and they hold a 4x nice, but not tight.
You will find you need a small spacer under the rear to lift level. 3/4" works fine.
Just make sure the lift points are within 16" of the axles, and your golden. The math changes dramatically further away from load.

Chuck Regan wrote: ↑

Wed Nov 11, 2020 2:16 pm

I have a two post for my other cars and with creative use of adapters to clear the running boards use it for my ‘26 RPU. I use high-lift jack stands to add stability/safety for the T pickup - nose-heavy and flexible.
If the T were my only vintage car, I would stick to a jack and regular jack stands.

That was my intent, but with Ruxstell levers and RM Brake rods and other widgets, I wasnt happy with pad extensions. This just works well.
Also safer in quake country.
My footings are 4' deep.

My Challenger lift has factory risers that work great on my T's. Very stable.

IBEW? A Member?

Member for 36 years, retired now. Operated hydro dams.

kelly mt wrote: ↑

Wed Nov 11, 2020 3:31 pm

Member for 36 years, retired now. Operated hydro dams.

Local 441 , 40 years, retired. Inside wireman.

I struggled with the decision several years ago. I did ok without a lift for the T's but I purchased a 1927 Marmon. I realized that it would be difficult if not impossible to do the maintenance on the Marmon. The Marmon did not seem safe on a two post lift because of the riser that would be necessary to clear the very wide running boards to get to the frame and the weight of the car. I opted for a Benpac four post 9K extra long and extra wide lift. Very pleased and I can service all our cars and my work van and 2500 Dodge pick up. Tires and brakes are no problem because I follow front to back rotation and I lift with jacks using the movable cross members on the lift. I guess it is what ever you feel safe with. Dick C.

I decided on the four post lift because it can be moved around the shop if needed since,it,does not need to be anchored to the floor and I too was concerned about using a two post lift with my larger cars..

I have and work on automotive hoists for 40 years we have adapters that will fit any car or truck, wood is not good to use
call me if you need adapters I just need model # of your hoist
tom leroux
714-412-3200

TLeroux wrote: ↑

Sun Nov 15, 2020 11:26 am

I just need model # of your hoist.

Thank you very much for the suggestion to use 4x4 beams to support a Model T on the axles using a 2 post lift. Without the beams, the arms on my hoist could not reach the axels because the wheels were in the way. I did not have laminated 4x4s and I did not want to use solid ones in case there was a knot or other defect in the 4x4 that might cause it to snap. I went with 6x6s. I followed the gentleman's advice and located the front lift points under the point where the control arms attach. I added a spacer, with a keyhole cut out of it, so that the weight would rest on the axle, and also so the steering rods would not touch the beam. I added two 2-by spacers at the rear axle and a short spacer on the rear hoist arms as well to level it all out. It is so much easier working underneath with the automobile in the air. Thanks again. This Forum has been so helpful and I am making progress towards getting my unrestored 1919 Center Door Sedan on the road again.

As I am approaching 80 yrs, I wish I had a lift. Garage height limits me. Before reading the posted information, I thought I would want a four post. After reading the above very informative discussion, I think a two post would be my preference. I work on my modern cars as well.
I initially thought this subject would turn into a best oil discussion. It didn't. Just facts. No criticism on opinions.
Art Mirtes

Best oil? Hadacol. There is none finer, not even OILZUM!!

Where I rent for the past five years there is a 2 post lift for my use that I have never used or needed. I suppose I like doing things the hard way. Either that or I am not old.

Russ T Fender wrote: ↑

Wed Nov 11, 2020 4:59 pm

I decided on the four post lift because it can be moved around the shop if needed since,it,does not need to be anchored to the floor and I too was concerned about using a two post lift with my larger cars..

I'm with ya there too Russ. Easy to move around if need be. The ramps aren't that much in the way to work on T's let alone moderns. I have my F150 and T bird on it all the time doing stuff, never a problem. Just feels safer, sturdier. Plus in the winter I "stack 'em", and I'd be real reluctant to do that on only a 2-poster. My opinion is all. What works for one, may not work for the other, that's okay. Makes the world go round.

When I built my garage several years ago, I designed it to have a two post lift. Since then I have gone back and forth on 2 or 4 post. I like the stability and ability to move the 4 post, but I do a lot of wheel work like suspension and brakes and I didn't know if I wanted to deal with the ramps. Still going back and forth. Thanks for your opinions and tips. Hoping it will be my Christmas gift to myself this year.

I have a 4 post hoist with the jack that runs down the centre works great but will cost an extra 4 to 6 hundred less for you guys in the US.

When I bought my Bendpac two post lift I ordered the extenders to use when lifting cars with high frame to ground clearance. No wood necessary. https://store.bendpak.com/tall-adapters/

Why did I decide on a two post lift? Many reasons. Removing wheels, axles, springs, ETC. that you can't do with your wheels raising your car on a four post lift. https://store.bendpak.com/car-lifts/?ca ... t_limit=24

Chris, it is not that hard to pull wheels, and in the case of two different cars, I've had the complete front axle and steering gear off them while on my 4 poster. In fact, with the ramps there to use for jacking and support, I would say the 4 poster made it easier than fighting with the cars axle and wheels hanging in the air.

TWrenn wrote: ↑

Fri Jul 02, 2021 6:46 pm

Chris, it is not that hard to pull wheels, and in the case of two different cars, I've had the complete front axle and steering gear off them while on my 4 poster. In fact, with the ramps there to use for jacking and support, I would say the 4 poster made it easier than fighting with the cars axle and wheels hanging in the air.

You are welcome to do things the hard way. When I want to remove a front or rear axle it is far easier to do it on a two post rather than a four post. If you need to use a jack on your four post you might as well not have a lift.

If you are concerned about scratching paint on the frame and don't want to put a few rags on it you can use these. https://store.bendpak.com/frame-cradle-pads/

Chris Haynes wrote: ↑

Fri Jul 02, 2021 7:09 pm

If you are concerned about scratching paint on the frame and don't want to put a few rags on it you can use these. https://store.bendpak.com/frame-cradle-pads/

How tall are those?

big2bird wrote: ↑

Sun Jul 04, 2021 10:02 pm

Chris Haynes wrote: ↑

Fri Jul 02, 2021 7:09 pm

If you are concerned about scratching paint on the frame and don't want to put a few rags on it you can use these. https://store.bendpak.com/frame-cradle-pads/

How tall are those?

When installed an inch or so.

I've had a 4 post WORTH chain lift for over 20 years. My new one is extra length with extra width ramps. I can raise my dually or a model T without moving the ramps. With a little ingenuity, I can also raise a golf cart or gator. I have 4 tall jack stands made for lift work. Raise the vehicle, place the stands, lower the lift some, and easily do wheel or brake work. I only needed a new lift because I sold my place with the old one and built a new shop. Cable lifts recommend changing cables every few years. Once installed, chain life never needed anything!

Chris Haynes wrote: ↑

Mon Jul 05, 2021 1:47 am

big2bird wrote: ↑

Sun Jul 04, 2021 10:02 pm

Chris Haynes wrote: ↑

Fri Jul 02, 2021 7:09 pm

If you are concerned about scratching paint on the frame and don't want to put a few rags on it you can use these. https://store.bendpak.com/frame-cradle-pads/

How tall are those?

When installed an inch or so.

Huh?