MTFCA Forum

Along the lines of the similar topic in the "T" area of the forum, share what you've done with your A,B,C,F,K,N,R,S,SR Ford this year. Personally, I have done nothing, , so let's depend on you all to contribute!

Thanks!!

Been working on my model F. Had the front connecting rod rebabbited and now reassembling everything for a test run. Waiting for model S engine from rebuilder who is fitting a new crankshaft. Hope to have both in Minnesota this summer.

Been driving the 07 K daily, getting ready for the ABC tour in Pennsylvania in a week and a half.

Just back from town this morning.

I have been working on the connecting rods for the Model S Roadster. I am using Model T aluminum pistons, so the piston pin is clamped in the rod’s top, like a Model T.

The threads at the top of the rod are standard 3/8x24, so the original bolts that adjusted the clearance in the piston pin bushing can be replaced with sturdier Model T pin clamping bolts. When the pin is clamped into the rods, the bolt can be locked into the rod with a cotter pin, again like a Model T.

The original big end rod bearing caps were held in place and adjusted with a single bolt. The bolt’s thread is not conventional, instead it is 3/8x20. The nuts were originally split nuts that were locked in place by smashing the nut’s flap flat with a hammer and punch, to crimping the nut on to the bolt. For good measure (or maybe just to keep the nut from falling off the bolt if it became loose), Ford drilled the end of the bolt for a cotter pin. Rather than use the original style nut, I made new castle nuts threaded 3/8x20 and tall enough that they can be captured by a cotter, again similar to Model T rod nuts.

Finally, the rods and pistons were balanced so they all weighed the same. They are now ready to be assembled into the cylinder jugs and the jugs bolted to the crankcase.

The photo shows a rod with the new bolt and nut:

TrentB wrote: ↑

Fri May 09, 2025 6:26 am

Rather than use the original style nut, I made new castle nuts threaded 3/8x20 and tall enough that they can be captured by a cotter, again similar to Model T rod nuts.


The photo shows a rod with the new bolt and nut:

Very nice work!
I know you must have checked this, but I'm hoping that the extended nut will clear the crankcase and camshaft.

In my case, the wristpin floats within the piston & rod, (Model T pistons also). It has aluminum caps in the ends to prevent rubbing on the cylinder walls. I was a bit dubious about the arrangement, but was assured by the rebuilder, who had a lifetime on brass era engine rebuilding under his belt, that it would be fine. So far, it has been.

Jerry VanOoteghem wrote: ↑

Fri May 09, 2025 10:25 am

In my case, the wristpin floats within the piston & rod, (Model T pistons also). It has aluminum caps in the ends to prevent rubbing on the cylinder walls. I was a bit dubious about the arrangement, but was assured by the rebuilder, who had a lifetime on brass era engine rebuilding under his belt, that it would be fine. So far, it has been.

Jerry, my airplane engine, designed in the 1940’s, in production well into the 1960’s, and replacement cylinders and pistons still in production, has floating wrist pins with aluminum plugs in the pistons to keep the pins off the cylinder walls. If I’m not mistaken, that’s still common practice for most aircraft piston engines still today.

mbowen wrote: ↑

Sat May 10, 2025 7:33 pm

Jerry VanOoteghem wrote: ↑

Fri May 09, 2025 10:25 am

In my case, the wristpin floats within the piston & rod, (Model T pistons also). It has aluminum caps in the ends to prevent rubbing on the cylinder walls. I was a bit dubious about the arrangement, but was assured by the rebuilder, who had a lifetime on brass era engine rebuilding under his belt, that it would be fine. So far, it has been.

Jerry, my airplane engine, designed in the 1940’s, in production well into the 1960’s, and replacement cylinders and pistons still in production, has floating wrist pins with aluminum plugs in the pistons to keep the pins off the cylinder walls. If I’m not mistaken, that’s still common practice for most aircraft piston engines still today.

Thanks Miles! If it's good enough for aviation...

Had the B, F, N and K out for the local Model T club visit last weekend. Thank you Jeff Fries for helping getting them out and somewhat shined up.

Made a vanity license plate for my model F.

Robert Kiefaber wrote: ↑

Tue May 13, 2025 12:24 am

Made a vanity license plate for my model F.
IMG_2189.jpeg

Bob,

I like that F! Thanks for posting!

Working on restoring the steering column of my 1908 S Roadster I found this maker’s ID stamp in the flange that bolts to the firewall.
I have seen this on NRS transmission parts, and on the quadrant and steering wheel spider on pre-1915 Model Ts, but this is the first time I have seen it in this location on an NRS Ford.

My S Roadster has the same mark on the steering column.

Hmmmm…

I am wondering if this was an S Roadster thing, or a 1908 NRS steering column thing?

Our 1907 Model N has this also.

I just reviewed the 1906-07 Canadian import ledgers for Ford K and N. Both list Holley Bros. as the maker of “steering gear” including throttle and lead (spark) levers. My guess is Holley initially made the steering columns, but at some point Dodge took over that order, or contributed too (by 1908, several thousand N and S/SR may have necessitated more than one manufacturer?).

K import page w/steering gear: N import page: