MTFCA Forum

I am trying to remove the headight rims on my 24 touring because I suspect burned out bulbs. I have only one beam on one side while the other side is neither beam. Possibly the one side with no beam could be a ground issue, however that should not be the case with the side with one beam. I have replaced the reflectors and installed new sockets and bulbs. Also have tested contacts on ends of plugs & power at both contacts. Also new rope seals to keep dust out of lights. I do have the rim tool & applying inward pressure & turning counter clockwise should remove it. Has anyone experienced this problem? Thank you!

Has anyone experienced this problem?

Everyone has experienced this problem. Put a carpet or foam pad on the floor to catch the lens when it suddenly pops loose. Try leaning in with a hip against the rim as you turn it. I'm guessing your rim tool is the squared-C type. I made one of these: https://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG112.html

The parts dealers used to sell these. I don't know if they still do.

It is almost impossible to get the rims off by myself. Get a helper, 4 hands will do the job. push in the rim at each rivet location and twist counterclockwise all at the same time and it will come off. But if you only push at 2 rivets at a time it isnt going to budge

I’ve used a small screwdriver and pried at 2 rivet locations to release the rim. If you do this carefully you won’t even scratch the paint.

Yep! They're a BEEEAHTCH!!

Using the rim tool is helpful IMO. Wrap rim with a rag first to give more friction contact for the rivet head recesses in the tool.


Then push, very hard, using your hip or gut, against the tool, and at same time twist the tool, you have to compress the bucket spring against the reflector to allow the bayonet clips on the bucket to release the rivet tangs on the rim.



Then the rim is loose and can be removed.

Had the best luck using a GOOD headlight rim band wrench in the right hand and using my thigh to push in the RIM, then using the palm of my left hand to bump it on along until it relents. Sometimes those old and rusty rim springs can be a (deleted), also make sure you've put Kroil (or something equivalent) along the bucket to rim junction... rust and/or corrosion is not your friend.

I second the idea of using a little penetrating oil around the rim and let it sit a bit. Push in on the rim all the way around and make sure you can move it in a bit. Then apply pressure from hands, knees, gut, whatever and turn. All the other advice is good - I might add that a large strap wrench will sometimes do the job as well. The metal is thin so protect it, whatever tool you use.

These were made by a couple of our forum members a few years back. Work great!!!!

You didn't mention wether or not the rims are original or repros - I've seen repros that had too long of rivets used and can cause a major headache for both installation & removal. I use the "rubber mat on the floor" procedure myself.

So what did the Ford dealerships use to remove the rims? Probably like was mentioned using four hands.

The trick is getting the rim pushed in EVENLY. If that doesn’t happen you won’t move it. WD-40 helps too.

Look in the Service Bulletins. You will find the tool like I posted and later the tool Dan T showed.
Also the Ford Owner and Dealer magazine had some great ideas for how to things on the T.
Remember, someone 100 years ago was trying to figure out how to do this stuff too. And with a lot less than what we have now. Dan

You need at least 2 guys and 4 hands, and someone to be present to heckle...

Take the stubborn headlight off the car....

Place the headlight bucket down, lens up in a folded and fluffed up moving blanket. 1rst guy pushes down on the headlight bezel rim and turns counter clockwise. 2nd guy "tries" to keep the headlight bucket from turning by holding bucket and bucket mount arm.
If this fails, turn the headlight over and go lens down. Repeat procedure as above. But be leary of breaking the glass face down.
Gentle taps on the bezel at the bezel pins counter clockwise may help too.

Good luck and let me know how it goes...
-Dan

Harvey Bergstrom

"I have replaced the reflectors and installed new sockets and bulbs. Also new rope seals to keep dust out of lights."

i'm confused. How did you replace the reflectors, sockets, and bulbs, with the lenses in place?

I use something you probably don’t have. It’s a strap type filter remover. This is without a doubt the best tool to use on stubborn headlamp rims. Grips evenly and works like a charm. I usually put a rag under the metal section. The free end of the belt slips into a slot that’s under the square drive hole and cranks it tight. The more it tightens the harder it cranks the rim.

I haven't done a lot of headlights, but here was my very simple method.

Remove the headlights from the car.
Place a neoprene mat on the floor (I used one of those mats you use to protect your fenders while leaning into the engine bay of your muscle car).
Put the headlight face down on the mat.
Use your body weight to push down on the back of the headlight housing while you twist it.
The mat grips the rim and poof! off it comes.

My stated method with a neoprene mat substituted out for the moving blanket is killer! The neoprene mat may negate the need for the 2nd guy for help. Good idea!!

With my old clunkers, I tap the rim with a soft rubber mallet to be certain it isn't rusted to the bucket. Or at least negotiable.
Set the lamp (lens down) on a tall vinyl covered stool, PUSH and twist it unlocked.
I like! I bet a little WD or your favorite spray would help a bunch!
Ooh, a rubber mat. Yeah! If it isn't on the floor.

The buckets have been restored so they were sanded and repainted and rims are new ones which went on relatively easily.
I like Dan Hatch’s post on a great homemade tool
that surpasses the ones that the venders sell. I have one of those. I just need two more hands and I will be able to get the job done. Thank you all for the great thoughts!

Bob Solak wrote: ↑

Fri Aug 25, 2023 5:44 pm

I haven't done a lot of headlights, but here was my very simple method.

Remove the headlights from the car.
Place a neoprene mat on the floor (I used one of those mats you use to protect your fenders while leaning into the engine bay of your muscle car).
Put the headlight face down on the mat.
Use your body weight to push down on the back of the headlight housing while you twist it.
The mat grips the rim and poof! off it comes.

This is how I have been doing it for years if they are being stubborn, I use a piece of carpet. Taking them off also is a good time to clean the ground connecting.

If those are new rims, chances are the rivets are a bit too long thus preventing the removal. The tool that surrounds the rim is the best second to placing the headlight on a rubber mat & using your body weight. You might still have a devil of a time if the rivets are too long and it might involve some damage to your freshly restored bucket !

RajoRacer wrote: ↑

Sat Aug 26, 2023 11:51 am

If those are new rims, chances are the rivets are a bit too long thus preventing the removal.

That was exactly the problem I had the first time I removed the rims. I shortened the rivets with a Dremel tool and they come off much easier now.

I have a "26-'27 headlight bucket that has these small half moon tabs that stick out in the travel arc of the headlight bezel pins. The tabs prevented the bezel pins from seating properly. As a result I lost an original blue lens from the bezel working loose.
I was blasting down the road at 35 mph when the bezel popped off, and glass shattered everywhere. The bezel ring rolled down an embankment from the road. I got my bezel back from a swamp...
I've since bent the half moon tabs in, and the headlight glass lens now stays secure. Aftermarket replacement bucket???

I had trouble getting the rim on my bucket. I got this strap wrench at Home Depot, Husky brand. Super soft, I just got the car painted. On and off with just a pop. It has a long strap, 34 or so inches. I think it was $25 or so.





Rich

I made mine out of wood. The blocks catch each rivet. You simply push and hold some pressure on the base, and twist it, and it releases the rim on my 1915 every time, with no scratches or damage.

Dan Hatch wrote: ↑

Fri Aug 25, 2023 10:40 am

These were made by a couple of our forum members a few years back. Work great!!!!
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Yes they work great but a bear to make. Time and materials made making many for sale not profitable for what people would pay for one. We made a few and just gave them away to friends. You were one of the lucky ones!