MTFCA Forum

So Ive ordered a radiator from Brassworks and Ill probably cut the nuts off to get the old one off the car.
My question is which hardware to use going back up? the car is a 1913 but I like the looks of the newer thimble design. (1920's)

Simple plate, spring, stud, leather pad, nut & cotter pin. Thimbles won't work with a brass radiator !

RajoRacer wrote: ↑

Thu Feb 22, 2024 7:36 pm

Simple plate, spring, stud, leather pad, nut & cotter pin. Thimbles won't work with a brass radiator !

that answers that. thank you

Martyn Vowell,
Vincent needs your 1909-1916 radiator attachment diagram!

: ^ )

KWTownsend wrote: ↑

Fri Feb 23, 2024 12:03 am

Martyn Vowell,
Vincent needs your 1909-1916 radiator attachment diagram!

: ^ )

The drawing by Martyn is right at Vincent’s fingertips.

Top of the Forum page, far right corner, click on ‘Gallery’, the click on ‘Vowell Art’, the select the file for ‘Radiator’, all the drawings are there to follow.

Or from MTFCA Home page, Open these links: Resources-Drawings-Radiators

https://www.mtfca.com/phpBB3/app.php/gallery/image/94

jab35 wrote: ↑

Fri Feb 23, 2024 8:33 am

Or from MTFCA Home page, Open these links: Resources-Drawings-Radiators

https://www.mtfca.com/phpBB3/app.php/gallery/image/94

very nice, the longer plate is key. I might not have had to cut the studs off if it was like that but 110 years....
Thank you

I seem to recall that while mentally it sounds like a good idea...you can't do it!

I know, I tried and for some reason, even after some filing here and there, the hood would just not sit well. Struggled for hours...gave up...went back to leather pads and whoosh...all done perfect hood fit...fore and aft!

Good luck

George Mills wrote: ↑

Fri Feb 23, 2024 6:10 pm

I seem to recall that while mentally it sounds like a good idea...you can't do it!

I know, I tried and for some reason, even after some filing here and there, the hood would just not sit well. Struggled for hours...gave up...went back to leather pads and whoosh...all done perfect hood fit...fore and aft!

Good luck

THANKS GEORGE, I'LL GO BACK TOGETHER WITH THE ORIGINAL DESIGN. I DO WANT TO INSURE THAT ITS ISOLATING AS INTENDED AND EASY TO REMOVE. THE 110 YEAR OLD SYSTEM WAS NEITHER.

The longer plate in the frame rail is a good idea. It will not turn when assembling the rest. I usually put the spring in the frame rail, put the stud through it and screw it into the plate, then fit the split pin.Then I wind the stud out until it binds the pin on the bottom of the plate. This gives you maximum length of stud when fitting the rest of the assembly. I also use insertion rubber instead of leather because leather dries out, shrinks and hardens.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.

Yes Allan I do believe your advice is even more correct. In my case the decision was made late at night, I just took a full hide belt from the closet and 'crafted' the pads to fit. Had I thought it through, or now that I hear your way, I too would have gone with EPDM Rubber. (The flat roof stuff...it is impervious to most anything when it comes to 'aging' as long as UV is not your culprit)

George Mills wrote: ↑

Sat Feb 24, 2024 11:26 am

Yes Allan I do believe your advice is even more correct. In my case the decision was made late at night, I just took a full hide belt from the closet and 'crafted' the pads to fit. Had I thought it through, or now that I hear your way, I too would have gone with EPDM Rubber. (The flat roof stuff...it is impervious to most anything when it comes to 'aging' as long as UV is not your culprit)

Yes. I was going to ask if we were substituting rubber for leather

Vincent an easy fix any time you lift the radiator. Not so for your belt though!
Allan from down under.